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Decided I didn't want to wait till 150k to do this, dealer wanted about $800 to do it so figured I'd DIY. There wasn't a whole lot of info regarding the bronco specifically, so I figured I'd add some info.
Tools-
8mm pivoting wrench, 13mm pivoting wrench, 10 mm pivoting wrench 8,13,10mm deep socket, 19mm pivoting wrench for the fill plug, 10-20ft lb torque wrench, small impact, swivels and6" extension for sockets, air compressor, I "think" 20mm socket for swaybar?
Optional tools- Mityvac 7201
Tips- USE THE MITYVAC! it makes things MUCH cleaner and easier. Go to Ace Hardware and get 10ft of 3/8" clear hose simular to the thickness of what came with the mityvac. Use a heat gun to create a candy cane shape on the end, it needs to be long enough to get to the bottom of the pan. The tubes that came with the mityvac did NOT stay together when putting fluid back in, which can lead to a mess.
Remove the swaybar bolts and let it drop when removing the pan
Remove the 2 bolts holding the 2x oil cooler lines and pull them out of the trans, this will give you more room for the 4x pan bolts up there
How I did it- let truck sit after driving to cool off, trans temp was at about 90 when i did it.
Pull into garage up onto tire ramps to get more clearnance
Remove all skids encompassing transmission
Use air compressor to blow debris off around fill plug
Remove fill plug w/ 19mm pivoting wrench- the pivoting wrench was almost needed for this, it's at a tough angle. Took ALOT of ugga dugga to remove
Snake mityvac hose into fill plug to it bottoms out, make sure it's secure and suck out fluid.
I pulled about about 6 qts, drained mityvac and added the exact same amount and fill the trans pan back up.
Reinstall
Ran through P, D, R, M a few times to get the fluid moving and drove home, drove about 30 miles.
Next day- Repeat the same process but don't fill it back up.
Drop the swaybar disconnect via the 1x bolt and nut on each side, you may have to disconnect some wires from the frame. Use a jack and some 4x4's to support and lower the swaybar- you only need to drop it maybe 5"
Use air to blow around the pan gasket and cooler lines to get some debris out
Remove the 2x 10 mm bolts holding the oil cooler lines, pull lines from trans (took a little ugga dugga), carefull some fluid will spill
Crack all the 8mm and 13mm pan bolts/studs that you can. MAKE SURE to mark the stud bolts on the pan so you know where they go
Take small impact and remove all the 8/13mms leave the 2 studs right in the middle to hold the pan on. You may have to use the pivoting wrench on some of these
Remove last 2 and drop pan/gasket, with the sway bar out of the way you should have room, there will be nearly no fluid it it
Remove 2x 8mm bolts from filter, make sure to remember which one goes where, they are different sizes
Pull filter AND bushing, reinstall new filter AND bushing, use some ATF to lube these and get them to fit together nicely. Careful when removing, you'll have .25-.5 qts spill when pulling the filter
Clean mating surfaces of the pan/gasket/tranny, I used a rag and carb cleaner which may not ben the best way, make sure to clean off magnet in pan
Reinstall the pan, start putting bolts back in, snug them but don't tighten.
Tighten all bolts in a start pattern,
Torque to ~10-20 ft lbs-I bought a harbor freight special smaller torque wrench and it didn't seem to be working, so I ended up just tightening by hand to what I tought was about right. Last thing i wanted to do was strip out any of these
Reinstall cooler lines
Drain and fill mityvac with exactly how much was pulled out, PLUS a little for the fluid lost in the filter, I added 6 qts but only pulled out about 5.5 with the mityvac
Fill trans pan back up, check for leaks. I didn't tighten 1 of the 8mm bolts and it was dripping pretty good, tightened and no more drip
Carefull, because the vehicle is at and angle, and your adding a little more to the pan than was there before (filter and extra draining) the last .1qt MAY overflow from the fill port
reinstall fill plug
reinstall swaybar
pull it outside and let it run for a bit, go through gears again a few times. Drive it slow and let new fluid work there.
I drove about 3 miles before getting on the highway. Will check the proper way at operating temp at some point
Should I have done this instead of waiting till 150k? IMO Yes.
Fluid wasn't terrible, still a hint of red but it was definitely DARK, smelled fine. Filter was dark also, had some metal sludge on both the pan and filter magnet.
Shifting is smoother, I also haven't noticed and hard downshifts when going up or down the hill from my driveway, which were getting pretty bad before.
Feel free to add anything that I missed or did wrong!!
Tools-
8mm pivoting wrench, 13mm pivoting wrench, 10 mm pivoting wrench 8,13,10mm deep socket, 19mm pivoting wrench for the fill plug, 10-20ft lb torque wrench, small impact, swivels and6" extension for sockets, air compressor, I "think" 20mm socket for swaybar?
Optional tools- Mityvac 7201
Tips- USE THE MITYVAC! it makes things MUCH cleaner and easier. Go to Ace Hardware and get 10ft of 3/8" clear hose simular to the thickness of what came with the mityvac. Use a heat gun to create a candy cane shape on the end, it needs to be long enough to get to the bottom of the pan. The tubes that came with the mityvac did NOT stay together when putting fluid back in, which can lead to a mess.
Remove the swaybar bolts and let it drop when removing the pan
Remove the 2 bolts holding the 2x oil cooler lines and pull them out of the trans, this will give you more room for the 4x pan bolts up there
How I did it- let truck sit after driving to cool off, trans temp was at about 90 when i did it.
Pull into garage up onto tire ramps to get more clearnance
Remove all skids encompassing transmission
Use air compressor to blow debris off around fill plug
Remove fill plug w/ 19mm pivoting wrench- the pivoting wrench was almost needed for this, it's at a tough angle. Took ALOT of ugga dugga to remove
Snake mityvac hose into fill plug to it bottoms out, make sure it's secure and suck out fluid.
I pulled about about 6 qts, drained mityvac and added the exact same amount and fill the trans pan back up.
Reinstall
Ran through P, D, R, M a few times to get the fluid moving and drove home, drove about 30 miles.
Next day- Repeat the same process but don't fill it back up.
Drop the swaybar disconnect via the 1x bolt and nut on each side, you may have to disconnect some wires from the frame. Use a jack and some 4x4's to support and lower the swaybar- you only need to drop it maybe 5"
Use air to blow around the pan gasket and cooler lines to get some debris out
Remove the 2x 10 mm bolts holding the oil cooler lines, pull lines from trans (took a little ugga dugga), carefull some fluid will spill
Crack all the 8mm and 13mm pan bolts/studs that you can. MAKE SURE to mark the stud bolts on the pan so you know where they go
Take small impact and remove all the 8/13mms leave the 2 studs right in the middle to hold the pan on. You may have to use the pivoting wrench on some of these
Remove last 2 and drop pan/gasket, with the sway bar out of the way you should have room, there will be nearly no fluid it it
Remove 2x 8mm bolts from filter, make sure to remember which one goes where, they are different sizes
Pull filter AND bushing, reinstall new filter AND bushing, use some ATF to lube these and get them to fit together nicely. Careful when removing, you'll have .25-.5 qts spill when pulling the filter
Clean mating surfaces of the pan/gasket/tranny, I used a rag and carb cleaner which may not ben the best way, make sure to clean off magnet in pan
Reinstall the pan, start putting bolts back in, snug them but don't tighten.
Tighten all bolts in a start pattern,
Torque to ~10-20 ft lbs-I bought a harbor freight special smaller torque wrench and it didn't seem to be working, so I ended up just tightening by hand to what I tought was about right. Last thing i wanted to do was strip out any of these
Reinstall cooler lines
Drain and fill mityvac with exactly how much was pulled out, PLUS a little for the fluid lost in the filter, I added 6 qts but only pulled out about 5.5 with the mityvac
Fill trans pan back up, check for leaks. I didn't tighten 1 of the 8mm bolts and it was dripping pretty good, tightened and no more drip
Carefull, because the vehicle is at and angle, and your adding a little more to the pan than was there before (filter and extra draining) the last .1qt MAY overflow from the fill port
reinstall fill plug
reinstall swaybar
pull it outside and let it run for a bit, go through gears again a few times. Drive it slow and let new fluid work there.
I drove about 3 miles before getting on the highway. Will check the proper way at operating temp at some point
Should I have done this instead of waiting till 150k? IMO Yes.
Fluid wasn't terrible, still a hint of red but it was definitely DARK, smelled fine. Filter was dark also, had some metal sludge on both the pan and filter magnet.
Shifting is smoother, I also haven't noticed and hard downshifts when going up or down the hill from my driveway, which were getting pretty bad before.
Feel free to add anything that I missed or did wrong!!
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