Sunny B: Build Tracker

[WhiteTrash]

Meet Sunny B, he's replacing the Lazy Dazy camper who just went to a new home. Here's the Instagram which tracks the life and adventures.

08/23/2020​	02/27/2021​	10/08/2021​	10/09/2021​	01/24/2021​	03/31/2022​	04/14/2022​	05/05/2022​
Reservation​	2021 Order​	2022 Order​	Off-Rodeo​	Blend Date​	Built​	Shipped​	Delivered​

Build:
Badlands
2.7L 10 auto
Sasquash
Lux
Ciber Orange
4 Door
Marine Grade Vinyl
Tow Package


Day 1 Upgrades:

Shackles - Install

Tow Strap - Install

Autostop Eliminator

Winch - Install

Wheel Spacers - Install

Hood Riser
@Redline Tuning

Front Bumper - Install
@BAMF

Bumper Aux Lights - Install
@Diode Dynamics

Light Bar - Install

Smittybilt GEN2 Overlander Tent XL - Install

Custom Overlanding Trailer: [email protected]

Somehow Ford didn't put a tow package on. I'm not sure exactly where the ball was dropped, but don't really care to check either. I tossed this on.

Hitch Receiver Class III -

Wiring Harness -

Buying and Selling:

Need to sell my HD Modular front bumper, I think $500 seems reasonable. It has all the holes for mounting sensors if you have the Lux package. I'm not sure it's reasonable to ship it.

I'd be interested in the Trektop Bestop with the slant back, but I can't justify paying for it. If someone want to buy my factory soft top for a similar price I'd be interested in talking.

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[pat8839]

Looking good! I like the bumper. I have seen 1 bolt on winch plate for the modular bumper but it sticks out SOOOOO far it looks corny haha

 

[WhiteTrash]

Looking good! I like the bumper. I have seen 1 bolt on winch plate for the modular bumper but it sticks out SOOOOO far it looks corny haha

Thanks, yeah trying to hide the winch without moving the radiator / intercooler or whatever is there was my priority.

 

[pat8839]

Thanks, yeah trying to hide the winch without moving the radiator / intercooler or whatever is there was my priority.

I definitely do not want to have to try and move that thing. That's apparently the issue with the hidden winch mount that Ford has that works fine with the 2.3 but not the 2.7.

Do you already have the bumper?

 

[WhiteTrash]

I definitely do not want to have to try and move that thing. That's apparently the issue with the hidden winch mount that Ford has that works fine with the 2.3 but not the 2.7.

Do you already have the bumper?

I don’t have it yet, it’s custom hand built and takes about 12 weeks. I did email the owner to be sure there’s no tolerance issues for the 2.7L, and I paid for the holes to move the adaptive cruise control with the Lux package.

 

[JS Creek]

Meet Sunny B, he's replacing the Lazy Dazy camper who just went to a new home.

08/23/2020​	02/27/2021​	10/08/2021​	10/09/2021​	01/24/2021 ETA​	TBD​	TBD​	TBD​
Reservation​	2021 Order​	2022 Order​	Off-Rodeo​	Production​	Built​	Shipped​	Delivered​

Build:
Badlands
2.7L 10 auto
Sasquash
Lux
Ciber Orange
4 Door
Marine Grade Vinyl
Tow Package


Hood Riser

Looks like a great build..
Question, did you receive the struts for the hood riser? If so, what is the overall length of the strut/ length of just the gas spring?

Thanks in advance!

 

[VelocityBrew]

Whoa that took way longer than I'd expect to get a 4 door soft top.

 

[WhiteTrash]

Whoa that took way longer than I'd expect to get a 4 door soft top.

Actually it just got pushed 90 days, estimated delivery date is now May 23rd. That makes it 3 months short of 2 yrs if it doesn't slip again haha.

 

[WhiteTrash]

Looks like a great build..
Question, did you receive the struts for the hood riser? If so, what is the overall length of the strut/ length of just the gas spring?

Thanks in advance!

Thanks!
No prob, here's a photo:

 

[VelocityBrew]

Actually it just got pushed 90 days, estimated delivery date is now May 23rd. That makes it 3 months short of 2 yrs if it doesn't slip again haha.

Converted our original 2021 hardtop Badlands Sasquatch 2.7 Lux leather build In October to a 2022 soft top Badlands Sasquatch 2.7 high MGV and got pulled the week after for 12/20 build and took delivery 1/27

 

[pat8839]

Thanks!
No prob, here's a photo:

What are the struts for? Is that in place of the old school prop rod? I've never seen that, I may like it!

 

[WhiteTrash]

It's Here, how do people do these build journals?

I think I'm going to document my projects as comments and then try to link to the comments from the first post where I keep a tally of what has been added, and where I got it from.

 

[WhiteTrash]

First Install: The Light Bar

Started by removing the covers:

Then I noticed there's no wire, I read it's above the visor. Just pry the cap off, then unscrew and remove the visor.

You'll also need to unplug the power cable for the vanity mirror light.

 

[WhiteTrash]

Now you need to feed the light bar's power cable into the cabin. Unfortunately you need to drill through a few layers.

Be sure to drill the size of the full cable with the secondary shield, don't strop to the individual wires to reduce the size of the hole. This is important to ensure friction never rubs a hole through the wire and causes a short. I probably should have drilled just a tad larger, but I was more worried about staying water tight.

Notice that if I had gone a tad higher then I could have avoided that partial layer.

 

[WhiteTrash]

Now fish your power wire through. Mine came in a really long cable with a fancy waterproof connector on the end. Just cut that off, and run the wire through the hole into the car. Leave about 6" to be sure it's not pulling tight when you mount the bar.

I left a little extra length to be sure no wire were stretched tight, because plan to do a lot of bouncing around with this thing.

Then cover it in a nice silicone or urethane sealant. I had a few random things, and decided to try this one.

Then you'll need to fish out the grey / orange wire (looks more red to me).

I had to use blue crimps because my light was a higher gauge.

I should have checked that the cable Ford provided was a sufficient gauge for the current I'm running...

But I used a butt crimp for the power (grey/orange), and a ring thermal crimp for the ground. I probed the bolts and the black coating didn't seem to impede the conductivity. I just unscrewed the nearest screw under the molding and put my ground there.

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