Are you hitting the cross members often? Mine are smoked, what I did is put uhmv "inside" each channel. Still hit them, but can't even tell anymore.
37s were probably the biggest key though
Doesn't seem to be an issue, however it's relatively new platform so I'm guessing the next year or so you may be seeing more videos once more roll over 100k+ miles
What offset and tires?
I live in MN. Fluid film was my go to but did wool wax this time. I get it in 5gal pales and use an air gun to disperse. Do this for our work trucks also.
I like the wool wax a little more, it's slightly more watery it seems, easier to apply.
I've seen first half what salt does, I also try to...
I ended up having it sandblasted and redone by a local guy. Much thicker powder coat and has held up.
Reminder I do live in MN and we use allot of salt, do for something not to rust it needs to be coated very very well
Crenca- happy you explained how the 4a works, I was just going to point that out.....
For anyone wondering, or cliff notes, go into "power distribution" on your dash and use 4a, watch when and when not the xfer case is sending power to the front.
Low gears, and hard ish accelerating will put...
Sounds like this minor vibration is kinda par for the coarse- good good
Good point- compared to the FAD on non locking diffs (which would have 2 points of disengagement), never really thought about that.
One point I think may make a difference is with the 4A xfer case, the tires may be...
I 100% always apply the parking brake...
However, I'd say its 50/50 weather I apply it before or after in park if I'm being honest. Always put it on before letting off the brake though.
Maybe your on to something
Sasquatch with 37 ko2s.
What is an acceptable amount of vibration/mechanical noise when running in 4a/4wd?
I have maybe a 1.5/10 vibration when in 4a, very very very minimal and most likely others wouldn't notice it, and really only feel it over 50mph. Does not seem rotational (doesn't...
Stock SAS rims with 37 ko2s- zero rub full flex sway bar disconnected full lock
Need to raise ride height (I'm at max 6112s) to push the UCAS out so it doesn't rub frame/ sway bar disconnect bolt (note my stock UCA are basically maxed now)
Need 3/4" body lift to stop the minimal rub on the...
Put in a severe duty rack..
Any idea what I can do with the old one? Seems to be a waste to toss a good rack, also it's big enough to not want to save as a paper weight.
Pretty sure you can't reuse it on a different bronco either...
Decided I didn't want to wait till 150k to do this, dealer wanted about $800 to do it so figured I'd DIY. There wasn't a whole lot of info regarding the bronco specifically, so I figured I'd add some info.
Tools-
8mm pivoting wrench, 13mm pivoting wrench, 10 mm pivoting wrench 8,13,10mm deep...
Here's the update- got my check today for a full refund of my billstein 6112s, about $1600.
Check was distributed from the actual dealership I brought it to, not corporate
Looks great, only thing I see missing is a severe duty rack.... Why not just do that instead of only tie rods? HD rods may be fine to push the link further with 35s, but with 38s and I'm guessing a pretty heavy tire combo and lift, I wouldn't feel to good about the regular rack.....
Everything im seeing is if you keep the fdu in place, even with loosening the fdu bracket, the tie rods need to be removed.
Not correct? Or is it fine to keep tie rods only if you drop the fdu?
Not needing the full kit, just looking for the size of oetiker clamps
Does anyone know the exact size of the hoss 3.0 or Severe Duty rack tie rod boot Clamps? I have a couple 2.0 rack clamps (the oem style ones) But I have a sneaking suspicion the 3.0 will need bigger clamps? I do not want to use worm style If I do not have to.
Plan on picking up and installing...