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Got it modeled up. Test print shows identical dims to .001. I have no interest in selling these due to the legal issues, but will link the step files.

If I recall it is the same intercooler as the wagner, and it came with an adapter and instructions. I think you have to trim one of the oem lines and fit the adapter. I can go look for my instructions and see what it said.

Mostly out of curiosity sake, but is your seat lowered as low as possible?

Whats your plan for closing that huge gap in the fan shroud to radiator?

Remind me if you have a rear sway bar?

I have modified my non-sas badlands with a very similar approach in mind. I did the 4wp coilovers to gain some travel, but I actually went with slightly softer springs to keep the ride height (and CG) on 35s low. With IFS the ride height is pretty irrelevent until you are dragging front skids...

Did you ever find these? Still looking for some to CAD.

A southbend kit + slave is less than 2k for better than OEM quality. At the very least I wouldn't put the oem clutch back in over a southbend HD kit.

This is the most absurd part here. That is INSANE for a clutch and slave R+R. Do they have a break down of that price. You could pull the engine out and replace the clutch on a stand for that cost.

I needed it for the wagner intercooler install. You can do it without, but the quality of the rivnut install is much better with a rivnut tool. I used the harbor freight special and it worked great. using the correct drill size for a m8 rivnut is also critical. Don't just use the closest...

Recently spent a few days in moab and did shafer, along with top of the world, hells revenege, fins, tower arch etc. We ran 18 psi the whole time including driving to and from the trails. We were on 38x13.5s so I would probably stick with 22 or so on the stock 35s. Keep highway speeds to 50...

I tend to agree here. I have ridden with people that are "well seasoned in manual" and be amazed at how much they ride the clutch and misshift and have seen them blow a clutch in 200 miles of aggressive driving. The problem here is that even if it was not your fault, the images you showed...

Did they add more info. Was it overheat? overspeed? I think there is some consideration here if the slave failed and leaked and you continued to drive it which resulted in slippage and overheat. With that said when a slave fails I have never seen one fail that caused a clutch failure...

Interesting I had not seen or heard of those before, but they are pretty pricy compared to some of the other quality options with more data and pedigree. What made you go with those? 400/250 is also a crazy front rear split based on @87-Z28 roll stiffness calcs. At 400 on the front I would...

Still very happy with my 500/200 combo. Rides better than the rates it comes with in my opinion. Have only been street driving, but hope to get a trip in soon to test them out. If I did it again, I may even consider one step softer( to be able to run more preload and maintain this height...

That brings your outside tire edge to edge distance to ~91 inches. Thats wildly wide in my opinion. Fitting 38s on a more appropriate offset wheel should be no issue.

I have an Xterra along side my Bronco. The Xterra is my daily with 216k trouble free miles. Im obviously a 2010 era Nissan guy as much as I am a Ford guy so this has my interest. The EV argument is far to political for my taste, but my hope is that the technologies continue to improve...

I have repeated this nearly every time people talk about windshields, but you just have to get familiar with getting chips filled as soon as they happen. I have a guy next to my work that does chip filling and I haven't let a single chip go unfilled for more than a day. I have had 7+ chips...

The Front looks pretty sweet and I am interested in the steering ram assist. The rear geometry is comically bad imo. It appears that they are smart enough to probably have good motion kinematics, but the implementation is just bad. Clearing the gastank with that lower mounted and bend...

The motion ratios and angles on that pushrod look quite horrible though. yikes. I have designed and raced cantilever suspensions before, and that would have me concerned. The lower arms under the diff is also a choice.