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Chritaka

Wildtrak
Well-Known Member
First Name
Chris
Joined
Feb 1, 2022
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Location
DFW, Texas
Vehicle(s)
'23 WildTrak; '06 Whippl'd Mustang (sold4upgrades)
Your Bronco Model
Wildtrak
Clubs
 
I want the master switch to be the upfitter, so I can't turn on the compressor without the engine running (no need anyway as it'll zap the battery). Then simply use the under hood switch as a circuit breaker. I could leave that on normally so the circuit is complete and turn on/off via the upfitter, but then if I need to I could turn off the compressor via the switch under the hood.

I think I can do this by running a wire from the upfitter to the 20A/10A middle connection on the hood switch, replacing the red wire in the middle in the pic, so it only gets power when the upfitter is on. The 12v connection/purple wire coming out of the hood switch would remain the trigger.
IMG_7809.jpeg
IMG_7810.jpeg

Does that make sense or am I completely off? I found a link here where a guy did this, but he's not responding... This is what he mentioned, but didn't show how it was wired:

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Here is how I wired my ARB pump.

1. The Aux switch is used as a signal or trigger switch that enables the ARB switch next to the pump. ( This requires I think 8 amps from ARB,
Therefore any of the 10 amp Aux switch’s will work).
Note: **** the main 30/50 amps to drive the pumps is coming from two large amp fuses via the Battery included with the ARB wiring harness)

Also… it lights up the ARB switch to let you know it is “enabled” (see pic).

Why????
It is paramount that you have the engine running when you start up your ARB pump….
This will save your battery…the Aux switch ONLY works with the engine running.
Using the Aux this way acts as a Safeguard against accidentally turning on your pump without the engine running…(which is easy to do)

2… the pump is wired directly to the battery via a relay that comes with the switch.

3… the ARB switch controls the pump
(Wired plug and play as per the ARB directions).


Also… I originally ran with the air outlet on the pump located at an angle (as everyone does in the videos) and discovered that my roof insulation felt was hitting the valve….(not cool!!!😡)

**** (side note) Not that you need to… but I relocated my outlet valve and switch…. I purchased the switch mount bracket kit from the makers of the pump bracket… now nothing comes close to my hood insulation…
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This is exactly what I did and works perfect. I also called ARB and they confirmed. I ran a single wire from the upfitter and connected it to the 20A/10A middle connector on the ARB switch. I capped off the red wire in the picture, which was part of the Grimm harness. This now allows me to leave the under hood switch on, then flip the upfitter to air up and monitor via display. However, if I need to jump out and monitor more manually, I leave the upfitter on and then can toggle compressor power via the under hood switch.

I also cut the OEM PCM bracket so I could retain the support for the wheel well liner.
IMG_7815.jpeg


To help dampen vibration on the PCM, I added Kilmat between the bracket and module.
IMG_7812.jpeg
IMG_7813.jpeg


Final result:
IMG_7817.jpeg
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