Same, my rear pods are stock. I'm going to turn the EQ off and give the rear pods full range as a "Speaker & Tweeter" as from the factory they are only configured as tweeters I believe, and then use the HU to offset the front and rear fade like you. I'll report back with the results.
@AZCoyote
Did you do any ForScan mods? I'm considering changing the speaker configuration settings for the rear pods to "Speaker & Tweeter" while also turning off the factory EQ. Front sound stage is already awesome, just trying to get the best since I received the OBDLink EX cable in the mail...
If you decide to go the Kicker 200.4 way, let me know if you have any questions. I was able to get everything setup and dialed in very easily in less than 2 hours. It's been a joy to get in and crank my tunes. 200W Front sound stage with the rear pods on head unit power. Excellent bang for your...
@AZCoyote Are you running components or coaxials for your dash and kicks?
Shop keeps saying since both of mine are coax and not components I should be using the standard wiring diagram.
I’m going to insist on Bi-Amp based on what you told me.
Thanks to @AZCoyote I was able to write up a step by step guide using all the information and knowledge be made available to us on this thread and forum. Here it is. Thank you @AZCoyote you're the man! If you see anything I missed, please point it out.
KICKER KEY 200.4 Bi-Amp Mode Wiring...
I'm on the verge of finding another shop. I sent them the manual and even highlighted those pages. Basically what they're telling me is that since I have coaxials in the dash and in the kicks, that I don't need Bi-Amp mode. I asked grok and this is what it spit out when I told it I had JL coax...
@AZCoyote
I'm trying to get my audio shop to reconfigure the plug n play harness and get setup the way you have suggested with Bi-Amp mode. The installer emailed me the following before performing the job:
What Bi-Amp mode is actually doing
On amps like the Kicker KEY 200.4, Bi-Amp mode...
This makes perfect sense. It's really kinda simple. Just sounded more complicated than it really is.
Thank you for this. I've got my homework cut out for me now.
"At this point you now have nothing going into channels three and four on the amp input and nothing connected to channels three and four on the amp output. You should have color matching sets of disconnected wires on both side sides of the harness.
Now, you have an option at this point. You...
Gotcha! So I read that you just disconnected the connecter at the kicks and ran new wires to the 200.4 outputs from the kicks. If I'm getting this right, you cut up the plugnplay harness and didn't touch the stock wiring. Is that right?
So I'm a little confused. I have the 200.4 and used a harness from plugnplaykits.com
This is the way I set mine up and worked well:
1.) Bi-Amp Mode OFF
2.) Fader ON
3.) Radio Detect Button -Verify Pushed In
4.) Speed Volume on Radio Disabled
5.) Level Out EQ on Radio
6.) Turn Gains All The Way...
Yes, the battery tender works on other batteries/ vehicles. But this is the only one where if only the + is connected it reads a .5V draw. (- not even connected and I’m not touching the Bronco whatsoever
It’s been in a continuous loop a for hours, probably even over night. If I pull the tender...
Hello all! I’ve got an issue where my Bronco has been going in to battery saving mode and I put it on a 4AMP battery tender. It’s hooked up with the + lead at the + battery post and the - lead behind the voltage sensor. Bronco is locked and the fobs are far away. However, the tender never...