Hardtop side panels — finally found something tool-free (Raptor)

[RedBeardoh]

Well the mystery has been fun

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[B-Dog15]

My brother in Christ, please post pictures so we can have discourse about this

 

[DarthLincoln]

My brother in Christ, please post pictures so we can have discourse about this

 

[RedBeardoh]

 

[rbroncotx]

What I switched to was the GPCA Anchor PRO — completely tool-free on the side panels now. The D-rings also double as cargo tie-down points when I'm running topless, which is a bonus I didn't expect. One heads up: the forward panel bolts on the Bronco still need a T40, that's just how it's engineered. But the side panels are night and day faster.

 

[RedBeardoh]

What I switched to was the GPCA Anchor PRO — completely tool-free on the side panels now. The D-rings also double as cargo tie-down points when I'm running topless, which is a bonus I didn't expect. One heads up: the forward panel bolts on the Bronco still need a T40, that's just how it's engineered. But the side panels are night and day faster.

Post some pics!

 

[HalfmuleFarmer]

$50. I had bought them just for the tie-downs, as my 2DR top stays (mostly) on. I still have no idea what the OP is talking about re: forward panel bolts.

 

[DarthLincoln]

@rbroncotx this still confusing.

You dismissed the RockWorkX knurled D-Ring bolts @Brian_B suggested for securing the rear shell because “you’re still turning something” and your solution “just lifts straight off”:

@Brian_B those knurled bolts are cool but you're still turning something. What I found you don't turn at all, just lift straight off. More once I've got actual trail miles on it.

Yet your solution is T-handled bolts that are functionally no different than what Brian suggested - you have to turn them to take the rear shell off.


You also referred to bolts over the windshield. There are no bolts over the windshield that need to be removed to take any hardtop panels off.

The ones over the rear seats lift straight off now, no tool. The forward pair over the windshield still want a T40.

Did you mean the bolts that secure the rear shell to the top of the roll cage over the rear doors?

 

[TrailDamage]

Man is in a constant state of movement. Clearly if he doesn’t have time to turn a wrench he doesn’t have time to stop and take a picture

 

[Area51BS]

22 is still a MIC right? I’m thinking packing tape.

 

[HeliPilot]

I use a cordless/electric ratchet to remove all 10 bolts. It’s long enough that I can remove the rear 8 while standing at the tailgate. Takes less than 1 minute, then I go to each rear door and remove the 2 upper bolts. Nearly zero effort. 1 ratchet, 1 torx bit and less than 2 minutes max, done. Practically the same story reinstalling them.

 

[rbroncotx]

Fair hit, and you're right. You do turn them — by hand, no tool. "Don't turn at all" was me overselling it. And I meant the bolts at the top of the rear doors, not over the windshield. I've mangled the terminology on this whole thread. @HeliPilot the cordless ratchet gets you to the same place, you just have to be carrying one.

 

[not on the rug]

I'm starting to think OP is an AI bot...and a terribly programmed one at that.

"Mangling the terminology" of things like bolt, door and windshield and not understanding the concept of turning a bolt is a major red flag that OP either isn't human or isn't smart enough to operate a motor vehicle.

 

[ptgptg]

He's referring to his Raptor Sport. Stealth project by Ford. Side panels come off but clam shell stays on. Roof is one monolithic piece until you use the included sawzall to cut the front part of the top into three pieces and then cut the side panels off the clamshell. If you screw up the sawzall part, you get this:

 

[rbroncotx]

Sawzall's in the glovebox next to the owner's manual I never read. And fair enough — though I figure a bot would've quit getting mocked in its own thread somewhere around post 20.

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