Ideal RMS for replacement B&O speakers?

[Jhuff]

So I know just enough about sound systems to be dangerous, but I do prefer powerful sound and know that I want to match the RMS of the replacement speakers to the expected wattage output of the Bronco (as high as possible).

Does anyone know the output specs, per channel, of the B&O system?

Going through all of the available speaker options, I'm seeing nominal RMS from 35w to 50w+. I've also seen some suggested speakers that are only 3ohms (35w RMS).

Any input would be appreciated.

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[Brianstrange]

So I know just enough about sound systems to be dangerous, but I do prefer powerful sound and know that I want to match the RMS of the replacement speakers to the expected wattage output of the Bronco (as high as possible).

Does anyone know the output specs, per channel, of the B&O system?

Going through all of the available speaker options, I'm seeing nominal RMS from 35w to 50w+. I've also seen some suggested speakers that are only 3ohms (35w RMS).

Any input would be appreciated.

I would focus on efficiency vs power rating. Try to find something that's over 90db. The amp output is unlikely to blow any speaker. The amplifier clipping will.

 

[Jhuff]

I would focus on efficiency vs power rating. Try to find something that's over 90db. The amp output is unlikely to blow any speaker. The amplifier clipping will.

I appreciate the input and am looking for sensitive speakers, which most quality speakers are. I am also wanting to match the nominal RMS and Peak wattage as closely as possible to the amp's capability.

I've learned a bit more since the original post, and now know that of the apmlified speakers, the 4" are 25w. Knowing this allows a guess as to the 6" and the sub's wattage, so I may have to guestimate from there. (If the amp is listed as RMS v peak wattage. Lol)

2 x 4” at 25w = 50w
2 x 6" at ??w = ??w
1 x 8" at ???w = ???w
Total = 600+ watts.

 

[Brianstrange]

I appreciate the input and am looking for sensitive speakers, which most quality speakers are. I am also wanting to match the nominal RMS and Peak wattage as closely as possible to the amp's capability.

I've learned a bit more since the original post, and now know that of the apmlified speakers, the 4" are 25w. Knowing this allows a guess as to the 6" and the sub's wattage, so I may have to guestimate from there. (If the amp is listed as RMS v peak wattage. Lol)

2 x 4” at 25w = 50w
2 x 6" at ??w = ??w
1 x 8" at ???w = ???w
Total = 600+ watts.

RMS and Peak handling is not even a consideration that will have an impact in this case. Get the most efficient drivers you can find, that have a linear response and you will be fine.

 

[Jhuff]

RMS and Peak handling is not even a consideration that will have an impact in this case. Get the most efficient drivers you can find, that have a linear response and you will be fine.

I appreciate the input, again, but this is not on topic. I am asking what the wattages are per channel for the B&O.

As stated, I am going to buy speakers that whose specs are as closely matched to the wattage available. I wouldn't put a 25w speaker on a 400w amp, nor would I put a speaker designed for large wattage (that also costs 2x to 3x more) on a tiny B&O amp.

 

[Brianstrange]

I appreciate the input, again, but this is not on topic. I am asking what the wattages are per channel for the B&O.

As stated, I am going to buy speakers that whose specs are as closely matched to the wattage available. I wouldn't put a 25w speaker on a 400w amp, nor would I put a speaker designed for large wattage (that also costs 2x to 3x more) on a tiny B&O amp.

J, I understand what you're asking, but I'm trying to explain that it has no impact on what you buy for replacement speakers. Not only are power ratings often inaccurate, buying speakers to match the RMS output of the amp is meaningless. Speakers do not have watts. The rule of thumb (based on watt ratings) is that it's better to over power speakers than under power, and no speaker I know of can be over powered by the B&O. I have had award winning car audio systems that the power output was three times the rating of the speakers. More power = better sound. Just about any audio expert or enthusiast will tell you this. If you really want to know, my best estimate is that the system is producing between 25 and 50 watts per channel. If your goal is to make your system sound better without changing the amplifiers, increasing the efficiency of the speakers is like increasing the power output of the amp. If the stock speakers are 87db (Likely,) and you install a set that are 90 db, the relative result is that of doubling the power output of the amp. which adds better sound. I'm trying to give you advice so that you will not waste money. This is a good article for you to read Speaker Article

 

[Wolfeman]

J, I understand what you're asking, but I'm trying to explain that it has no impact on what you buy for replacement speakers. Not only are power ratings often inaccurate, buying speakers to match the RMS output of the amp is meaningless. Speakers do not have watts. The rule of thumb (based on watt ratings) is that it's better to over power speakers than under power, and no speaker I know of can be over powered by the B&O. I have had award winning car audio systems that the power output was three times the rating of the speakers. More power = better sound. Just about any audio expert or enthusiast will tell you this. If you really want to know, my best estimate is that the system is producing between 25 and 50 watts per channel. If your goal is to make your system sound better without changing the amplifiers, increasing the efficiency of the speakers is like increasing the power output of the amp. If the stock speakers are 87db (Likely,) and you install a set that are 90 db, the relative result is that of doubling the power output of the amp. which adds better sound. I'm trying to give you advice so that you will not waste money. This is a good article for you to read Speaker Article

Sounds like a pretty intelligent response here. Have you upgraded any of the components yet or have plans on doing anything?

Any recommendations for specific products?

 

[Brianstrange]

Sounds like a pretty intelligent response here. Have you upgraded any of the components yet or have plans on doing anything?

Any recommendations for specific products?

Not yet, I'm waiting for it to arrive. If B&O was a stand alone option I would not have purchased it. I'm hoping that it offers decent sound quality, but the center channel is giving me doubts. Depending on what it sounds like, I may install a different system. I have no desire for over-powering Bass so I'm hoping that I can make the kick panels fit an 8" and go three way up front. If not, I'll experiment as time permits.

 

[Jhuff]

Speakers do not have watts.

I'm not sure why you added this erroneous statement. Every (quality) speaker has a wattage rating for what it can handle continuously (RMS), at max, and some even a suggested minimum.

The rule of thumb (based on watt ratings) is that it's better to over power speakers than under power, and no speaker I know of can be over powered by the B&O. I have had award winning car audio systems that the power output was three times the rating of the speakers.

Exactly. This system would be underpowered in order to use the clean signal from an amp that isn't maxed on gain but pushes the speakers to their designed continuos RMS rating. This is EXACTLY the point, and exactly what I was attempting to achieve.

I have built many systems for myself and do prefer to maximize the speakers potential given the available clean power. You disagree, thats fine. This is not the thread for that debate.

I will patiently wait until someone knows the ratings of the various channels. Hopefully it won't be on page 5 of a topic that is now debating different theories of system design.

 

[Brianstrange]

I'm not sure why you added this erroneous statement. Every (quality) speaker has a wattage rating for what it can handle continuously (RMS), at max, and some even a suggested minimum.



Exactly. This system would be underpowered in order to use the clean signal from an amp that isn't maxed on gain but pushes the speakers to their designed continuos RMS rating. This is EXACTLY the point, and exactly what I was attempting to achieve.

I have built many systems for myself and do prefer to maximize the speakers potential given the available clean power. You disagree, thats fine. This is not the thread for that debate.

I will patiently wait until someone knows the ratings of the various channels. Hopefully it won't be on page 5 of a topic that is now debating different theories of system design.

Ok, please disregard all advice I’ve given that you find erroneous. Good luck with your journey

 

[EquusBronsis]

Not yet, I'm waiting for it to arrive. If B&O was a stand alone option I would not have purchased it. I'm hoping that it offers decent sound quality, but the center channel is giving me doubts. Depending on what it sounds like, I may install a different system. I have no desire for over-powering Bass so I'm hoping that I can make the kick panels fit an 8" and go three way up front. If not, I'll experiment as time permits.

Ran across these forums earlier today. You might be interested. Speak to bass response and center speakers.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-i-improved-the-b-o-sound-quality-for-free.141052/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/join-me-in-fixing-the-center-speaker-issue.125522/

 

[EquusBronsis]

So I know just enough about sound systems to be dangerous, but I do prefer powerful sound and know that I want to match the RMS of the replacement speakers to the expected wattage output of the Bronco (as high as possible).

Does anyone know the output specs, per channel, of the B&O system?

Going through all of the available speaker options, I'm seeing nominal RMS from 35w to 50w+. I've also seen some suggested speakers that are only 3ohms (35w RMS).

Any input would be appreciated.

Just think in the small space of a Bronco the amp will probably never go over 10 watts of output and that would be LOUD.

 

[Oldhippie]

It is amazing there doesn’t seem to be any info on either systems’ wattage output or ohm rating?? Makes me think it is low output and ohm tolerant but who knows??

 

[BlueGhost]

This is my guess. I'm betting the claimed 600W is max power for the amp. I would guess it's in the neighborhood for 50W per channel, maybe 75W at 2ohms. This would give you 50Wx4 for the front and 150W to the sub, if they happen to use a dual 2ohm sub.

As for a speaker power ratings, most speakers can handle more than their rated power as long as the signal is clean. Most speakers are also rated at full range and will handle much more than rated power when crossed over properly. So run 100W of full range to a 4 inch rated at 20W, the bass will likely damage it. Take that same 100W and cross the 4 inch over at 300hz and it will most likely survive.

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