alright - I have gone through and done an EQ for a single speaker, measuring in REW and creating some filters that it predicts should get the measured curve close to the target curve, then entering those into the mObridge software. Then I re-measured, and... it doesn't look much different. Even with some really significant magnitude, some major attenuation, it seems to only do 1/4 of what I was trying to get it to do. I'm getting a bit frustrated...I always connected my Mac to the car via Bluetooth and I had no problem with that.
You can also try a USB-C cable.
If you want to generate electricity individual speaker curves based on a house curve, I would suggest to use TUN4 software from JL, I use it in demo mode and generate my speaker curves based on my house curve.
There are only few DSPs that have an integration with REW and you can import the EQ filters in. mObridge unfortunately does not have that feature and you will have to enter them manually.
I always connected my Mac to the car via Bluetooth and I had no problem with that.
You can also try a USB-C cable.
If you want to generate electricity individual speaker curves based on a house curve, I would suggest to use TUN4 software from JL, I use it in demo mode and generate my speaker curves based on my house curve.
There are only few DSPs that have an integration with REW and you can import the EQ filters in. mObridge unfortunately does not have that feature and you will have to enter them manually.
Update: I think using REW and calculating correction curves and typing the calcualted filters into the mObridge software is not really the way to go. I didn't get good results that way. It's more about just having a target curve as a visual goal, and then adjusting various EQ points live via the mObridge graphical interface until the line in REW RTA gets kinda close.
I've done that a few times, and it's really interesting how _far_ from flat the base speaker curves are. I do have very basic speakers in there, I put in the Alpine S2-S40C component speakers in the dash because they are very cheap, I could test things out. I still have the JL C2-650X in the kick panels. They are rather egregious - extremely boomy and bass-heavy. Maybe it's the location, maybe I blew the tweeters, maybe they're actually that way?
So - I don't feel like I was getting as close to the target curves as I'd like, but I was able to improve things quite a lot. And, of course, setting the timing and the levels is a rather significantly useful starting point.
Tuning a few different times, fiddling, things sound different each time; so I don't feel like I'm getting close to ideal. My current hypothesis is that it'll take better speakers that have flatter response curves to get there. I can chip away at that over time!
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