Looking for T harness for Bronco Black Dimond

[zuke]

I like your set up that sub enclosure looks great looks like thy used very cool black textured liner paint like they use in truck beds I might do something similar
Replacing Vietnamese drivers in the kick panels would be important
When I installed my Hertz Legends 1200$ pair with tweeters in my Xterra where stock R Fosgates were originally made huge difference all the right frequencies from 3 ways were blended in simply adjusting gains and highs and laws I did all by ear nothing fancy just like my home audio
I have 7 foot ribbons bi polar in listen audio room I have build with 15” down firing subs the sound in that room is amazing but i did lots of wall sound treatment and more !
so for me just front stage would fine
Bronco as any boxy SUV will never be acoustically correct but little gains here and there can improve audio performance
I did sound noise check before sound treatment and got lower about 1-2 Db some might say that is nothing but to human ear is actually quite bit improvement. I was happy only to after adding aftermarket roof rack with roof top tent 8” extra height to bronco wind drag I lost what i gained trough the cars walls and floors , never winning situation
But when you drive off-road in slow speeds the wind factor is low and all that work will pay off listening to good tunes on stable and quite cabin.
I purposely decided to build ti line style sub to sit on the floor footprint behind front seats since i have free space there and where your sub is I be fabricating 2 drawers side by side for camping gear and recovery gear. On the top of them i will install our big 12v fridge and power station. I am tryingvto utilizing every sf in the truck.

Yeah the enclosure is really solid to support the weight of my gear on top of it, it's all 3/4" plywood, and extra bracing internally around the ports to both channel the sound and keep the top sturdy.

Since you're planning on doing more overland type wheeling, you'll definitely need to keep your enclosure smaller than mine to allow the extra gear and drawers, but you'll also want to built you're enclosure sturdy ot support weight on top of it.

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[DJ1]

I figured out why blk plug would not fit i was thinking it goes to the first plug on the left , no winder my bad LLJ purposely matched then by color i plugged to the one on the right and firs perfect The gray plug stays in
Now i am waiting on some speedwire and will wire all to the and and hopefully soon i be able to test it all
Thank bunch for all your help in this its going to be awesome set up when finished
Next i am buiding t

thank you , I was thinking something but when I called AC tech he said that i need to run separate wire up to the dash
But ifGTO senses speakers and its on than short run of remote to remote on mono block should wake up amp
I will test is as soon i get my speed wire
I still have ? Regarding you explaining the sub tap on to kick panels
Partly i dont understand!
Would you tap in to say mid bass speaker line just before kick panel I could splice up and solder wires there
I got my Hertz 6,5” mounted and solder wires in place and did not want to mess with them and pull panels out
If is passible , do I top in just one side +/- or do both sides of the car in to midbass runs ? you need to use both +\~ terminals right to get signal to the sub.
No rush on this since I will be starting building my enclosure

Not exactly sure what you are asking. From your earlier pictures you have the speaker outputs from the back of the head unit accessible. If you are going to use speedwire it becomes super easy. I cut my factory speaker wire harness a little ways after it comes out of the head unit. Use the wiring diagram to get LF + and -, RF + and -, LR + and - and RR + and -. Connect those to the speedwire and keep track of which is which. Then the speedwire goes to the amp and you connect them to the proper speaker level inputs on the amp.

No "tapping" into anything. Then you setup your AC amp to take the 4 channels you are inputting and output to 6 channels using the channel summing feature. Then you can use the line out of the AC amp to feed the inout of your sub amp through RCA cables.

If you were going to use the factory speaker wires, then it is different. Since you said you pulled your own speaker wires, it actually makes things much easier. Your setup will essentially be this:

 

[zuke]

Les ,

Listen to what @DJ1 is saying more than me, It sounds like he knows your particular equipment, and probably car audio in general, better than me.

Since the LC6.1200 has line level out (RCA) jacks, if the Monoblock amp you're using has line level in jacks, you would be better off using those to drive it, Then you can use the AC as you're main crossover and gain control, and you'll be able to do all the tuning signal processing (Accubase) with it.

You can pretty much use the wiring diagram he put in above exactly, with the wires from the ACM/Head Unit side of the harness going to the speaker level inputs.

 

[Les Korcala]

Yeah the enclosure is really solid to support the weight of my gear on top of it, it's all 3/4" plywood, and extra bracing internally around the ports to both channel the sound and keep the top sturdy.

Since you're planning on doing more overland type wheeling, you'll definitely need to keep your enclosure smaller than mine to allow the extra gear and drawers, but you'll also want to built you're enclosure sturdy ot support weight on top of it.

I am planing on doing something similar to the photos
I calibrated t line measurements against my 10” JL woofer and need total of 101 “ of ti line air port area so this will work perfect ! Will take all the width of the floor and about 8” tall than will build additional storage on top of it
Originally i was going to go with MDF but leaning to the 6 play birch ply
it will we way lighter and still sturdy plus i have some laying around

 

[Les Korcala]

Not exactly sure what you are asking. From your earlier pictures you have the speaker outputs from the back of the head unit accessible. If you are going to use speedwire it becomes super easy. I cut my factory speaker wire harness a little ways after it comes out of the head unit. Use the wiring diagram to get LF + and -, RF + and -, LR + and - and RR + and -. Connect those to the speedwire and keep track of which is which. Then the speedwire goes to the amp and you connect them to the proper speaker level inputs on the amp.

No "tapping" into anything. Then you setup your AC amp to take the 4 channels you are inputting and output to 6 channels using the channel summing feature. Then you can use the line out of the AC amp to feed the inout of your sub amp through RCA cables.

If you were going to use the factory speaker wires, then it is different. Since you said you pulled your own speaker wires, it actually makes things much easier. Your setup will essentially be this:

great ! Thanks that makes lot if easier i figured i have set of line level outputs so why not use it its how i had in my xterra , someone mentioned to top in to kick panels got confused. Since i need to run single speedwire from amp to head unit I can ignore the harness i got or use it and still solder all speaker wires and be done . I pulled blk plug and i see way more than 8 speaker wires
Speedwire has 8 + blue wire
So what you do with rest of the wires ?
looks like using LLJ harness i have is better solution just solder speedwire to the harnes speaker wires and you done !

 

[zuke]

looks like using LLJ harness i have is better solution just solder speedwire to the harnes speaker wires and you done !

That's what I'm doing, You still want to plug in both sides of the harness, so that all those other blue wires still pass through from the ACM/HU to the other factory harness, You're just going to ignore the wires from the harness that go to the factory speakers.

 

[Les Korcala]

That's what I'm doing, You still want to plug in both sides of the harness, so that all those other blue wires still pass through from the ACM/HU to the other factory harness, You're just going to ignore the wires from the harness that go to the factory speakers.

perfect ! That make sense ! I chat with LKJ but they did not answered my ? About other plug ACM plug but it makes sense all these functions wires have to feed back in the system i will just solder all 8 speaker leads and be done !

 

[margareedaville]

OK, So Here's what was in the package;

The Cable;

ANC Bypass Cable;

Front View of Card

Back Side of Card;

Question - how long did it take you to get your order from LLJ? I'm coming up on 60 days and they still haven't fulfilled my order yet. =(

 

[zuke]

Question - how long did it take you to get your order from LLJ? I'm coming up on 60 days and they still haven't fulfilled my order yet. =(

Less than two weeks, but the website showed it as 'in stock' when I ordered... If they haven't given you any word, I'd be checking on it..

 

[Les Korcala]

Hey wanted to ask you about wiring power amp cable to the AGM battery terminal looks bit busy there
There I see 2 positive terminals with short blk wires 2 empty ones
I am using 100 AMP Stinger fuse in front of it
Witch terminal did you use it ?
i dont believe you have to disconnect battery just turn off stinger fuse and connect the short wire up to the positive on the battery
I am exited to fire all up and see if all is wired right
I finally got my speed-wire yesterday and soldered all to the LLJ one side of the harness speaker wires , the other side ( female plug ) and wires i left unused

 

[Les Korcala]

 

[zuke]

If you look at the two open posts on the positive, you'll see one is much heavier that the other, I took my amp power from the lighter one, (far right podt in your picture) because the other is where Ford says to hook a winch, and that draws a much larger load, though for much shorter periods.

Your amps will actually draw much less than the 100 amps they are fused for most of the time. I (actually checked the draw on my (admittedly much less amp than you plan) with a total of 700 watts, and with everything as loud as I could stand while sitting in the Bronco the highest draw I saw was about 12 amps

 

[Les Korcala]

If you look at the two open posts on the positive, you'll see one is much heavier that the other, I took my amp power from the lighter one, (far right podt in your picture) because the other is where Ford says to hook a winch, and that draws a much larger load, though for much shorter periods.

Your amps will actually draw much less than the 100 amps they are fused for most of the time. I (actually checked the draw on my (admittedly much less amp than you plan) with a total of 700 watts, and with everything as loud as I could stand while sitting in the Bronco the highest draw I saw was about 12 amps

Great thanks for the info
I ended up calling technical support at Ford bit hard to get good answers because since you are doing modifications they dont want to help out
But finally he said that far right post with mini fuse is taken and he said to use the first on the left
So I did and not sure if i blown 2 amp external 40 am fuses or i did when i remove my system from the xterra
I need to check continuity on inputs levels and more !
I checked fuseblock i have splitter type block there for mono bloc and main amp with 100 am and 50 amp fuse
My main amp never turned on its why I traced all the way down to amp external 3 fuses
When i checked all 3 fuses , only 2 were blown ! One in the middle was good ?
More snow in Montana so will spend more tome in the garage
I was only able to ran 4 wires out of 8 ( speedwire ) since i am running front 3 way but bit Tri amping is how i wired in outputs
For now i just wanted to fire up front speakers and set all up , i turned dien gains and other settings for now on the amp. I did not run blue trigger wire since amp has build in GTO future and will sense signal from the speakers
If that wont work than i need to top in to fuse box as you have mentioned earlier
One thing I have noticed when head unit turned on and played CarPlay the volume on screen dial is missing , looks like that future might be gone using this new harness
We will find out soon ! Man , i got so many panels out inside that car looks scary naked with wires everywhere
I hope i get it to work
I got very nice copper crimping sleeves for the power / ground 4G wires they keep well all cables secured.

 

[zuke]

I ended up calling technical support at Ford bit hard to get good answers because since you are doing modifications they dont want to help out
But finally he said that far right post with mini fuse is taken and he said to use the first on the left

Interesting! did he say what the far right post was taken for? I've had stuff wired to it for almost a year now without issue, hope it's not damageing anything!

 

[Les Korcala]

Interesting! did he say what the far right post was taken for? I've had stuff wired to it for almost a year now without issue, hope it's not damageing anything!

No , the guys was quite hard to talk to he referred me first to car audio shop since I am doing myself wiring and we have like zero good car installation places here , so it’s very very hard to get any help.
I did notices as you have mentioned the first post ( w/o nut ) on the left has bigger dia threade post and it’s where I hooked my power cable. Not sure what is permanently wired to the far right with small fuse , he said do not use it but hell m I hope he is right.
do you have exactly same battery as mine ? It’s 2022 BD model

so today I was bit shaky to get back and check all , so far so good no signal to the amp but after replacing 3 on board 4o amp fuses they did not blown ! Good news I checked this with everything off and again with open door which turns on the screen and fuses were good ! I did noticed one thing that when I open door radio won’t turn on I have to push the volume knob to turn it one , so perhaps harness is limited to this future as well as volume on screen future don’t show volume level # as it was originally.

So , I am contemplating what could be the problem that amp won’t turn on ? Passible my speaker inputs from speedwire are wrong ? Or perhaps GTO won’t work with Bronco stock radio ?
sucks to live out in country haha for me to get stupid fuse wire I have to drive 50 miles round trip to the auto zone hope they have one it’s replaces fuse with nice clip in style
I should try to run cable as you said and than I can narrow down to if perhaps input wires are wrong
I could perhaps use one of my RCA cable and use RCA inputs and just wire other end to the speed wire , never done it but perhaps another way to check for the speaker input.
pit was going so nice all the wiring and building and now you got this problem.
Many here mentioned to use #38 on fuse box to connect trigger cable and I remember you have mentioned #35 right it worked for you ? I checked and there is no 38 on that fuse board not sure what they referring to ?

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