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ProdigyJKU

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Good be a bad cell in the battery.
It had 12volts so it's not a bad cell. A car battery is made up of 6 cells with 2.1v each. So it one cell goes out it would be down to atleast 10.5v.
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They seem solid. Went to try and start and the voltage dropped below 12 for a 10-20 seconds. Now the voltage is barely over 12. The trickle charger is only a 750mA so it’s barely doing anything. Probably a second attempt at a jump from the tow truck before putting it on the flat bed.
It should show over 13v when charging, even at the low amperage. Sounds like a bad cell to me. They often won’t show up “bad” until something like colder weather puts stress on it. Resting should still be above 12 for sure. I have had several batteries that show 12v and under load, on or more cells won’t pass the appropriate current.
 

Bob Blaylock

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I checked with the multimeter shows 12.7 with nothing on, 12.0 with accessory on mode. I’m trickle charging it while I wait for the tow truck. Thanks for the offer to check though!
That's definitely on the weak side. Without a load, a 12V lead-acid battery should read around 13.2 volts if it's fully charged.

Dropping to an even 12 with only a moderate load is not a good sign either. Compared to running the starter, the rest of the load that your vehicle would impose ought not be very much at all.

How low does it drop when you try to start the vehicle?

Not yet having read this thread past the post to which I am replying, my guess would be the battery.
 

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It had 12volts so it's not a bad cell. A car battery is made up of 6 cells with 2.1v each. So it one cell goes out it would be down to atleast [sic] 10.5v.
Though a lead-acid cell is nominally considered to be 2 volts, it's actually about 2.2 volts, fully charged, with no load.

A good 12-volt lead-acid battery, fully charged, without any load on it should read about 13.2 volts.
 

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It should show over 13v when charging, even at the low amperage.
When charging, the voltage should be more like 14½ to 15 volts.

Less than 14 volts when charging would indicate a problem with the alternator or charging system.
 

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He is using a trickle charger though so putting it on the battery won't show any super high voltages.
 
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ProdigyJKU

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Though a lead-acid cell is nominally considered to be 2 volts, it's actually about 2.2 volts, fully charged, with no load.

A good 12-volt lead-acid battery, fully charged, without any load on it should read about 13.2 volts.
I2.6v is the norm for a 12v auto battery. 6 cells x 2.1v

Google normal car voltage.
 

hemiblas

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I2.6v is the norm for a 12v auto battery. 6 cells x 2.1v

Google normal car voltage.
Sounds like he had Ford come and try to jump start it. If it was the battery it would have started...
 

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I would disconnect the battery all together, wait a few minutes, reconnect and see if that resets something electrically that causing it to not start.
 

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It’s getting towed this time. I will have my own booster pack and beefier charger for the next round. Seems like they will never replace the battery if I get it running properly and the circumstances can’t be replicated. I hate to have it towed, but I suppose that’s what the warranty is for.
 

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That's definitely on the weak side. Without a load, a 12V lead-acid battery should read around 13.2 volts if it's fully charged.

Dropping to an even 12 with only a moderate load is not a good sign either. Compared to running the starter, the rest of the load that your vehicle would impose ought not be very much at all.

How low does it drop when you try to start the vehicle?

Not yet having read this thread past the post to which I am replying, my guess would be the battery.
Though a lead-acid cell is nominally considered to be 2 volts, it's actually about 2.2 volts, fully charged, with no load.

A good 12-volt lead-acid battery, fully charged, without any load on it should read about 13.2 volts.
When charging, the voltage should be more like 14½ to 15 volts.

Less than 14 volts when charging would indicate a problem with the alternator or charging system.
All three of these are wrong and in some cases completely backwards. Please do not pay attention to these above posts.

The OP's battery is displaying zero signs it is damaged, there is a mechanical problem if he is hearing the solenoid click and it won't crank.
 
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Sounds like he had Ford come and try to jump start it. If it was the battery it would have started...
It was actually just a local tow company that had done a 16 hr day. I’m still curious if they did the jump correctly or if the booster they had was juiced up enough after so many jumps that day.
 

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curious to hear what it is. keep us updated. sorry to hear you had to have it towed. always disheartening to see your vehicle leave on the back of a tow truck especially when its so new.
 

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It was actually just a local tow company that had done a 16 hr day. I’m still curious if they did the jump correctly or if the booster they had was juiced up enough after so many jumps that day.
Even so you said your battery was 12.6 or 12.7 which is resting voltage for a good battery....plus theirs in parallel, even if their battery was weak they add up together for current. I agree with everyone else, that it is something else and not the battery.
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