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Raptor911

Raptor911

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A spare is the same as insurance. You don't need it until you do

I'm not concerned, it's not like you use a spare that often. In my 44 years of driving, I've used a spare twice.
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Tex

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Clubs
 
There is a tool called a thread file, which is kind of hard to find, and will do what you need to do, but requires a bit of skill to use.
Nicholson has quality steel, I always pick up broken/dull Nicholson files at secondhand stores for forging into other stuff. Grobet used to make thread files but not anymore, and they were specific to one thread pitch, those would've been the ones to get.

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Th...rds=metric+thread+file&qid=1683477382&sr=8-11
 

swamp2

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Looks like Jeeps recommend about 50% of the vehicle wheels torque for the spare. I'm sure that is fine for Broncos too.
 

Ducati1098

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What’s everyone torquing the rear wheel to? For the Wildtrak the value was around 41 I think the Raptor is higher at 60 something. I set mine to 50 ft/lbs but wondering about others
It used to be 41 in the workshop manual under the tailgate removal instructions, now Ford has removed that and it says 66.
However it also shows 98 in a different section of the workshop manual. None of these are listed as trim specific specifications, so who knows 🤷‍♂️ 50-60 should be perfectly fine.

My 37 has always been torqued to about 45 and I’ve never had any issues.
 

Sparkherd

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Nicholson has quality steel, I always pick up broken/dull Nicholson files at secondhand stores for forging into other stuff. Grobet used to make thread files but not anymore, and they were specific to one thread pitch, those would've been the ones to get.

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Th...rds=metric+thread+file&qid=1683477382&sr=8-11
Well that's one helluva lot easier than when I bought mine; before ye olde interweeb!!!
I've got a metric and SAE thread file. Not sure of the steel quality...I tend not to use them too much.
One thing about the spare carrier bolts; they have a lower torque spec than the lug nuts, since they are pressed into PLASTIC!!!
There's a thread on B6G here somewhere where a guy stripped them out!
No bueno!!!
 

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derichio02

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Well that's one helluva lot easier than when I bought mine; before ye olde interweeb!!!
I've got a metric and SAE thread file. Not sure of the steel quality...I tend not to use them too much.
One thing about the spare carrier bolts; they have a lower torque spec than the lug nuts, since they are pressed into PLASTIC!!!
There's a thread on B6G here somewhere where a guy stripped them out!
No bueno!!!
There is actually a metal bracket behind the plastic tire carrier that the bolts are pressed into and spot welded. But it still remains as you said, not nearly as strong as the hub lugs
 

swamp2

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Spray paint is red neck lock tite.
Ha good one. You could probably even get low or high strength versions depending on if you assemble dry or wet 😆.
 

Tex

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Well that's one helluva lot easier than when I bought mine; before ye olde interweeb!!!
I've got a metric and SAE thread file. Not sure of the steel quality...I tend not to use them too much.
One thing about the spare carrier bolts; they have a lower torque spec than the lug nuts, since they are pressed into PLASTIC!!!
There's a thread on B6G here somewhere where a guy stripped them out!
No bueno!!!
Oh man, I took my OEM tire carrier apart when I upgraded to a bumper mounted, and I was shocked to see the amount of actual steel holding those studs on. It's a thin ring of metal that I could bend by hand. I get the engineering behind it, and it's probably more solid than my YJ's welded steel one (well anything is but that's beside the point), I just expected a lot more to be there is all.
 

Pb.Slinger

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I don’t mind the paint. I noticed installing a wheel lock the other day… since I don’t really break out a torque wrench to stow a spare tire, I view the paint as sort of a thread locker. Not saying it needs to be there, but I just don’t care enough to remove it and it seems somewhat useful.
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