FYSA, you can't add the hitch module from the Procal. You need to use FDRS and a mongoose. The fact that your dealer doesn't know this is mind-blowing.
It's very well made but the instructions suck. Do not torque the clamps beyond OEM specifications. I ended up selling mine as it's just too tall for me.
Have the full RCI and side MOLLE panels. I love it! As others have said, take your time, use loctite, and don't over-torque the hardware. I take my freedom rails and tent off in the summer but putting it all back on is only an hour.
It's the same bracket. The centerpiece for the ACC can be unbolted (as I did), or you can run it without the bracket at all. You'd probably have t o do a mod in Forscan to keep an error code from occuring
It's worth it for daily driving. Not a huge gain but merging and passing is way better! Other tuners just fool the ECU, and there's no transmission strategy. Doing both would be optimal but at a minimum, the FP tune is the better value.
Just put mine on the other day. They do not fit with the Whipple IC without a bit of Dremel work. The edge that contacts the IC needs to be beveled to accommodate the larger Whipple housing. Not a big deal but definitely not what I was expecting for the $$$.
RTR has always been overpriced junk or rebadged parts from real manufacturers. I'm sorry about your luck, brother. Get some sandpaper and Rustoleum BBQ grill paint, you'll never be able to tell once you're done.
I'm experiencing the same thing on my 24 Everglades. When I went to install my Rockworx, I found one 're-threaded' from the factory. Rockworkx went in 2/3 of the way and bound up (like welded in tight).
Just installed the Procal with a Whipple Mega cooler. I am much happier with how it performs for daily driving. I will say WOT doesn't feel drastically different.