37s - 6112 vs HOSS 3.0/Eibach HD springs

[TruckCamper]

After countless searching on this forum for data … it’s like you read my mind.

I have been asking over and over in my head on how to justify the hoss 3.0 upgrade at the time of order, when I should have been focused on the bigger picture, both options are bandaids…

truth is, I will out grow both being my history. I have always been more of a crawler myself cutting my teeth at Rausch Creek Off-road park in PA. Now being in SC, I don’t see desert running as an option, although I may be able to convince the wife to take some trips to Colorado and Moab

I couldn’t agree more about driver mod and 35s vs 37s. My thoughts on 37s is more tire to fill the void on sketchy obstacles. Yes, they will create more strain, but for the 4-6 times a year I can actually get out on the trails, I’m not worried. I know what comes with them. It wouldn’t be my first time changing a tie rod or a CV out on the trail while laying in the mud… always carry spares!

looks like Icon may be the best overall option in the end though. Though I can’t justify stage 7 or 8. Stage 3 is my speed and I prefer RockJock links being you can grease the Johnny Joints.

appreciate the feedback!

Don't waste money on the rear links. Unless you damage one. There is zero benefits other than less money in your bank and more maintenance.

Links do not limit travel but sway bars and shocks / coilovers do unless going past the range of Icon who truly maxed out all available range unless going crazy chop everything off mode.

People online try to promote products just because they bought them. Be careful not just buying into stuff without researching.

We are running stock links on both the Raptor and 2dr. Upper control arms may be helpful depending on alignment needs. But upper control arms are the same mess as much of the aftermarket world. More maintenance, less longevity and many with less range / clearance to factory.

Now everyone who bought sway bars, links and control arms will post up to persuade you to buy them. Haha

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[Overkill6G]

Don't waste money on the rear links. Unless you damage one. There is zero benefits other than less money in your bank and more maintenance.

Links do not limit travel but sway bars and shocks / coilovers do unless going past the range of Icon who truly maxed out all available range unless going crazy chop everything off mode.

People online try to promote products just because they bought them. Be careful not just buying into stuff without researching.

We are running stock links on both the Raptor and 2dr. Upper control arms may be helpful depending on alignment needs. But upper control arms are the same mess as much of the aftermarket world. More maintenance, less longevity and many with less range / clearance to factory.

Now everyone who bought sway bars, links and control arms will post up to persuade you to buy them. Haha

I like it! Save me money!

really the links were to fix pinion angle and center the rear. Keeping the rear Upper links on the list and the panhard relocation bracket. Should be fine at 2-3”

 

[TruckCamper]

I like it! Save me money!

really the links were to fix pinion angle and center the rear. Keeping the rear Upper links on the list and the panhard relocation bracket. Should be fine at 2”

It's not necessary at all. We have an adjustable panhard bar on the Raptor and the alignment shop said it was not worth adjusting as it was in range. Our 2dr has the drop bracket which does help compensate but again axle or pinion isn't off enough to matter (3-3.5" lift).

 

[Squatch]

Really? I did 35s and find them quieter than the stock GY MTs. They are heavy, though, and I put them on the boat anchor OEM SAS wheels. I could have save quite a few unsprung pounds with a new lighter wheel and 37" BFG KO3s.

A > B
C > B
C > A

All can be true

 

[BajaBroncoLi]

I like it! Save me money!

really the links were to fix pinion angle and center the rear. Keeping the rear Upper links on the list and the panhard relocation bracket. Should be fine at 2-3”

For enough lift for 37s you most definitely need upper control arms in the front everything else is mostly optional. I’d do the rear track relocation bracket personally as I did

 

[ThunderFlash]

A > B
C > B
C > A

All can be true

True statements....but A, my Goodyears, were not very noisy in my opinion, though they did have a audible signature. B, the KO3s, I have no experience with, but past KO2s I owned always had a bit of howl to them, especially after aging a few years. Then C, the Baja Bosses, mine are amazingly quiet even disregarding the very aggressive AT tread. I do get a tiny bit of hum under a very specific condition set that I have yet to fully define, but outside of that, silence. I'm not sure how a tire can be quieter than what I would classify as "no howl".

So, yeah, I'm a little surprised that the BBs could be considered louder than the KO3s, which I would not expect to qualify as "no howl". Not arguing or throwing shade, just explaining my surprise.

 

[Squatch]

True statements....but A, my Goodyears, were not very noisy in my opinion, though they did have a audible signature. B, the KO3s, I have no experience with, but past KO2s I owned always had a bit of howl to them, especially after aging a few years. Then C, the Baja Bosses, mine are amazingly quiet even disregarding the very aggressive AT tread. I do get a tiny bit of hum under a very specific condition set that I have yet to fully define, but outside of that, silence. I'm not sure how a tire can be quieter than what I would classify as "no howl".

So, yeah, I'm a little surprised that the BBs could be considered louder than the KO3s, which I would not expect to qualify as "no howl". Not arguing or throwing shade, just explaining my surprise.

My KO2s were quieter than the Baja Boss, but I basically have to have the stereo off.

A Baja Boss AT’s
B my KO2s
C Ford Goodyears

So, from Loud to quiet spelled CAB

**I never daily drove a Sasquatch, so I can be wrong, but I put about 36k on the KO2s with the majority in Miami heat. I may also have lost my hearing in the frequency of the KO2 howl, lol, but the VA swears I didn't... wife disagrees.

 

[wildtrak whitey]

I like the hoss 3.0, but I bought a wildtrak specifically for it. Running zone lift with ucas up front designed specifically for the 3.0. Also did the JKS kit. Only rubbing was on factory running boards. Fixed that.

Had squatch factory sized toyo rt trails before swapping for f rated 37 ko3s (c rated weren't out yet). The ko3s are quiet. Really quiet. Significant drop in tire noise vs the toyos. Very noticeable with doors off.

Also swapped to wheels 10 lbs lighter than factory.

Ride is great on road and on shit roads at speed. I have not crawled much with it yet.

I had bilstein 5160 reservoirs on my 3/4 ton before swapping to fox 2.5 DSC. There is no comparison. Not an apples to apples comparison to your scenario, but the 2.5" fox platform performs well across various applications. And the fox window stickers are just better than bilstein.

Best of luck with your decision.

 

[crzyhawk]

True statements....but A, my Goodyears, were not very noisy in my opinion, though they did have a audible signature. B, the KO3s, I have no experience with, but past KO2s I owned always had a bit of howl to them, especially after aging a few years. Then C, the Baja Bosses, mine are amazingly quiet even disregarding the very aggressive AT tread. I do get a tiny bit of hum under a very specific condition set that I have yet to fully define, but outside of that, silence. I'm not sure how a tire can be quieter than what I would classify as "no howl".

So, yeah, I'm a little surprised that the BBs could be considered louder than the KO3s, which I would not expect to qualify as "no howl". Not arguing or throwing shade, just explaining my surprise.

everything that I have read is that the KO3 is a significant increase over the KO2 in most ways. Just internet wisdom, so that that for what it's worth.

 

[Brian_B]

The only real downside of the Braptor is your Bronco looks like it tried to mate with several Rubbermaid trash cans simultaneously and failed spectacularly at it. Well, that and no 7MT, but we can't all be perfect.

But definitely can't fault the capabilty - you get a ton of that stock, without having to upgrade a thing. And by the time you start to upgrade a non-Raptor to even get close, you've spent way more than Raptor-level money. If you really are looking at "no compromise" - well, there it is. Every other trim level is some sort of compromise away from Braptor. Apart from the fender flares.

If your main concern on a tire upgrade is road noise... well.. plenty of threads on how to upgrade the stereo.

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