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Running new speaker wires and T harness ?

Les Korcala

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Hello, wanted to pick few brains here in reference to upgrading new audio ( non B&O )
I ran brand new 14/16 G speaker wires to the kick panel and dash will run 3 way audio front stage only with tweeters/ mids in the dash and 6,5” mid bass drivers in kick panels.
Have all wired up and wanted to run simple T harness but it looks like in order to run OEM loop back and would need to wired one end of the harness to the stock speaker wires , in this case I can nit do this.
Is anyone ran new set of speaker wires and ran into same issue , if so how did you solve.
I have 6 Chanel Main amp tri-amping 3 way plus will be using mono block to run single 10” subwoofer
Thanks for any tips and suggestions you might have.
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Wait are you running components? I’m confused what you’re trying to do.

I just spliced into the factory harness under the dash and used the factory wiring. I also added a line with a load resistor for the sub.

Output from ACM > Factory wiring > Amp > Factory wiring to speakers
 

DJ1

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Hello, wanted to pick few brains here in reference to upgrading new audio ( non B&O )
I ran brand new 14/16 G speaker wires to the kick panel and dash will run 3 way audio front stage only with tweeters/ mids in the dash and 6,5” mid bass drivers in kick panels.
Have all wired up and wanted to run simple T harness but it looks like in order to run OEM loop back and would need to wired one end of the harness to the stock speaker wires , in this case I can nit do this.
Is anyone ran new set of speaker wires and ran into same issue , if so how did you solve.
I have 6 Chanel Main amp tri-amping 3 way plus will be using mono block to run single 10” subwoofer
Thanks for any tips and suggestions you might have.
I did something similar running my own speaker wire:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

If I am following correctly, you need to take your new speaker wires back to behind the head unit. Then either cut off or add a connector to go from harness output to new speaker wires. If it was me, I would use a long T harness instead of loop back. Then only use it to go from factory head unit connection to amp. Then new speaker wires from amp to speakers. If you can only get a loop back harness, you can just not use the loop back part and still go from amp directly to new speaker wire.

Lots of ways to solve this, just depends on how you want to.
 
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Les Korcala

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Wait are you running components? I’m confused what you’re trying to do.

I just spliced into the factory harness under the dash and used the factory wiring. I also added a line with a load resistor for the sub.

Output from ACM > Factory wiring > Amp > Factory wiring to speakers
thanks for quick respond , yeah I have brand new 3 Wy front with new speaker runs , why case the dash had only midrange there and I needed to run tweeters
I spoke with Audio Control guys who sold me their amp and they said just run one bunch of speaker wires back to the amp and ignore the other bunch coming to stock speaker wires. I think that should work for
do you have subwoofer and if so did you have to tap in to some speaker wires to get signal ? In May case no rears and no stock wires so I need to I think go to kick panel ( closest spot ) to wire in.
man , the new head units cam makes things complicated
 
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Les Korcala

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I did something similar running my own speaker wire:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

If I am following correctly, you need to take your new speaker wires back to behind the head unit. Then either cut off or add a connector to go from harness output to new speaker wires. If it was me, I would use a long T harness instead of loop back. Then only use it to go from factory head unit connection to amp. Then new speaker wires from amp to speakers. If you can only get a loop back harness, you can just not use the loop back part and still go from amp directly to new speaker wire.

Lots of ways to solve this, just depends on how you want to.
Awesome ! Thanks bunch that makes sense I am 65 years old still love good sound but with new head units it’s bit confusing
yeah, I just spoke with Audio Control guys who I got amp from and he confirmed to just use one bunch of speaker wires from radio to the amp and ignore the other bunch and ACN plug
I think that should work , I need to run nice long speed wire.
the main reason I ran new speaker wires was that I need tweeter run in the dash and also wanted to run bigger G on all.
got all installed solder and ready to go !
wanted to ask you about subwoofer wiring I noticed here that many tapping into rear speakers or a kick panel to get signal
do you tap in both sides of the car or just run single wire to one of the speakers , I don’t know nothing about subs in this case.
I am building very time transition line subwoofer enclosure with Jl Audio 10” 3W 3-4 woofer and running Jl JX 500 mono block
below couple of images from the build
I deleted rear seats and amp rack with be mounted solid to the seat bolts and subwoofer will be low and long behind the seats
pits will be camping rig so over the top I will build smaller storage space.

5F84FF1B-CF58-44DD-B788-10096169F429.jpeg


6A7A6867-C91E-40C5-898B-193AC2B56BAC.jpeg


F5CF23FD-2BEF-447D-8248-9F5A4452D897.jpeg
 

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DJ1

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Awesome ! Thanks bunch that makes sense I am 65 years old still love good sound but with new head units it’s bit confusing
yeah, I just spoke with Audio Control guys who I got amp from and he confirmed to just use one bunch of speaker wires from radio to the amp and ignore the other bunch and ACN plug
I think that should work , I need to run nice long speed wire.
the main reason I ran new speaker wires was that I need tweeter run in the dash and also wanted to run bigger G on all.
got all installed solder and ready to go !
wanted to ask you about subwoofer wiring I noticed here that many tapping into rear speakers or a kick panel to get signal
do you tap in both sides of the car or just run single wire to one of the speakers , I don’t know nothing about subs in this case.
I am building very time transition line subwoofer enclosure with Jl Audio 10” 3W 3-4 woofer and running Jl JX 500 mono block
below couple of images from the build
I deleted rear seats and amp rack with be mounted solid to the seat bolts and subwoofer will be low and long behind the seats
pits will be camping rig so over the top I will build smaller storage space.
The sub should be pretty easy. You don't need to tap anything. Your Audio Control amp should have a sub output that you can run RCAs from to your sub amp. As long as you have a full range signal to your AC amp (kick panel feed), you can feed the sub amp through the AC amp.

Your build looks great!
 
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Les Korcala

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I did something similar running my own speaker wire:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

If I am following correctly, you need to take your new speaker wires back to behind the head unit. Then either cut off or add a connector to go from harness output to new speaker wires. If it was me, I would use a long T harness instead of loop back. Then only use it to go from factory head unit connection to amp. Then new speaker wires from amp to speakers. If you can only get a loop back harness, you can just not use the loop back part and still go from amp directly to new speaker wire.

Lots of ways to solve this, just depends on how you want to.
Thanks so much for helping in this
Well , i pulled radio console out and pulled left speaker wire input ( gray square plug ) only to find out my LLJ harness male plug wont fit , it looks very similar but slightly different on the outside ! I assume i need to plug my new harness in or do you live unplug and plug other part of my harness ( female ) to the radio gray one and live the radio unplugged or perhaps they sand me wrong harness , totally lost here i attached few images

99BA9668-82F7-45F5-AA6D-56A9664DBFFE.jpeg


93987AD8-334F-48BA-9437-86F5E2ADB389.jpeg


7E57679D-A383-4A64-8943-1F3BD0971871.jpeg


5F149FAC-A099-4477-B8F7-9C4D4260F1DB.jpeg


DE3608E6-27F1-49D5-8CF1-4E069A4AB92D.jpeg
 
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Les Korcala

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I did something similar running my own speaker wire:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

If I am following correctly, you need to take your new speaker wires back to behind the head unit. Then either cut off or add a connector to go from harness output to new speaker wires. If it was me, I would use a long T harness instead of loop back. Then only use it to go from factory head unit connection to amp. Then new speaker wires from amp to speakers. If you can only get a loop back harness, you can just not use the loop back part and still go from amp directly to new speaker wire.

Lots of ways to solve this, just depends on how you want to.
Thanks so much for helping in this
Well , i pulled radio console out and pulled left speaker wire input ( gray square plug ) only to find out my LLJ harness male plug wont fit , it looks very similar but slightly different on the outside ! I assume i need to plug my new harness in or do you live unplug and plug other part of my harness ( female ) to the radio gray one and live the radio unplugged or perhaps they sand me wrong harness , totally lost here i attached few images

Ford Bronco Running new speaker wires and T harness ? DE3608E6-27F1-49D5-8CF1-4E069A4AB92D


Ford Bronco Running new speaker wires and T harness ? DE3608E6-27F1-49D5-8CF1-4E069A4AB92D


Ford Bronco Running new speaker wires and T harness ? DE3608E6-27F1-49D5-8CF1-4E069A4AB92D


Ford Bronco Running new speaker wires and T harness ? DE3608E6-27F1-49D5-8CF1-4E069A4AB92D


Ford Bronco Running new speaker wires and T harness ? DE3608E6-27F1-49D5-8CF1-4E069A4AB92D
I was just checking your blog on your build and remember I read it like 3 x while back , very nice writeup and great looking gear ! I hope to upgrade to DSP but I only had this LC series AC in my Xterra for few months and love it so much i was able to dial in front stage
I think i can buy for 200$ Audio Control DSP processor and use it with my existing amp.
I do have another question
I attached photos of my amp and the outputs are used by Hertz Xovers to 6’5” and tweeters and midranges are straight from the amp and to speakers
So , i have speaker level inputs where speedwire harness would hook up to right ? And other end to the speaker wires radio harness
I did ended up fabricating nice dash plates for tweeter/ midrange it took some tome but turned out very nice !

5D08C59E-E400-4999-8214-E8FCE972C554.jpeg


0CFB1E6B-4031-4B8D-97FC-DE27A652EC63.jpeg


68FCB23D-A2C1-49AA-B2B8-85575C054441.jpeg


2B0C7B7C-7F07-4D88-B7A2-25A1D818A4F0.jpeg


89E0218C-5169-4F5C-B70E-86825D47D97A.jpeg


530CF35B-E0C4-4912-B2BC-9A3057352458.jpeg


C4E68983-2187-4A3C-A407-C05CC81127E9.jpeg


43D1020A-C392-4169-A121-078BB29E5030.jpeg


3030E55C-4E6A-485D-8D2E-A2DB0484F304.jpeg
 

DJ1

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I was just checking your blog on your build and remember I read it like 3 x while back , very nice writeup and great looking gear ! I hope to upgrade to DSP but I only had this LC series AC in my Xterra for few months and love it so much i was able to dial in front stage
I think i can buy for 200$ Audio Control DSP processor and use it with my existing amp.
I do have another question
I attached photos of my amp and the outputs are used by Hertz Xovers to 6’5” and tweeters and midranges are straight from the amp and to speakers
So , i have speaker level inputs where speedwire harness would hook up to right ? And other end to the speaker wires radio harness
I did ended up fabricating nice dash plates for tweeter/ midrange it took some tome but turned out very nice !

5D08C59E-E400-4999-8214-E8FCE972C554.jpeg
Yes, if you are using speedwire, it goes from your radio speaker wires the speaker level inputs you have the yellow and blue arrows on.

Nice looking speaker plates and amp rack!
 

mandark

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How did u run the new speaker wires to the rollbar speaker? Or did u kot upgrade those?
 

DJ1

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I can't remember exactly. I pulled the rear pods off and then I was able to feed the wire through. I might have used the wire puller, not sure. I remember it being a pain to work around the upper portion and getting the wires routed. I just left the stock wires in place.
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