HOSS 3.0 severe duty STEERING RACK and TIE RODS ...Ford Performance M-3200-WT

[SierraBronco]

Shot in the dark, but does anyone have an old 2.0 Rack lying they’d be willing to sell me? When torquing down my Stage 1 - 74 Weld housing, one of the T30 bolts just sheared completely off flush with the rack. I am thinking I might need to salvage part of a donor rack to frankenstein mine back to life (if I cant extract the bolt out of the housing, which I am debating if it is even worth my time trying since I’ve never had any luck extracting bolts). Thanks.

Hopefully I’ll have a 2.0 I could sell with 20k miles on it here in a week or so.

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[Blaylock1988]

The Hoss 3.0 steering rack is around the same price range as 74Weld's stage one upgrade kit for the Hoss 2.0/3.0. If I have the budget to do only one or the other, what is everyone's opinion on the two options? Which would you recommend I go with?

My use-case is moderate lift on 37s with occasional rock off roading and rock crawling (Red/6-Difficult max on Trails Offroad)

 

[87-Z28]

Hoss 3.0 rack.

 

[BAUS67]

The Hoss 3.0 steering rack is around the same price range as 74Weld's stage one upgrade kit for the Hoss 2.0/3.0. If I have the budget to do only one or the other, what is everyone's opinion on the two options? Which would you recommend I go with?

My use-case is moderate lift on 37s with occasional rock off roading and rock crawling (Red/6-Difficult max on Trails Offroad)

I have pondered the same situation. Right now I'm leaning towards the Hoss 3.0. Then go full billet later.

The way I see it the biggest issue I worry about the most, in either 2.0 or 3.0, is "popping off the cap" and the only way to solve that is with a 74Weld or Vasher billet rack you can get for the Hoss 2.0. But then it becomes how much do I need a bigger motor??? So right now I'm leaning the Hoss 3.0 first. Then 74Weld rack. Vasher rack is 2.0 only.


pic showing "the cap" I am referring to.

Now that pic comes from the brace/repair that I've found but is for the 2.0 and requires drilling one of the webs. Not something I am fond of. Webs are the strength, and the Hoss 2.0 is already lacking in that dept. Might just do this in the meantime till the Hoss 3.0.

https://vasherdesign.com/shop/ols/products/vx-rack-brace-v1

 

[Blaylock1988]

Yeah I'm thinking the 3.0 rack first as well. It has the larger motor and tie rods, and I can still do the 74Weld stage 1 (or 2) kit in the future. There have been plenty of times in Moab where felt like I maxed out the 2.0 motor strength trying to turn (especially with front lockers) even just on flat terrain.

I already have the ProCal 2.7 engine tune and module, and I'm confident I can install and program the rack myself. What I find interesting is that the FP M-3200-WT upgrade kit with software voucher appears to be the same price if not cheaper than the ford parts replacement long rack. I don't see any reason to not go with the FP kit even if I wanted to do the FDRS programming...

This is the best price I've found so far, it was only $65 in shipping and no tax according to the cart checkout page, $1040.49 total. Anyone find a better price?

https://21broncoparts.com/products/bronco-severe-duty-steering-upgrade-kit?variant=43831784014032

 

[87-Z28]

requires drilling one of the webs.

might not be terrible. Depends on the local geometry near the hole. But still.

 

[Snacktime]

Hoss 3.0 and don't waste the money on the billet or a bushing. Full 74Weld housing or just buy another rack down the line is my recommendation.

 

[j_marinelli]

I have pondered the same situation. Right now I'm leaning towards the Hoss 3.0. Then go full billet later.

The way I see it the biggest issue I worry about the most, in either 2.0 or 3.0, is "popping off the cap" and the only way to solve that is with a 74Weld or Vasher billet rack you can get for the Hoss 2.0. But then it becomes how much do I need a bigger motor??? So right now I'm leaning the Hoss 3.0 first. Then 74Weld rack. Vasher rack is 2.0 only.


pic showing "the cap" I am referring to.

Now that pic comes from the brace/repair that I've found but is for the 2.0 and requires drilling one of the webs. Not something I am fond of. Webs are the strength, and the Hoss 2.0 is already lacking in that dept. Might just do this in the meantime till the Hoss 3.0.

https://vasherdesign.com/shop/ols/products/vx-rack-brace-v1

I'd go the 3.0 rack. When I went from my old 2.0 (40k miles to which 28k are with 37s) to the new 3.0, the steering has a night and day difference though I think my 2.0 was on its last leg.

 

[billyum]

I can’t decide if I want to get this or if I should bite the bullet and fork over the $5600 for the 74 weld steering rack

 

[nolimits]

Hoss 3.0 and don't waste the money on the billet or a bushing. Full 74Weld housing or just buy another rack down the line is my recommendation.

Am I remembering correctly I saw a post where you got your 3.0 rack for $200-300?

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

I have pondered the same situation. Right now I'm leaning towards the Hoss 3.0. Then go full billet later.

The way I see it the biggest issue I worry about the most, in either 2.0 or 3.0, is "popping off the cap" and the only way to solve that is with a 74Weld or Vasher billet rack you can get for the Hoss 2.0. But then it becomes how much do I need a bigger motor??? So right now I'm leaning the Hoss 3.0 first. Then 74Weld rack. Vasher rack is 2.0 only.


pic showing "the cap" I am referring to.

Now that pic comes from the brace/repair that I've found but is for the 2.0 and requires drilling one of the webs. Not something I am fond of. Webs are the strength, and the Hoss 2.0 is already lacking in that dept. Might just do this in the meantime till the Hoss 3.0.

https://vasherdesign.com/shop/ols/products/vx-rack-brace-v1

But then you’re spending almost double and that’s what has me in flux about what to do.

I’m still about a year or so out before making this upgrade and my Bronco would be about 3 by then, but diminishing returns is my concern. The 74Weld has already had a price increase; currently let’s just say $5K, but I don’t trust it to stay at that price, particularly if more buy it.

HOSS 3.0 rack has also had a price increase, but it’s still affordable by a mile. Then there‘s the fact that we honestly don’t hear much about Raptor tie rod or rack damage, so why would that one not be good enough for most of us who aren’t at Comp level wheeling?

There’s a want, then there’s the need. Many of us “want” that 74Weld for various reasons, but what we may only need is HOSS 3.0. Also, I can blow a 3.0, get another and still be ahead since install on the 74Weld is likely to be another grand and I would likely only deal with Bubba for that @Exodus4x4 after a road trip down to Texas.

But…. Will I be doing a Baja run in my Bronco? Doubtful. Moab, maybe if trails remain open, AZ or CA deserts, I hope to one day, but since I live on the other side of the country, that’ll likely only happen once or twice, if ever. I will however do Windrock and other OHV parks here in the South and 3.0 may be good enough for that.

74Weld eliminates all worry and concern since you can’t break it, but that‘s a premium cost for that ego boost and to treat our anxiety.

 

[diggs44060]

I have pondered the same situation. Right now I'm leaning towards the Hoss 3.0. Then go full billet later.

The way I see it the biggest issue I worry about the most, in either 2.0 or 3.0, is "popping off the cap" and the only way to solve that is with a 74Weld or Vasher billet rack you can get for the Hoss 2.0. But then it becomes how much do I need a bigger motor??? So right now I'm leaning the Hoss 3.0 first. Then 74Weld rack. Vasher rack is 2.0 only.


pic showing "the cap" I am referring to.

Now that pic comes from the brace/repair that I've found but is for the 2.0 and requires drilling one of the webs. Not something I am fond of. Webs are the strength, and the Hoss 2.0 is already lacking in that dept. Might just do this in the meantime till the Hoss 3.0.

https://vasherdesign.com/shop/ols/products/vx-rack-brace-v1

I did the 74weld 2.0 billet housing with the Icon hdx tierods that came with the 74weld 2.0 housing..
At the time there wasn't programming yet for the 3.0 Moter but the 2.0 rack is fwd compatible to add 3.0 Moter...haven't had any issues since install 1yr ago..I am curious to how the 3.0 moter would be now compared to the 2.0 it's using now??

 

[userdude]

The Hoss 3.0 steering rack is around the same price range as 74Weld's stage one upgrade kit for the Hoss 2.0/3.0. If I have the budget to do only one or the other, what is everyone's opinion on the two options? Which would you recommend I go with?

My use-case is moderate lift on 37s with occasional rock off roading and rock crawling (Red/6-Difficult max on Trails Offroad)

Unless that was the last upgrade you'd ever want to do (stay 2.0), I'd opt 3.0 and upgrade w/stage 1/2 when you find it appropriate. The 3.0 rack is still pretty tough, so if you're getting in squeezes and really putting pressure on your tie rods, maybe you might need the billet housing. But the 3.0 can be reused unless you break it, which I'd bet you wouldn't.

 

[userdude]

But then you’re spending almost double and that’s what has me in flux about what to do.

I’m still about a year or so out before making this upgrade and my Bronco would be about 3 by then, but diminishing returns is my concern. The 74Weld has already had a price increase; currently let’s just say $5K, but I don’t trust it to stay at that price, particularly if more buy it.

HOSS 3.0 rack has also had a price increase, but it’s still affordable by a mile. Then there‘s the fact that we honestly don’t hear much about Raptor tie rod or rack damage, so why would that one not be good enough for most of us who aren’t at Comp level wheeling?

There’s a want, then there’s the need. Many of us “want” that 74Weld for various reasons, but what we may only need is HOSS 3.0. Also, I can blow a 3.0, get another and still be ahead since install on the 74Weld is likely to be another grand and I would likely only deal with Bubba for that @Exodus4x4 after a road trip down to Texas.

But…. Will I be doing a Baja run in my Bronco? Doubtful. Moab, maybe if trails remain open, AZ or CA deserts, I hope to one day, but since I live on the other side of the country, that’ll likely only happen once or twice, if ever. I will however do Windrock and other OHV parks here in the South and 3.0 may be good enough for that.

74Weld eliminates all worry and concern since you can’t break it, but that‘s a premium cost for that ego boost and to treat our anxiety.

Will you be visiting Bubba during your Buc-ee's World Tour? lol

There have been reports of Braptor's breaking tie rods, it's just there's not that many doing big rock crawling that you'd hear about. In Texas (not far from Bubba) is Wolf Caves, which is like a mini Moab in Central Texas. I was talking to 3-4 guys at Merus one day and they all were like, we've seen it multiple times at Wolf Caves. Nothing is foolproof, but you gotta get into it to raise your risk above the 3.0.

However, I don't think you should worry about it. Go 3.0 unless you just cannot afford to break down and potentially be towed out if you break it. You could also keep your 2.0 rack/tie rods as a fallback if you do.

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

Will you be visiting Bubba during your Buc-ee's World Tour? lol

There have been reports of Braptor's breaking tie rods, it's just there's not that many doing big rock crawling that you'd hear about. In Texas (not far from Bubba) is Wolf Caves, which is like a mini Moab in Central Texas. I was talking to 3-4 guys at Merus one day and they all were like, we've seen it multiple times at Wolf Caves. Nothing is foolproof, but you gotta get into it to raise your risk above the 3.0.

However, I don't think you should worry about it. Go 3.0 unless you just cannot afford to break down and potentially be towed out if you break it. You could also keep your 2.0 rack/tie rods as a fallback if you do.

Tie rods aren’t of any concern. Tie rods are cheap and easy to replace. Tie rods fail to save your steering rack.

I was talking about the rack breaking. Reports of breaking the 3.0 are few and only couple I’ve seen were extreme abuse.

although 74Weld likely won’t break even when abused, it costs a fortune and rising, so is it really needed as long as you’re not an idiot or in racing? This is the dilemma many of us are thinking through.

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