Recent content by AZCoyote

That is awesome! It’s DOES feel good to get these things done on your own. Saved money for other mods too!! I agree about the volume levels. Closed window I have a very high quality and loud soundstage. Windows down at 45 mph I can still jam out. Highway speeds forget about but I don’t really...

In theory you could change the rear pod EQ to full range and those 6.5 may give more volume. But with head unit power I’m not sure it will be hugely different. I personally like just enough from the pods for fill.

Mounted right below the steering wheel on the little panel that is so popular. Works great. I think there are some B&O specific threads you can check first. Speakers alone usually only help and little.

Have you modified your harness at all? I disconnected my stock wires at kick and taped them up. I still get sound to dash. I disconnect everything except the front floor speakers. Troubleshoot that. Then connect up the sub and go from there.

i used the old wires to the dash and ran new wires to the kick panels. The 200 handles all that. My amps are on separate power wires so removing the fuse for sub handles that. Balance should be full front when doing auto EQ and DSP setup.

Awesome. Be sure to note post #101. You want a remote power wire from the 200 to the 500. It’s the only dependable way to turn on/off. Without it there are thumps and late signal detections.

i don’t know the kit 19-1 part but you only need a single input pair to the Key 200.4 to run bi-amp. It splits the signal internally to feed both AMP1 and AMP2. If your 19-1 part has a sub line, it will still go to your sub amp. All good there. The front pair off your part should feed the Key...

Turned off factory EQ I believe. I have stock rear pods so left those as it. I set position off in head unit. Still loving the outcome too.

except for bi-amp and time delay right? the timing correction is great. HU has to have its turned off of course. sounds like you just need to play with the gains a little bit

you are very welcome! I was blown away too. Glad you are getting the best out of it. Time for some commutes with it cranked!

CORRECTION. Page 7 post 99. that looks like the correct place. Mine was a little hacky but you will get the idea. kicker EQ doesn’t have to be turned off. Totally preferential. It adds highs and lows. Classic smiley face on a graphic EQ if you remember those. Turning off may sound good...

Also, run your DSP with a cable attached to phone and Bluetooth off. You want uncompressed highest resolution source files. May help with sad sound failures. https://www.kicker.com/test-tones

Ok. Do you have just tweeters in dash or do you mean the tweets on coaxials? Try turning off the dip switch for kicker EQ first. I believe it adds some highs and that may be your offending harshness. You may also want to DSP train with it off if that doesn’t remove enough highs. HU eqshould...

I have Alpine coax in the dash. Memphis midbass in the kick. No outboard crossovers, the coax has a bass cap but it doesn’t factor. They clearly don’t understand how bi-amp works. Make sure you listen to a lot of reference material before. Then critical listen after. You will be able to...

Very nice!!! The Key 200 and 500 should both use dedicated fused power direct to the battery. And use the remote send from the 200 to tell the 500 when to turn on/off. Auto detect on the 500 was not good for me. Wired to the 200 is great.