Broken connector for parking sensors

[Bronco_Mo]

Well…. I was tired of getting the fault every time I backed out so I did a bit of trimming on the female end and removed the orange rubber o-ring (grommet?). Now I get a good connection and no fault light. It looked like the grommet was loose and binding up causing the male end to not seat all the way. I probably could have got a pick and removed it without trimming the plastic, but hey it works. Taped it up good with electrical tape until I have time to replace the connector…

i think this is the exact reason mine is not seating.

Sponsored

 

[zone23]

for future post viewers, I had this same problem the clips are fragile!
I ended up putting some heatshrink over it and before heating it, cable tie the connectors tight together, then heat up. I left the cable ties on but could probably remove them. It worked well, no more error and was easier than trying to swap connectors over. Pretty easy to cut the heatshrink off if needed in the future.

Mine seems to be broken would have liked to see how you managed to zip tie it. I had it taped together but Bronco gave me a parking aid error disconnected and plugged it back in and it seem to be working again. I have the dealer doing the electrical work for the hitch in a few days maybe if I just leave it be maybe they will think they broke it LOL but I don't know if they will have to take that loose or not. Installing the hitch was easy except for this issue now.

 

[greyburn]

I got mine to seat, my previous repair eventually failed (sorry didnt take photos) and whilst squeezing them together I heard a click and it was good!
I think its possibly just a super tight connector. I would pull out the grommet with a pick, clean and lube everything and try again.

 

[jhall757]

I just had this issue when installing an aftermarket hitch receiver. Ended up breaking the clip and then removing the O-ring (that's what was blocking the clip from properly connecting). Taped it together and no parking sensor error. Temporary fix until I get it addressed at the dealership.

 

[Alfa]

Same thing happened to me. Removed the bumper to install the Ford hitch. When re-installing, driver's side clicked without issue. Passenger side would click and the clip broken on the 3rd try.

I finally shot a little WD-40 in and was able to press far enough down then held things together with a zip tie. This is so incredibly frustrating. 8 month old connectors should have more than 1 insertion lifespan.

I imagine that I will have to fight the dealership to try to get them to repair this under warranty. Any body have any experience trying to get connectors repaired under warranty?

 

[Dubsesd]

Ok well I guess I’m not nuts! I installed a hitch and had the same damn problem I was so frustrated! Annoying for sure eventually I got it to lock in place but I swear it took longer to connect those connectors then installing the hitch itself.

 

[Alfa]

I had the bumper off and the hitch installed in about 30 minutes. Spent the next several hours angrily trying to find a solution to my broken connector. Without the wd-40 it never went in far enough, even with the broken clip.

 

[Alfa]

I imagine that I will have to fight the dealership to try to get them to repair this under warranty. Any body have any experience trying to get connectors repaired under warranty?

Took the Bronco in to have the tow hitch wiring installed. I asked about the connector to see if they would cover it under warranty, and if not, what would be my cost to fix the connector. I also asked if the connector was maybe part of a sub-harness that might be easily replaceable, rather than splicing in 6 wires.

I was told that the the connector was not under warranty because it broke during a "bumper replacement". The cost to repair the connector? $1100. $280 for the part, DU2Z-14S411-EA, and $800 or so for the labor.

The part is easily available online for under $50. It is just a Ford repair kit that has the connector as a pigtail with butt connectors and shrink tubing. The connector is in an awkward place when the Bronco on the ground, so I estimate that it would take an hour of being pissed off, cutting and spicing while you are hunched over or laying on your back. If I had a lift and could bring the connector up to a reasonable working height, then it is literally 30 minutes tops. Cut, splice, heat, repeat 5 more times. $1100.

I feel certain that the dealership didn't reach out to Ford to see if the connector could be repaired under warranty and instead went for some crazy service price to see if I would bite.

I also asked for a quote to add a TPMS sensor to my spare tire since I had to replace it when it was stolen. For reference, the part is around $55 online, then requires it to be programmed. They sell programmers on Amazon for $15. $500. Yep. $500 to pull the tire off the truck, replace the valve stem and reprogram the sensor.

Oh, did I say reprogram the sensor? No they won't be able to do that until I actually put the tire on one of the corners of the Bronco and it starts rolling, then I would bring it back to reprogram.

I must have showered and combed my hair or something that made me look rich and gullible. No more showers for me...

 

[thenewjs]

Connector not available from Ford yet. Not sure if this is a WDP part or someone else. What I've done in the past is get a magnifying glass out and look for any numbers etched or molded into the connector somewhere (it's generally damn small). TE, Yazaki and Molex are used heavily in Ford stuff and if you have a number, can usually find it. It's going to be some version of a sealed 1.5 series.

HEY WERE WE ABLE TO IDENTIFY THIS PART? I WOULD LIKE TO SOURCE IT.

 

[BroncMan]

This same passenger-side connector broke on my Three-week-old Bronco. Do you think it might be a manufacturer defect???? Hitch install.....

 

[flip]

Rear

Front

Sponsored