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Broncian

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I couldn’t face sticking a textured Aeroskin II hood deflector onto my Oxford White Wildtrak.

So I spent weeks searching for an IAG Gloss White version or a simple gloss black, which would at least match the Wildtrak gloss grill. Both appear discontinued. Also, there was a gloss black version that doesn’t have the lip, defeating the windscreen protection goal.

Then I found that there is a non textured version but, again, couldn’t find any in stock. Until my dealership said they could get one in 2 days. When I picked it up, it turned out to be the textured version.

It appears that, if you can find an Aeroskin II in stock (at least in Canada) it’s going to be textured.

So I came up with a plan to sand it down, prime and paint it. In total, it has had 17 layers of adhesion promoter, high build primer, paint and clear coat. Between coats of primer and paint, I used 1000 and 2000 grit. I degreased and used alcohol between sanding.

It took about 4 days and I left plenty of time between the primer, paint and clear coats.

That being said, either the material doesn’t like to be painted or (more likely) I made an error somewhere as I find the coatings very fragile and I’ve already had to do touch-ups after installing.

Suggestions welcome to improve the process.

Hopefully, this post helps anyone wishing to do the same, or put people off enough for them to be more satisfied with the matte textured look.

The photos show parts of the process and materials used.


Sanding from about 200 to 800 grit to remove as much texture as I face removing.



Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1588


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1592



Priming and making the error of not using an adhesion promoter at first and sanding off the original red primer to start the priming process again. I couldn’t remove the red primer that had settled inside the pores.

Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1596


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1598


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1629


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1621


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1624


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1626


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1622


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1640



After about 7 coats of primer to try to hide the remaining texture, I moved onto about 4 coats of Oxford White and then 5 coats of clear coat. I sanded 1000 and 2000 between the paint and the clear coat.

Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1646


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1652


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1686


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1648


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1684


Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1692



Installed after compound polishing off the ceramic coat that was on top of the PPF. Then cleaning with a surface preparer and finally wiping everything down with alcohol.

Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) IMG_1581
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Brian_B

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I did something similar for wife’s Sport for grille inserts

the plant was fairly fragile going on, but it has held up ok driving it around. She’s at around 25k miles on it. I rattle-canned it with wheel rim paint and put a clear coat on top. Just a couple of touchups with a paint pen from rock hits over the last couple years.

May need an enamel top coat or special primer or something - not sure what the plastic type of that is

Hope yours holds up as well or better.
 
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Broncian

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I did something similar for wife’s Sport for grille inserts

the plant was fairly fragile going on, but it has held up ok driving it around. She’s at around 25k miles on it. I rattle-canned it with wheel rim paint and put a clear coat on top. Just a couple of touchups with a paint pen from rock hits over the last couple years.

May need an enamel top coat or special primer or something - not sure what the plastic type of that is

Hope yours holds up as well or better.
It’s made out of thermoplastic polyolefins (TPO) according to the Husky website. This is why I chose to sand down the red primer coat and apply the adhesion promoter. That being said, it still is very fragile and I’m wondering if the Dupli-color paints are up the task of being a coating to this material.
 

Saltwater Junkie

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Pretty work!. I didn't like the black plastic look or the textured finish.On my first sheild,I did the exact same thing you did but when I went to get the shield PPF'd, the vendor wouldn't PPF the shield due to magnifying all imperfections. So I grabbed a new smooth shield and took it to my shooter for a "professional" finish before taking it in for PPF.

IMHO. If you can grab a smooth shield, this is the way to go.

Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) Screenshot_20251116_211237_Studio
Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) Screenshot_20251116_211241_Studio
Ford Bronco Paint Matching an Aeroskin II Hood Deflector (DIY) Screenshot_20251116_211244_Studio
 
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Broncian

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Pretty work!. I didn't like the black plastic look or the textured finish.On my first sheild,I did the exact same thing you did but when I went to get the shield PPF'd, the vendor wouldn't PPF the shield due to magnifying all imperfections. So I grabbed a new smooth shield and took it to my shooter for a "professional" finish before taking it in for PPF.

IMHO. If you can grab a smooth shield, this is the way to go.

Screenshot_20251116_211237_Studio.webp
Screenshot_20251116_211241_Studio.webp
Screenshot_20251116_211244_Studio.webp
Wow. That is far nicer than mine. Especially with that colour. White isn’t so bad as it doesn’t show up the imperfections. Mine looks nice from 3 feet away.

I read somewhere on here that there was a change in supplier or someone was bought out. So I’m guessing they dropped a lot of products. Shame as they appeared to have kept the ugliest version, but most likely the most robust at doing its intended job.
 

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BillyB

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Material is TPO = thermoplastic olefin...TPO is a thermoplastic made of a combination of ethylene-propylene rubber and polypropylene.
And all types of rubber have some type of oil as a processing aid.
End result: difficult to paint rubber.
 

timurray2000

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I couldn’t face sticking a textured Aeroskin II hood deflector onto my Oxford White Wildtrak.

So I spent weeks searching for an IAG Gloss White version or a simple gloss black, which would at least match the Wildtrak gloss grill. Both appear discontinued. Also, there was a gloss black version that doesn’t have the lip, defeating the windscreen protection goal.

Then I found that there is a non textured version but, again, couldn’t find any in stock. Until my dealership said they could get one in 2 days. When I picked it up, it turned out to be the textured version.

It appears that, if you can find an Aeroskin II in stock (at least in Canada) it’s going to be textured.

So I came up with a plan to sand it down, prime and paint it. In total, it has had 17 layers of adhesion promoter, high build primer, paint and clear coat. Between coats of primer and paint, I used 1000 and 2000 grit. I degreased and used alcohol between sanding.

It took about 4 days and I left plenty of time between the primer, paint and clear coats.

That being said, either the material doesn’t like to be painted or (more likely) I made an error somewhere as I find the coatings very fragile and I’ve already had to do touch-ups after installing.

Suggestions welcome to improve the process.

Hopefully, this post helps anyone wishing to do the same, or put people off enough for them to be more satisfied with the matte textured look.

The photos show parts of the process and materials used.


Sanding from about 200 to 800 grit to remove as much texture as I face removing.

IMG_1581.webp


IMG_1588.webp


IMG_1592.webp



Priming and making the error of not using an adhesion promoter at first and sanding off the original red primer to start the priming process again. I couldn’t remove the red primer that had settled inside the pores.

IMG_1596.webp


IMG_1598.webp


IMG_1629.webp


IMG_1621.webp


IMG_1624.webp


IMG_1626.webp


IMG_1622.webp


IMG_1640.webp



After about 7 coats of primer to try to hide the remaining texture, I moved onto about 4 coats of Oxford White and then 5 coats of clear coat. I sanded 1000 and 2000 between the paint and the clear coat.

IMG_1646.webp


IMG_1652.webp


IMG_1686.webp


IMG_1648.webp


IMG_1684.webp


IMG_1692.webp



Installed after compound polishing off the ceramic coat that was on top of the PPF. Then cleaning with a surface preparer and finally wiping everything down with alcohol.

View attachment 765970

View attachment 765971

View attachment 765972
That's good work. I'm not understanding these bug deflectors though. I get bugs. I wash them off. A deflector gets bugs. I assume you wash them off? I've never had a bug not wash off. Just not understanding the purpose of the piece I guess.
 

BillyB

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Broncian

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Material is TPO = thermoplastic olefin...TPO is a thermoplastic made of a combination of ethylene-propylene rubber and polypropylene.
And all types of rubber have some type of oil as a processing aid.
End result: difficult to paint rubber.
I remember about 20 years ago when I was converting a commercial VW T5 Transporter into a camper, the trend was to paint the bumpers. All the early attempts would peel rapidly. Eventually, there appears to me some that stood up to wear and tear. I’m presuming that the adhesion promoter is sealing the surface to prevent the oils from interfering with the primer. That being said, water based paints are so fragile in comparison to the oil based products.
 

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Broncian

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That's good work. I'm not understanding these bug deflectors though. I get bugs. I wash them off. A deflector gets bugs. I assume you wash them off? I've never had a bug not wash off. Just not understanding the purpose of the piece I guess.
It’s not installed for bugs. It’s installed to save the windscreen. It diverts air higher up to reduce the risk of replacing your windscreen. Many, many, many, many posts on here regarding this subject.
 

Brian_B

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That's good work. I'm not understanding these bug deflectors though. I get bugs. I wash them off. A deflector gets bugs. I assume you wash them off? I've never had a bug not wash off. Just not understanding the purpose of the piece I guess.
it shifts the air flow, so the bugs don't hit the windshield in your line of vision as often.

They will still hit, but you definitively notice the strike zone shifts upward to the top bit of the glass.
 

23OBX2.7

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I believe doing paintable undercoat / euro rock guard first will reduce prep time a lot, increase adhesion without primer, and reduce paint chipping when adding a flex agent.
 

Lej512

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That's good work. I'm not understanding these bug deflectors though. I get bugs. I wash them off. A deflector gets bugs. I assume you wash them off? I've never had a bug not wash off. Just not understanding the purpose of the piece I guess.
Bugs don't bother me as much as stone chips. If the leading edge of the hood gets chipped, my choices are a trip to the body shop ($$$) or a DIY half-assed touch up job. If the hood protector gets damaged, I replace it. Best thing I've found for bugs is from my Harley riding days - A spray product called "Bug Slide".
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