Bestop Sunrider Wind Noise

[LCW]

Cross posting this here since this thread has some of the most helpful info. My original noise issue was posted in another thread that was focused on the 2 door install…


Success!!!
Got the sunrider quiet!!!

5 things:


1) Clean the whole seal perimeter of the bronco from dust and dirt. Alcohol and clean rag.

2) Replaced the 5.5mm plastic washers with 2mm thick ones (Amazon). Allows the back to sit better against the seal and back roof.

3) Pushed the whole assembly rearward and held there with a bit of pressure before bolting it down. Does two things. Better seal at back and also moves front hooks a bit back to better preload them when they latch closed against the metal loops.

4) There are rivets used in the front bracketry. Two per side But they are too long and hit the door header sheetmetal. I ground the tips down with a dremel down to the nail ball. Cleaned up the sharp edges. Then dusted them with spray paint.

As an extra step I cut rectangular pieces of bicycle inner tube and glued them over the rivet area on each side.

5) I got some weather strip - double D shaped one (Frost King 5/16 x 1/4). Attached that the front center metal brace to have a better seal against the secondary base seal bulb.

All the above did the trick! Tested at 70mph on the freeway even with this super windy day here - no more whistling! And overall it's not much louder than the stock panels.

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[thesocalexplorer]

Cross posting this here since this thread has some of the most helpful info. My original noise issue was posted in another thread that was focused on the 2 door install…


Success!!!
Got the sunrider quiet!!!

5 things:


1) Clean the whole seal perimeter of the bronco from dust and dirt. Alcohol and clean rag.

2) Replaced the 5.5mm plastic washers with 2mm thick ones (Amazon). Allows the back to sit better against the seal and back roof.

3) Pushed the whole assembly rearward and held there with a bit of pressure before bolting it down. Does two things. Better seal at back and also moves front hooks a bit back to better preload them when they latch closed against the metal loops.

4) There are rivets used in the front bracketry. Two per side But they are too long and hit the door header sheetmetal. I ground the tips down with a dremel down to the nail ball. Cleaned up the sharp edges. Then dusted them with spray paint.

As an extra step I cut rectangular pieces of bicycle inner tube and glued them over the rivet area on each side.

5) I got some weather strip - double D shaped one (Frost King 5/16 x 1/4). Attached that the front center metal brace to have a better seal against the secondary base seal bulb.

All the above did the trick! Tested at 70mph on the freeway even with this super windy day here - no more whistling! And overall it's not much louder than the stock panels.

Nice! Glad it's worked out well. Good idea on the bicycle tubing covering the rivets. I noticed that when installing mine and put a few layers of good ol' duct tape. Might replace with bike tubing, as I have a bunch of that laying around. Cheers

 

[Jeffola]

I bought a second hand Sunrider for my 2 door. I installed it (after watching a ton of videos and reading a ton of posts) and while I understand the rear seal is probably in need of replacement on the sunrider, it didn't leak. Where I had my leaks was the a pillars. The drivers not as bad as the passenger. I had not seen this thread, and wanted to ask some questions and provide som insight. First of all Bestop was slightly helpful, but days between calls and additional requests for photos had me frustrated. My rear seal, while not tightly pressed didn't leak to my knowledge. We had a pretty heavy rain and the front A pillars did. Passenger side far worse than the drivers side. I also noticed that unlatching the passengers side is more difficult and the latch doesn't like to fully release even with the top being pulled down.

Once Bestop found it it was a used sunrider, they said they dont support 2nd owners or installation on 2nd vehicles. Again, looking at the back edge of the item, I think a new weatherstrip would be a good preventative. The front doesn't even make contact with the header gasket and I dont (and quite honestly shouldn't have to) add weatherstrip to the header. This thread is the only place I have heard about adjusting the front latch plates. Moving them forward would and should bring the header forward against the seal. Am I just setting my self up for more disappointment or can this be installed properly and without future issues?

 

[BigHoof]

I bought a second hand Sunrider for my 2 door. I installed it (after watching a ton of videos and reading a ton of posts) and while I understand the rear seal is probably in need of replacement on the sunrider, it didn't leak. Where I had my leaks was the a pillars. The drivers not as bad as the passenger. I had not seen this thread, and wanted to ask some questions and provide som insight. First of all Bestop was slightly helpful, but days between calls and additional requests for photos had me frustrated. My rear seal, while not tightly pressed didn't leak to my knowledge. We had a pretty heavy rain and the front A pillars did. Passenger side far worse than the drivers side. I also noticed that unlatching the passengers side is more difficult and the latch doesn't like to fully release even with the top being pulled down.

Once Bestop found it it was a used sunrider, they said they dont support 2nd owners or installation on 2nd vehicles. Again, looking at the back edge of the item, I think a new weatherstrip would be a good preventative. The front doesn't even make contact with the header gasket and I dont (and quite honestly shouldn't have to) add weatherstrip to the header. This thread is the only place I have heard about adjusting the front latch plates. Moving them forward would and should bring the header forward against the seal. Am I just setting my self up for more disappointment or can this be installed properly and without future issues?

I thought you took it back to the seller?

 

[Jeffola]

I thought you took it back to the seller?

Work trip, he comes home Friday (tomorrow) and will (so he claims) reach out to me to meet up. I am sure he will, he’s been very decent. I bought it because I thought the functionality would be great, and the almost day I had it on (until it rained) it was great. Someone mentioned the adjustment in my post letting folks know Bestop doesn’t support re-installs and resale pieces, but with no detail like I’ve seen here. I said it before and I said it again. They can’t all leak, there’s got to be more to it.

I appreciate your knowledge of my previous comments on my post, but after only having it on Saturday afternoon till Sunday afternoon, I miss the ability to open it up. Having said all that, not at the risk of a leak.

 

[BigHoof]

If you want to give it a try, this is your thread. Be sure to replace the rear plastic washers with something about half the thickness. I used 2 stainless fender washers per side. As for the front leaks, can't help you there. Had some noise but was mostly the center flapping on the cross bar. Fixed by opening the Velcro and inserting some foam to tighten it up a bit.

 

[Jeffola]

If you want to give it a try, this is your thread. Be sure to replace the rear plastic washers with something about half the thickness. I used 2 stainless fender washers per side. As for the front leaks, can't help you there. Had some noise but was mostly the center flapping on the cross bar. Fixed by opening the Velcro and inserting some foam to tighten it up a bit.

I 3d printed 2.2MM washers, used 100% infill knowing that they would crush down somewhat. I am wondering about adjusting the front latch plates forward, my passenger side latch was REALLY difficult to release, even with the top being pulled down at the handle. Moving that forward may just to the trick. There is no gasket or seal on the top at the front. The lack of making contact is the reason for the leaking. I now, I can give it a shot tonight and if its doesn't work out Adam will be back tomorrow and I will drive 20 minutes and give it back to him. It's the idea of going from top on to open air that I love, not the issues that have gone along with it.

 

[BigHoof]

If the latch is that tight then should the top not be snug against the seal? Are the rivets near the front side holding it up? Just doesn't make sense why some leak and some do not.

This might be obvious to some but be sure to lower the sunvisor when you try to open the front latch. That extra bit of clearance solved my release issues. The top also stretches a little over time and then is much easier to open. Like you say, it is so nice to not have to mess with the panels to get the open air experience.

 

[Jeffola]

If the latch is that tight then should the top not be snug against the seal? Are the rivets near the front side holding it up? Just doesn't make sense why some leak and some do not.

This might be obvious to some but be sure to lower the sunvisor when you try to open the front latch. That extra bit of clearance solved my release issues. The top also stretches a little over time and then is much easier to open. Like you say, it is so nice to not have to mess with the panels to get the open air experience.

Your first short paragraph asks more and better questions than Bestop did. @Bestop_Team never responded to my private message but you have been more helpful. I will try it again tonight. thanks.

 

[Ksjrb03]

If the latch is that tight then should the top not be snug against the seal? Are the rivets near the front side holding it up? Just doesn't make sense why some leak and some do not.

It’s actually the opposite. If the Bestop latch “J hook” does not catch the Bronco bracket square in the middle of the bend, then the latch does not draw down the top all the way because of the restriction. This also causes the release issues as the end of the latch catches against the bracket. It is a very tight tolerance between perfect and problems.

 

[Jeffola]

So I took the panels off this morning and re-installed the Sunrider.

1. Looked at the adjustability of those plates and the passenger side was all the way forward, the passenger side was MAYBE 1mm from full forward. So while there is play in those tabs, it's maybe 3mm tops. Moving the tabs full forward OR full backward has ZERO impact on how the header secures.
2. On the drivers side the rivets clear, but not on the passengers side, they strike, this could be a limiting factor in how the top sits and its the side with the really bad leak so its suspect.
3. As far as play in the top frame prior to tightening, its a bout a 3mm adjustment, and neither all the way forward OR all the way back make any difference. Either way I placed a shot of paper in the gap, closed and latched the top and VOILA! the paper slides out with zero restrictions.

In my last communication to our friends at @Bestop_Team , they asked for a photo of......... Well I dont know. You see, Their last email to me looked like the image below. Not super helpful. The good news is if you immediately reply back, they still dont get back to you for a day or so. They have no continuity of service, and I'd guess that most of the CSR's on the phone have never installed one of these. if they have, im guessing they leak too.

So the top is going back, I was willing to pay for new seals (the rear seal on the top had been compressed and isn't puffy enough).

 

[SillyPosition]

Im using the trektop for about 5 months now.
So far its been great, with a small foam at the front I was able to reduce all wind noise coming from the front, and the noise level was very reasonable and almost the same as with the hard top.
So far so good, until...last weekend, suddendly alot of noise coming from the front, nothing has changed physically with the car. I used the top open 3-4 times but aside from that, everything was more of the same, nothing unusual.
I took a closer look and I see a gap where light really comes through from the cabin, at the driver's side (which is also where I hear the noise coming from)
Im not sure how it happened, the latch there always released a bit easier than the one on the passenger's side, but now its not sealed at all.

Any ideas what I can do?
Is there a way to make the latch tighter (and as a result bringing the top tighter to the windshield and closing the gap)? I thought maybe washers between that metal plate and the screw, to make it "lower" but not sure if thats a reasonable approach.

 

[Heckler]

If you have a newer bronco (2022-2023) you need to make sure you have the Sunrider with the notched header, (like in the 1,st pic, if you have the flat one like the 2nd pic it will never work correctly. I returned the one I got with the flat header and the new one works perfectly no noise at all.

Im using the trektop for about 5 months now.
So far its been great, with a small foam at the front I was able to reduce all wind noise coming from the front, and the noise level was very reasonable and almost the same as with the hard top.
So far so good, until...last weekend, suddendly alot of noise coming from the front, nothing has changed physically with the car. I used the top open 3-4 times but aside from that, everything was more of the same, nothing unusual.
I took a closer look and I see a gap where light really comes through from the cabin, at the driver's side (which is also where I hear the noise coming from)
Im not sure how it happened, the latch there always released a bit easier than the one on the passenger's side, but now its not sealed at all.

Any ideas what I can do?
Is there a way to make the latch tighter (and as a result bringing the top tighter to the windshield and closing the gap)? I thought maybe washers between that metal plate and the screw, to make it "lower" but not sure if thats a reasonable approach.

 

[SillyPosition]

If you have a newer bronco (2022-2023) you need to make sure you have the Sunrider with the notched header, (like in the 1,st pic, if you have the flat one like the 2nd pic it will never work correctly. I returned the one I got with the flat header and the new one works perfectly no noise at all.

Mine has no ports for the middle hinges. I have the second version with a 2023 bronco.
Is that true also for the trektop?
@Bestop_Team can you assist here if I should ask for a replacement part?

@Hecklerehat would you suggest me do in the meanwhile?

 

[Heckler]

I’m not sure about the Trektop but I would assume it would be the same, if you have the Trektop already and are having issues with wind noise I’d say return it and order one directly from Bestop to be sure you get the most current design with the notches.

Problem is there is no difference in part numbers between the notched and flat header tops so retailers that may have older inventory have no idea what if what they got works with newer Bronco’s.

Mine has no ports for the middle hinges. I have the second version with a 2023 bronco.
Is that true also for the trektop?
@Bestop_Team can you assist here if I should ask for a replacement part?

@Hecklerehat would you suggest me do in the meanwhile?

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