2025 B&O front speaker upgrades worth it? And can it they be replaced without issue, 1 for 1?

[Fast Eddie]

Those would be good speakers but I think you are overspending on a 4". I went with these and I'm very impressed:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CV6WYHPP?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

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[EOD98]

Thanks! I will take a look at those. Did you replace the 6.5” kick panel speakers as well?
I was thinking about the Focal ACX 165
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

 

[Fast Eddie]

Thanks! I will take a look at those. Did you replace the 6.5” kick panel speakers as well?
I was thinking about the Focal ACX 165
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

Most people find the floorboard speakers to be quite good and don't see a meaningful improvement when changing.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Again, I very much disagree with what 23OBX says.

Doesn't matter, no need to twist the wires together it's just a high level signal for equalizing sub amp and it doesn't care.....

If buying sub $300 4" for two, just buy Dayton, they are better than cheap premium mass market brands where Audison AP4 and AP4X are very nice.

Besides the MB Quart sub I also wasted money on Hertz 100.3 coax that were way too harsh but I was curious....overall a waste of $250 can't even sell it locally just gonna junk them.

 

[EOD98]

For subwoofer replacement, when I cut and twist wires, is it easy to tell negating positive wires? Don’t want to mess it up

 

[Fast Eddie]

If you are going with a DVC sub there are no wires to cut and twist...

 

[23OBX2.7]

For subwoofer replacement, when I cut and twist wires, is it easy to tell negating positive wires? Don’t want to mess it up

The wiring color chart is on the forum.

 

[EOD98]

This is the one I went with
DS18 SLC-8S Subwoofer in Black - 8-Inch Speaker, 400W Max Power, 200W RMS Power, Aluminum 4 Layer Voice Coil, Black Steel Frame, SVC, 4 Ohm Impedance, Ferrite Magnet (1 Speaker) (SLC8S)
https://a.co/d/cLXMZfH

Should I have gone with a different one?

 

[Fast Eddie]

Hope that extreme excursion will not smash into the interior panel.

 

[derichio02]

This is the one I went with
DS18 SLC-8S Subwoofer in Black - 8-Inch Speaker, 400W Max Power, 200W RMS Power, Aluminum 4 Layer Voice Coil, Black Steel Frame, SVC, 4 Ohm Impedance, Ferrite Magnet (1 Speaker) (SLC8S)
https://a.co/d/cLXMZfH

Should I have gone with a different one?

I have a 2025, and have had an others (22,23,24) with B&O as well. In the 2025 it’s not worth it to just swap to a new subwoofer unless you plan to get a new external amp to power the subwoofer. The 2025 B&O system is a substantial improvement over the previous years.

Also for the front speakers, you will gain clarity at the expense of volume. I have tested kicker, hertz, and infinity. In previous years it was a massive upgrade and volume wasn’t affected as much. Do all 3 dash speakers or you will have an imbalance in volume that causes it to not sound great since there is such a discrepancy in output. Also, polyfill and sound deadening are your friend, even with stock speakers.

 

[5GENIDN]

So I am curious about the B&O in '25..... the 4 inch speakers (of which there are 5) is Ford using a similar set up as they did prior to 25? Front dash left and right were actually coaxial. center and rear pod surrounds were full range. Are they the same or have they changed them?

The old system (pre 25) had a single left and a single right signal that used inline passive crossovers to separate the signal between the 6.5 kick panel woofer and the dash tweeter and midrange from the B&O amp. The Amp only powered a left signal, right signal and then separately powered the sub. The other three speakers (center dash and two pods - 4 inch full range) were powered by the head unit. What exactly are the changes in the 25 and newer units?

 

[5GENIDN]

I would think anytime you are replacing any of these speakers you would want to change out the crossovers.... The "new" speaker would probably have a different frequency response profile.

 

[EOD98]

I have a 2025, and have had an others (22,23,24) with B&O as well. In the 2025 it’s not worth it to just swap to a new subwoofer unless you plan to get a new external amp to power the subwoofer. The 2025 B&O system is a substantial improvement over the previous years.

Also for the front speakers, you will gain clarity at the expense of volume. I have tested kicker, hertz, and infinity. In previous years it was a massive upgrade and volume wasn’t affected as much. Do all 3 dash speakers or you will have an imbalance in volume that causes it to not sound great since there is such a discrepancy in output. Also, polyfill and sound deadening are your friend, even with stock speakers.

I plan on returning what I've bought and just go with an amp and a separate sub and enclosure setup. Will use poly fill and sound deadening in the meantime. Solid advice and thanks for taking the time to provide it!

 

[derichio02]

So I am curious about the B&O in '25..... the 4 inch speakers (of which there are 5) is Ford using a similar set up as they did prior to 25? Front dash left and right were actually coaxial. center and rear pod surrounds were full range. Are they the same or have they changed them?

The old system (pre 25) had a single left and a single right signal that used inline passive crossovers to separate the signal between the 6.5 kick panel woofer and the dash tweeter and midrange from the B&O amp. The Amp only powered a left signal, right signal and then separately powered the sub. The other three speakers (center dash and two pods - 4 inch full range) were powered by the head unit. What exactly are the changes in the 25 and newer units?

The 2025 is very different. The amp now powers all speakers. And is quite bigger. The Front and Rear L and R are different speakers and the amp itself is much bigger. I can provide some pics of the speakers later this evening. For touts that the dash L/R counts as two speakers as well as the kick panel. The now call it a 12 speaker system in their documentation.

Here is the Amp:

 

[derichio02]

I plan on returning what I've bought and just go with an amp and a separate sub and enclosure setup. Will use poly fill and sound deadening in the meantime. Solid advice and thanks for taking the time to provide it!

Don’t get me wrong, you will get clarity with new speakers but will have to turn the volume up while listening. I changed the front 3 and rear pods to Kicker KCS40’s and then added a separate sub amp and sub. I DO think you can get away with just a powered sub. I ran that setup for months and with just polyfill and sound deadening the other speakers. I changed the other speakers because I had extra just laying around and I was bored lol.

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