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Front Diff Pinion Seal replacement cost

jtgensler

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So, I've got a seeping front pinion seal that needs changed.
I ordered a new one, for like $10 or whatever it is.
But as I'm starting into the job, I'm thinking it might be outside my comfort zone.
Does anyone know what about the dealership cost for replacing the seal would be?
And before anyone says anything, I'm way outside warranty.

I do already have the driveshaft removed(that needs replaced as well), but I'm pretty comfortable with putting that back in.

So it would be cost of removing the yoke, replacing the seal, reinstalling the yoke.

If they offer a reasonable price, i'd probably let the dealer throw the new driveshaft on as well.

Also, this is a 22 Wildtrak, M210 Front Diff if that makes any difference.
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orion

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I'm assuming it's like most dana axles that have a crush sleeve...

Source: YouTube https://share.google/M3kP7VrJ2F4fTk68p

This should help out a ton. Super easy. @Ducati1098 can give you the "right" way, AKA, pulling the pinion and installing a new crush sleeve. Would like to know if dealer's actually do it the "right" way or do it the way above, marking everything and tightening just past the marks going back on???
 

Ducati1098

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I'm assuming it's like most dana axles that have a crush sleeve...

Source: YouTube https://share.google/M3kP7VrJ2F4fTk68p

This should help out a ton. Super easy. @Ducati1098 can give you the "right" way, AKA, pulling the pinion and installing a new crush sleeve. Would like to know if dealer's actually do it the "right" way or do it the way above, marking everything and tightening just past the marks going back on???
I didn’t watch the video, but the right way has never been to replace the crush sleeve. That’s way too much unnecessary work.
I’ve always just marked things and put it back to the same spot.

Workshop manual instructions are basically the same. They want you to remove the front brakes and basically take a rotational torque reading, then match it on reassembly.
 

orion

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I didn’t watch the video, but the right way has never been to replace the crush sleeve. That’s way too much unnecessary work.
I’ve always just marked things and put it back to the same spot.

Workshop manual instructions are basically the same. They want you to remove the front brakes and basically take a rotational torque reading, then match it on reassembly.
Good to know!
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