B&O Stereo System Upgrade on 2025 Bronco Raptor

[ScorpiusSPKC]

Thanks man, I appreciate you.

Still waiting for a response and if I don’t hear back by this afternoon will swing into the store and ask directly to the techs. In the meantime here is a link for the PAC manual, it might be able to answer your question or give you an idea to help move forward with your upgrade. I must correct my previous statement about the center channel not being amplified, i do believe it is so its good thing I replaced the speaker.


https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20251022162900/Manuals/541/541AP4FD32.PDF

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[MORaptor1]

Uhhhhggg. I need to get this done. I hate the B&O these come with.

 

[derichio02]

I used the Kicker KS Series - KSC40 and they are actually quieter than the stock B&O speakers. Definitely more clarity, but I have to run the volume higher compared to stock.

Maybe I need to try the CS series but I thought the KS would be better…

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSC40/Kicker-KSC40.html

 

[23OBX2.7]

I used the Kicker KS Series - KSC40 and they are actually quieter than the stock B&O speakers. Definitely more clarity, but I have to run the volume higher compared to stock.

Maybe I need to try the CS series but I thought the KS would be better…

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSC40/Kicker-KSC40.html

Both Kickers have 88db sensitivity. KSC40 are 75W RMS which is likey a misalignment with B&O channel output thus the volume drop.

I doubt CS is an upgrade over B&O and will definately be bright.

The coax only belong in the outboard dash anyway otherwise all get too harsh.

You may want to try the Key DSP auto tune a few times with placement of the mic at head level between front seats (head resats removed) on top of a supporting HD tape strip that straddles seats, or just top of driver seat.

Coax tune is incredibly difficult I doubt the Key200 can touch it.

It can take up to 100 hrs for drivers to break in so defenately retune around then.

 

[derichio02]

Both Kickers have 88db sensitivity. KSC40 are 75W RMS which is likey a misalignment with B&O channel output thus the volume drop.

I doubt CS is an upgrade over B&O and will definately be bright.

The coax only belong in the outboard dash anyway otherwise all get too harsh.

You may want to try the Key DSP auto tune a few times with placement of the mic at head level between front seats (head resats removed) on top of a supporting HD tape strip that straddles seats, or just top of driver seat.

Coax tune is incredibly difficult I doubt the Key200 can touch it.

It can take up to 100 hrs for drivers to break in so defenately retune around then.

Key 200.4 doesn’t work with B&O. I tried JL C1’s with the same result since I had them laying around.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Key 200.4 doesn’t work with B&O. I tried JL C1’s with the same result since I had them laying around.

Oh I thought you had that installed. You're on B&O amp?

 

[derichio02]

Oh I thought you had that installed. You're on B&O amp?

Yep. Weird experience, especially with the sensitivity of the kickers

 

[23OBX2.7]

Id attribute it ro driver RMS and amp RMS mismatch. These are critical speakers and cheap ones will not do much for you.

Audison APX4 would be a good choice. The 40W RMS is a good match to amp RMS. The dash corner coax are critical drivers.

Id also do Audison AP4 for pods and center. I have them in pods w sound deadeing and they are invisible which is exactly how they are supposed to be.

The B&O sounds great with a mono block that has integrated LOC, a good 10-12" sub, and whilemnot my exact config usaong all Audison AP drivers except APX 4 for dask corners will transform the sound and save $2-3 K on Ato B module, a good DSP amp, wiring etc with DIY, or $4Km+/- if get installed.

 

[Braptor_Fisher]

I did the rear pods with the Kickers, and it made a huge impact for the better. Now I'll be doing the kicker sub install so I can free up space from my JL 10 box. Did you wire the sub as bridged or parallel?

 

[WillinMA]

Sorry , I guess I am still not seeing how you are running all the wiring? Forgive me, I am just trying to follow how some are bypassing the factory B&O amp in their rides. I see that the PAC takes the factory connections to give you 3 sets of Pre-AMP outputs (2 front, 2 rear and sub). So I take it as you are unplugging the B&O amp, which powers 8 speakers (2 kick, 3 dash, 2 rear and a sub) and plugging that harness into the PAC box. How are you running all your speakers? Thanks for helping me out, I really want to upgrade my system and this seems like a good solution.

I just upgraded the 2025 B&O on a raptor using the TrailSeven kits. The PAC interface takes the Ford A2B digital signal and converts to low level RCA which then plugs into whatever amp you want ( you choose how many channels you want) - for example on the kit I purchased it came with a 8 channel amp - so 2 channels to the dash speakers, 2 channels to the front kick speakers, 2 to the rear pods, and 2 bridged for the sub.

I’ve upgraded a 2021 with B&O with a Mobridge amp which has the A2B converter built into the amp. Both sound great but the 2025 is much easier because all the speakers are driven by the factory amp, so replacing the amp is much easier using the existing speaker wire

 

[Firewire]

Both Kickers have 88db sensitivity. KSC40 are 75W RMS which is likey a misalignment with B&O channel output thus the volume drop.

I doubt CS is an upgrade over B&O and will definately be bright.

The coax only belong in the outboard dash anyway otherwise all get too harsh.

You may want to try the Key DSP auto tune a few times with placement of the mic at head level between front seats (head resats removed) on top of a supporting HD tape strip that straddles seats, or just top of driver seat.

Coax tune is incredibly difficult I doubt the Key200 can touch it.

It can take up to 100 hrs for drivers to break in so defenately retune around then.

So on just swapping the sub only on a B&O system the Kicker is the better option than the DS18 8"? Looks like the DS18 has an 84db sensitivity vs kickers 88. DS18 8" Subwoofer for Ford Bronco – OEM Replacement for B&O Sound Upgrade

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