Coilovers swap Badlands LCA

[Monster1926]

So I’m going to be swapping my factory sas suspension for fox 2.5. After some research (actually stumbling on a thread) it seems a lot easier/less risky dropping the LCA than the going from the top. The issue I might run into is the badlands electronic sway bar disconnnect. Is there anyone with a badlands who has swapped their coilovers from the bottom?

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[projectbadlands]

I unbolted the upper control arm from the knuckle and loosed up the axle nut to give me enough clearance to slide the bolts out of the LCA. The sway bar also has a bolt that comes out of the LCA and you do not touch anything else on the sway links. No issues with anything.

 

[Monster1926]

I unbolted the upper control arm from the knuckle and loosed up the axle nut to give me enough clearance to slide the bolts out of the LCA. The sway bar also has a bolt that comes out of the LCA and you do not touch anything else on the sway links. No issues with anything.

That’s the thing, the axle nut is what has me nervous. I’ve been seeing quite a few people with cross threads and it’s a headache I’m trying to avoid.

 

[Ramble_Offroad]

According to Ford the CV axle nut is single use.

 

[Monster1926]

According to Ford the CV axle nut is single use.

Maybe that’s why they’re getting a third of the way down the threads and it’s destroying the threads.

 

[NC_Oak]

Definitely drop the LCAs. Definitely. No need to touch the axle. make sure you have a ratcheting 15mm spanner wrench.

 

[Monster1926]

Definitely drop the LCAs. Definitely. No need to touch the axle. make sure you have a ratcheting 15mm spanner wrench.

No go on a badlands. The sway bar disconnect gets in the way.

 

[Trza]

No go on a badlands. The sway bar disconnect gets in the way.

This is not true. I have a Badlands and dropping the lower arms is the easiest way.

You disconnect the swaybar disconnect, and there is enough wire to support the swaybar on jackstands. Once you remove the nuts, move it back towards the rear tires and support the bar. By moving it back towards the rear it frees up enough room to get the lower arm cam bolts out.

If you search for my posts, I gave a quick summary and have a couple pics of the process on a Badlands.

This method mitigates the need to remove the axle nut, and it lowers the risk of pulling the CV out since it's still supported by the upper control arms attached to the steering knuckle.

And if your kit recommends that you hammer out the lower stamped shock bolts and replace with a nut and bolt combo, it will be even easier to remove the shock going forward. You don't need to create all of the space to clear the stamped bolts anymore.

I hope this helps those with the Badlands trim.

 

[Jdyount]

I had zero issues going in from the top.

If you drop the LCA you have to worry about messing up the alignment bad enough you can't drive. Yes with new coilovers you need a new alignment anyway, I just like the idea of being able to drive it to the dealership. Sure you can mark it, but if you mess something up, mix up bolts or accidentally rub your mark off, you're getting a tow.

The axle nut is not that big of a deal. Sure you'll need a large socket, but that's really the only issue. Don't beat on the end of the axle shaft with a hammer, that's why most people have an issue getting the nut threaded again, they mushroom the end of the axle. Also, just unbolt the swaybar from the LCA and it's not an issue.

 

[Bikeric]

No go on a badlands. The sway bar disconnect gets in the way.

I marked the bolts and plates and removed the lower control arms AND the sway bar disconnect when I did the front struts on my Badlands. I didn't want to mess with the CV axle bolt. Worked like a champ.

 

[F-Spot]

This video is not a coilover swap, but it does show how they moved the badlands disco-sway at around the 2:50 mark of this video...

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