If you want a proper B&O set up, you will need the B&O amp (which uses a different wiring harness than the sub-only amp), A2B wiring, to extend the CAN bus to the amp, plus a harness to tie into the ACM one to run the front speakers. It's more than just the ACM swap to get a working system...
It's the sub, it hits way harder than the OEM sub, but that's just not good enough. I got the Gearshade/Additivite Audio 3D printed enclosure and put a 10TW3 in it and it is substantially better than the stealthbox AND cheaper. It's still not rattle your neighbors windows loud, for something...
Since I couldn't find any install instructions anywhere I figured I'd add a few lessons learned for the thread:
You will need to disassemble the control box for the winch to remove the contactor/solenoid. You will mount the contactor to the winch plate, there are two holes towards the front...
100% recommend this solution, I upgraded from the StealthBox to this and it's a much better sounding option.
I also would not bother upsizing the rear-pods, it's just not going to make enough of a difference to justify the extra cost.
For me this will be my backup home internet service that replaced the current 5G fixed wireless I pay for, same $50/mo but unlike the fixed wireless I can take this with me on a trip and it will work in areas without 5G service. Otherwise, yeah I'd probably just pause it when I don't have a...
I almost ordered a refurb one a just after Super Cel too, but hesitated on pulling the trigger cause the next time I'd possibly need it isn't until October and I'm trying to buy a house between now and then, but $299 was too good of a price to pass up. Thanks for taking one for the team 🤣.
mObridge is bridged internally to a single channel, but provides two pairs of output signals but it's mostly to use smaller wires in the harness - you would either combine the + and - wires for an SVC, or you can hook up a pair to a DVC (or combined them and wire the coils in parallel). It can...
I did some rough tuning with umik/rew, I need to take more time and tweak it some more but what I have now sounds way better than stock 6 speaker or B&O by far.
The factory 6.5" will be better with some extra power, however you will eventually burn them out at higher power - and the mObridge...
The B&O amp runs the front channels and sub speakers, the rear and center speaker are powered by the ACM. The B&O amp puts out 660 watts peak, which you can presume most of that is going to the sub.
The Type S speakers you have can run 45W RMS and 140W peak power for the 4" (coax). The 6.5"...
I did upgrade the pods on mine with the SSV ones, but honestly if I was doing it again I would not upgrade the pods, they just do not make enough of a difference in their contribution to mid-bass to justify the cost. A good pair of 4 1/2" speakers and the forscan speaker type change will sound...
It's going to be the 4-pin plug that goes into the amp coming off the mobridge side of the factory harness, there will be 3 wires. CAN carries the commands and responses from the APIM/ACM to the amp.