Speaker issue in bronco. Front passenger speakers not receiving power.

[Rl1720]

Thanks to everyone on this forum for your write ups on speaker and sub installs. Helped greatly and i got my setup in with your videos and posts help. Although it was working great now im having an issue and wanted to pick everyones brain to see if you had any ideas how to troubleshoot. I added an extra subwoofer to my system and tapped into the kick panel speakers. I noticed tonight the sub wasnt working and went to investigate. Upon inspection my front passenger dash and kick panel speaker isnt powered with radio on now. Previously they did all work. Only thing i can figure is the sub had some temporary wiring in the back to make sure i had everything working and the positive and negatives might have come in contact back by sub but those are tapped onto the incoming to 6.5" kickpanel. So im assuming i may have blown some sort of fuse for the passenger side front speakers. Does this sound correct or have any ideas of another issue since the driver side and rear speakers work fine.

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[Karl_in_Chicago]

Thanks to everyone on this forum for your write ups on speaker and sub installs. Helped greatly and i got my setup in with your videos and posts help. Although it was working great now im having an issue and wanted to pick everyones brain to see if you had any ideas how to troubleshoot. I added an extra subwoofer to my system and tapped into the kick panel speakers. I noticed tonight the sub wasnt working and went to investigate. Upon inspection my front passenger dash and kick panel speaker isnt powered with radio on now. Previously they did all work. Only thing i can figure is the sub had some temporary wiring in the back to make sure i had everything working and the positive and negatives might have come in contact back by sub but those are tapped onto the incoming to 6.5" kickpanel. So im assuming i may have blown some sort of fuse for the passenger side front speakers. Does this sound correct or have any ideas of another issue since the driver side and rear speakers work fine.

I have a ~50 year old pair of very old school Advent home audio speakers that have fastblow fuses on them but they didn't come that way from Advent (advice from a friend and good advice at that!). Other than those I've never seen fused speakers (not counting powered speakers) and certainly never in factory car audio systems (not saying they don't exist, just never seen them). I think you are on the right track that you have a wiring issue introduced by your work tapping into the kick panel speakers but don't believe it's related to any fuse(s) on the speaker wiring.

Not knowing what you did or how you did it can't offer much more than that. If you were adding an "extra" subwoofer that indicates you have/had a subwoofer already and I'm wondering why you wouldn't have just used that to supply your new/2nd sub. Something to consider once you chase down and resolve your current problem.

Good luck!

 

[Rl1720]

Thanks for response. Just wasnt sure if any fuses were tied to the speakers and might have blown. Didnt think that was case but wanted to cross off. Im going to try disconnecting from kick panel speaker and see what i can figure out. And i used poor choice of words with extra. I just meant i hooked up a powered sub in cargo area and not the typical sub delete location.

 

[Sandbergo]

First, are your speakers connected to an amp? If so check to make sure that channel is sending a signal. If not then let me ask you how you made your sub connection, did you T-tap or scotch lock into the wires in the kick with a high level to low level converter? Or did you just tap the wires and run wires back to an sub amp? I assume you have an amp for the sub because you can’t just tap the speakers and hope the factory system can handle the now halved ohm load. Need more info. I would start with disconnecting the sub from the kick panel connection and see if that remedies it, if not you gotta troubleshoot, but need to give a bit more info, like: are the speakers on the factory system or an aftermarket amp? Components in your sub set up. Etc.
For example I have a t-harness that runs to an audio control lc7 that converts my signal to RCA’s and is sent to a JL Audio XDM 700/5 that powers all my speakers and a sub.

 

[EquusBronsis]

It’s quite possible that the speaker wires were shorted. If that is the case it is possible that a internal fuse was blown in the amplifier output if it has one. This all pure speculation. If this is the case, the amp fuse is probably a micro fuse solder to output board in which case you might be SOL as far as a simple repair.

PS- trouble shoot as OP advised

 

[Rl1720]

Yeah i was able to troubleshoot and figured out the ACM just shut the channel down. disconnecting everything and then wiring back up fixed the issue. Made sure to finish the wiring completely this time. Thanks for the help everyone.

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