I’m laughing at this based on my own experience. I lost a rear flap on my Superduty and wondered WTH. Two trips later, I was making an 18 point u turn (common when you’re wheeling a bus). I backed into a bank and watched as the bank pushed the flap into the tire, which promptly removed the flap. I’ll be damned. . .
Yes, for the front I had to install flange nuts behind the fender liner.
I hear ya, my Bison is sporting one rear mud flap because the other one got torn off and lost when a tree removed my fender flare for me.
Thank you, I would say you would be looking at 20-30 minutes to take off the rack. You would need to take off four bolts at the header where the side rails attach, 8 bolts where the Pax Rax attaches to the fender brackets, 4 bolts and nuts ( possibly just loosen) where the rear roof brackets attach, then the four bolts attaching the header. You could stop there if you have a place to store it almost fully assembled. You could possibly skip in doing the side rails from the header and just unbolting the header, but those bolts are really hard to access.
I like that tailgate table, looks lightweight and I like that it gives more surfaces to utilize. Guess I’d just worry my dumb a$$ would forget to put that top shelf down before using a camp stove and then I’d scald my hand with a Molle pattern when I go to put it down……Haven't been keeping up with my postings, but I have been busy working on the Bronco.
I last left you all at installing the TrailRax and the Superlite. When I got the Superlite on a few days later there was loud creaking and a lot of air noise. I tried moving the Superlite back so the front was even with the wind fairing and shoved a pool noodle between the tent and the fairing. I ran a wire through the middle of the pool noodle and tied it to the side rails of the TrailRax that worked for one day, so I'm going to need something stiffer to put through the middle of the pool noodle, also switched out the pool noodle for pipe insulation since the bright colors of the pool noodle weren't to my liking.
Well doing all of that the creaking and the air just didn't go away, so I researched and found TrailRax suggests moving the wind fairing up as high as it will go. Seems the opposite what one should do, but it brought down the wind noise to acceptable levels, but I still had loud creaking. To stop that my research showed putting something between the wind fairing where it meets the side rails, didn't think that would help my situation because I took the front roof panels off and I could hear that the cross bar the the tent mounted to was the one creaking. But I was willing to try anything so I loosened the wind fairing and put a zip tie in-between on both sides and tightened it down, Low and behold the creaking stopped. I have some wind noise still but it's 80% better, so I'm going to try the pipe insulation again.
I did install the IAG v1 rock rail steps, left out the cyber orange piece as it was the only thing I ordered a couple years ago when I was going to get cyber orange but they got rid of that color for '23. I like the steps a lot and think they will provide protection from someone opening their door into my vehicle. Now that I have these the AR Magnum full length steps are looking really good and would provide more protection from doors, but also help with stuff flying up from the road, but man are they pricey. I'll get a picture of the IAG steps up tomorrow.
I ordered the BuiltRight Industries 2-door rear Molle Panels as a way to attach my fire extinguisher (ended up not working on the roll bar, or so I thought, but when I took the roof off to install the PaxRax, I ended up catching part of the Badass Moto in between the roof and the side mount and that's why it must of kept turning). Anyway the main point of the Molle Panels was to install a DC-DC converter so I could charge my EcoFlow Delta2 faster than just with the cigarette style plug.
They install with brackets that go under the OEM tie-down brackets:
However, when I saw someone's post that they were able to get the slide-out tailgate installed in a 2-door, I had to order it as I knew that would make a huge difference on trips having a place to sit or to prepare something without having to remove anything from the trunk. I wasn't sure if the Molle panels would work with the slide-out tailgate and in the end they didn't but I do think I'll be able to fabricate something to get them to work. I tried just zip tying the bottoms to the slide out tailgate frame, but I couldn't get the cover to fit with the installed. In order to install the slide-out into a two door, you just need to create a place to attach the rear of it:
That's the bracket I made to use one of the rear seat bolts:
While I was installing the slide-out tailgate my Mabett v3 tailgate table came in:
While I wanted something made out of stainless steel, the price ($239) and the functionality of this one called to me, so I thought I'd give it a try.
First, I watched the video and read through the instructions. There was no way to get the little bars through the opening on the right (when the door is open) side of the tailgate, luckily there is a rather large hole next to them, so I was able to carefully put the bar on the backside and screw into it from the front. The Left top side the little bars went in the way the instructions show. Also I ended up replacing the washers provided as they were to small and feel into the hole when tightening up. I just used 1/4 SAE washers that were wider. Otherwise the install was relatively easy and one person can do it on their own.
2nd observation is the unit itself is dark grey that doesn't match anything on the Bronco. I would of preferred it to be black.
Overall for the price it seems to be well made with an enamel type of paint. Would be awesome if it was made out of food grad stainless-steel, but I'm sure that would a couple hundred of dollars to the price. The slide out piece seems fairly stable (as long as you pull it out to the farthest it will go). I see why it's not possible, but wish the top piece could be deployed without the side pieces deployed. And for those of you with the slide out tailgate, you can deploy both at the same time.
One downside is the closing "locks" you need to push in hard to get them to close, which means you either have to hold the tailgate door or move it to the max position. Hopefully the will close easier with wear.
I had no idea the slide out tailgate fit on the 2 door. How much room is left behind the front seats? I'm looking into rear seat delete options and I may have to add this to the list. I guess it wouldn't be too hard to make something to level the rest out.Haven't been keeping up with my postings, but I have been busy working on the Bronco.
I last left you all at installing the TrailRax and the Superlite. When I got the Superlite on a few days later there was loud creaking and a lot of air noise. I tried moving the Superlite back so the front was even with the wind fairing and shoved a pool noodle between the tent and the fairing. I ran a wire through the middle of the pool noodle and tied it to the side rails of the TrailRax that worked for one day, so I'm going to need something stiffer to put through the middle of the pool noodle, also switched out the pool noodle for pipe insulation since the bright colors of the pool noodle weren't to my liking.
Well doing all of that the creaking and the air just didn't go away, so I researched and found TrailRax suggests moving the wind fairing up as high as it will go. Seems the opposite what one should do, but it brought down the wind noise to acceptable levels, but I still had loud creaking. To stop that my research showed putting something between the wind fairing where it meets the side rails, didn't think that would help my situation because I took the front roof panels off and I could hear that the cross bar the the tent mounted to was the one creaking. But I was willing to try anything so I loosened the wind fairing and put a zip tie in-between on both sides and tightened it down, Low and behold the creaking stopped. I have some wind noise still but it's 80% better, so I'm going to try the pipe insulation again.
I did install the IAG v1 rock rail steps, left out the cyber orange piece as it was the only thing I ordered a couple years ago when I was going to get cyber orange but they got rid of that color for '23. I like the steps a lot and think they will provide protection from someone opening their door into my vehicle. Now that I have these the AR Magnum full length steps are looking really good and would provide more protection from doors, but also help with stuff flying up from the road, but man are they pricey. I'll get a picture of the IAG steps up tomorrow.
I ordered the BuiltRight Industries 2-door rear Molle Panels as a way to attach my fire extinguisher (ended up not working on the roll bar, or so I thought, but when I took the roof off to install the PaxRax, I ended up catching part of the Badass Moto in between the roof and the side mount and that's why it must of kept turning). Anyway the main point of the Molle Panels was to install a DC-DC converter so I could charge my EcoFlow Delta2 faster than just with the cigarette style plug.
They install with brackets that go under the OEM tie-down brackets:
However, when I saw someone's post that they were able to get the slide-out tailgate installed in a 2-door, I had to order it as I knew that would make a huge difference on trips having a place to sit or to prepare something without having to remove anything from the trunk. I wasn't sure if the Molle panels would work with the slide-out tailgate and in the end they didn't but I do think I'll be able to fabricate something to get them to work. I tried just zip tying the bottoms to the slide out tailgate frame, but I couldn't get the cover to fit with the installed. In order to install the slide-out into a two door, you just need to create a place to attach the rear of it:
That's the bracket I made to use one of the rear seat bolts:
While I was installing the slide-out tailgate my Mabett v3 tailgate table came in:
While I wanted something made out of stainless steel, the price ($239) and the functionality of this one called to me, so I thought I'd give it a try.
First, I watched the video and read through the instructions. There was no way to get the little bars through the opening on the right (when the door is open) side of the tailgate, luckily there is a rather large hole next to them, so I was able to carefully put the bar on the backside and screw into it from the front. The Left top side the little bars went in the way the instructions show. Also I ended up replacing the washers provided as they were to small and feel into the hole when tightening up. I just used 1/4 SAE washers that were wider. Otherwise the install was relatively easy and one person can do it on their own.
2nd observation is the unit itself is dark grey that doesn't match anything on the Bronco. I would of preferred it to be black.
Overall for the price it seems to be well made with an enamel type of paint. Would be awesome if it was made out of food grad stainless-steel, but I'm sure that would a couple hundred of dollars to the price. The slide out piece seems fairly stable (as long as you pull it out to the farthest it will go). I see why it's not possible, but wish the top piece could be deployed without the side pieces deployed. And for those of you with the slide out tailgate, you can deploy both at the same time.
One downside is the closing "locks" you need to push in hard to get them to close, which means you either have to hold the tailgate door or move it to the max position. Hopefully the will close easier with wear.
Check out this post, he made it level out:
Very cool. Definitely an option. I'm still up in the air between this, Goose Gear, American Adventure Labs, or just a DIY setup.Check out this post, he made it level out:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/2-door-slideout-tailgate.68378
There's about 1 foot 4 inches left to level out, where the floor goes down, then you'd have whatever room between the front seats. He also made extra boards for when the front seats are moved as far forward and tilted.
According to DeepSleep, which just made mattresses for the 2-door, there is 5 feet from the back of the front seats (slided forward), and about 6'3" if you lay diagonal.
I hear ya, I was going back and forth between Goose Gear and AAL, but I knew when I saw the slide-out tailgate work in a 2-door, I wanted to start with that, because having that tailgate is going to make everything easier in such a small vehicle.
