Still have them; although I never had liners for them and don’t know what they are. The full set is at my home, ready to go. If you are in Seabrook I can deliver.
Agreed and recommend - - battery at zero, can’t take a charge: top up via jumpers from running vehicle to get its threshold voltage up.
disconnect battery from everything. Esp. BMS device.
- charge whatever good managed charging system you have for AGM. I use Battery Tender 4 Amp - for 1-2...
Yeah thanks -looked closer at it and the spindle snapped, I’ll pop it out, get a new end to put on, remember my turns, and connect it up, align. This kind of tap I’m hoping the CV wasn’t jacked, much worse happens on the trail.
I had a bad cell or something and could not trickle, bench or highway charge the battery, they could see via remote my SOC was staying low. I pushed the dealer to test it and they swapped it out 60 days before warranty end.
Strong low speed tap on D/S front tire by a T-Bone driver. (Hit/run). Snapped tie rod joint off the steering knuckle. I need to look closer in the morning, but maybe this is just rebuild the Icon tie rod ball joint and re-align?
Cooler plugs are just to limit pre-day/knock in tuned Turbo engines, so they say. This is my first of that engine config so I run them and from stock to NGK cold to cold Ruthenium I noticed a gradual and significant difference, in idle and punch (but not expecting 30K out of them either).
Thanks Doc (@HV), ACA is due in my small town any day. And CalvinT my old man was a Navy man too. He was an aviator though.
I’d never put extra scuttle in my driveline view if I could avoid doing it. Those left side mounts work for me.
I have been studying Banks for a while, A pillar or vent mount display
- mounted left it’s natural for my eyes to quick-glance at as needed and can include logging too - but the font is too small for my vision to quickly evaluate. I have these cheap split-reader sunglasses I’ve been...
I re read your post and see you said that, sorry. I actually used it before, a while back experimenting on my T4R and that was with Apple. I’ll do some research. Thanks and sorry I missed it the 1st time.
This pic reminds me. One thing I will add now that I saw the pic, and had forgotten - the reason for a HUD is I can’t see the display and scan my gauges when the wheel is turned over (airbag/horn block). So whether the OEM cluster is good or not, I miss my readings at times I can get a glance at...
They talk about it in this thread by @CarbonSteel - I think the consensus is yes but I don’t remember for sure, but the reading and discussion is worth it.
@8rent - I did not see in the thread, what Android app is that? Those gauges are easy to read and ell laid out. I’ve tried a bunch off my App Store and many just make it seem like I’m playing Defender or something. These look automotive-oriented.
I’ve fooled around with different configurations to get the right setup for my driving style and poor near-eyesight. I think the new AigMex thing will put my extra iPod or Android thing in the right spot where I sometimes keep a limited HUD like this for RPM mainly.
Yes I’m 10S automatic, but...
Yours is the idea that I was first inspired by. The sewing bit threw me off though; so this was the alternative I came up with. 2 inch foam squished on top of these panels of mine, and I think I’ll be complete.
After an successful experiment with some insulating board scrap I had lying around, I added a new cut-to-fit sheet of 3/4 inch insulating foam board over the roll bar. $25 for the kind with a reflective side from HD. Cut the length to reach from the windshield frame to just over the rear speaker...
The Motive kit has 15% off now, I’d get one if I wasn’t already set up for this. And it’s almost half price of just the bent tube that Freedom somebody are selling!