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definitely not the professor, but I did stay at a holiday inn express last night. If you keep taking the classes over and over eventually you pass and something sinks in. I am just trying to put my education to good use.

I need to learn how to weld. The art of getting it right is just cool. Sierrabronco thinks he can teach me, but.. I spent last weekend drilling out my wheel locks because apparently I must have left the key on the wheel at some point and drove off. You just can’t teach stupid.
If you weld the key onto the lock, you won’t lose it!
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Fordified1

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Definitely a gem here on the forum. He’s helping with our suspension(s) and I always end up needing to go to the internet for further getting learned to comprehend the information as I don’t want to take up more of his time asking him to educate a plebeian.
Well damn, Now I gotta google plebeian.
 

mpeugeot

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definitely not the professor, but I did stay at a holiday inn express last night. If you keep taking the classes over and over eventually you pass and something sinks in. I am just trying to put my education to good use.

I need to learn how to weld. The art of getting it right is just cool. Sierrabronco thinks he can teach me, but.. I spent last weekend drilling out my wheel locks because apparently I must have left the key on the wheel at some point and drove off. You just can’t teach stupid.
Welding is easy by comparison to your classes.
 
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87-Z28

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adding this to thread.

A diff drop doesn’t really maintain oem geometry. It only helps improve CV half shaft angles at full shock extended length. I would keep the extended shock length under 24.3ā€ and run the ufdu. Better solution for 37-38s if you are pushing things and has a much improved intermediate shaft.

I know I am in the minority here but not a diff drop fan. It is really just a band aid fix that is only minimally effective. Need to really drop diff (2+ inches in many cases) to get back to oem CV angles and then plunge becomes a real concern. Not worth the effort.

first figure shows CV angles as a function of shock displacement during a suspension cycle. Zero shock displacement is at full extension. Oem CV geometry is shown (angles snd plunge). Also shown is a typical aftermarket shock with the extended length of 24.3ā€ (4WP coilover but many fall into this range including fox and king). Also shown is the 4WP shock with a 1ā€ spacer increasing effective extended length to 25.3ā€.

IMG_8709.webp


notice that CV angles significantly increase with increasing shock extended length. This is why the diff drop is considered since it can decrease those angles. Also notice the CV plunge remains fairly tight and less than +/- 3 mm. This is because of the OEM location for inner CV pivot point on half shafts. This point has been located along the line of action between LCA and UCA pivots. Thereby necessarily minimizing CV plunge.

adding a diff drop will move the inner CV pivot point downward and thus begin to effect CV plunge. The question is how much can a diff drop really help CV angles and how bad does plunge get?

second plot shows 24.3ā€ extended length shock with a 1ā€ diff drop. Also shows a 25.3ā€ EL shock with a 2ā€ diff drop. Notice CV plunge begins to increase as diff drop distance increases. CV limits for plunge are in the +/- 10 mm range. So a 1ā€ diff drop is still within limits but 2ā€ is not. Starting to get serious plunge >20 mm. Also notice that it really takes near 2ā€ of diff drop to get back to stock CV angles.

IMG_8710.webp
 

SierraBronco

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adding this to thread.

A diff drop doesn’t really maintain oem geometry. It only helps improve CV half shaft angles at full shock extended length. I would keep the extended shock length under 24.3ā€ and run the ufdu. Better solution for 37-38s if you are pushing things and has a much improved intermediate shaft.

I know I am in the minority here but not a diff drop fan. It is really just a band aid fix that is only minimally effective. Need to really drop diff (2+ inches in many cases) to get back to oem CV angles and then plunge becomes a real concern. Not worth the effort.

first figure shows CV angles as a function of shock displacement during a suspension cycle. Zero shock displacement is at full extension. Oem CV geometry is shown (angles snd plunge). Also shown is a typical aftermarket shock with the extended length of 24.3ā€ (4WP coilover but many fall into this range including fox and king). Also shown is the 4WP shock with a 1ā€ spacer increasing effective extended length to 25.3ā€.

IMG_8709.webp


notice that CV angles significantly increase with increasing shock extended length. This is why the diff drop is considered since it can decrease those angles. Also notice the CV plunge remains fairly tight and less than +/- 3 mm. This is because of the OEM location for inner CV pivot point on half shafts. This point has been located along the line of action between LCA and UCA pivots. Thereby necessarily minimizing CV plunge.

adding a diff drop will move the inner CV pivot point downward and thus begin to effect CV plunge. The question is how much can a diff drop really help CV angles and how bad does plunge get?

second plot shows 24.3ā€ extended length shock with a 1ā€ diff drop. Also shows a 25.3ā€ EL shock with a 2ā€ diff drop. Notice CV plunge begins to increase as diff drop distance increases. CV limits for plunge are in the +/- 10 mm range. So a 1ā€ diff drop is still within limits but 2ā€ is not. Starting to get serious plunge >20 mm. Also notice that it really takes near 2ā€ of diff drop to get back to stock CV angles.

IMG_8710.webp
You’re definitely on to something.

The big thing that we ran into with the long travel build wasn’t CV angle, but the plunge. The bigger bells with the 32 spline axles helped a teensy bit with angle, but the real gain was the plunge. And even then Vasher locked out the bottom LCA’s as it was so close with 17ā€ of travel that just moving the alignment cams could have caused issues.
 
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87-Z28

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For reference this was first posted in the following thread. Added here to be thorough.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...u-had-any-problems-with-your-cv-axles.136698/

For OEM style CVs, the axles are free to move (not restrained) along their axis (longitudinally). This allows for some misalignment along CV axis as the wheel moves up and down during suspension cycling.

For example, consider the imaginary distance from wheel hub center to the half shaft insertion into FDU. Call this ā€œplungeā€. If this distance decreases during a suspension cycle then there is positive plunge. If it increases then negative plunge. If the plunge were rigidly fixed or constrained, then CV would pull apart during negative plunge.

The oem CVs have a maximum allowable angle that is related to plunge. If they operate near zero plunge (+/- <10 mm) then they have the greatest allowable angle. As plunge increases, either pos or neg, their allowable angle decreases. They are fairly symmetric wrt pos or neg plunge. I have seen some actual design plots of the ford oem CV allowable angles vs plunge, 10 mm of plunge is a reasonable limit state and will get you close to 30 deg of angle.
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