Amp Fuse Wire Option?

[23_Yeti_Bronco]

Hey everyone,

So I forgot to run this wire when setting everything up, and now looking for other options.

In the back of the 4 door (if that matters) is there a wire we can tap into for the amp fuse wire? I am installing a JL Stealthbox ran by the 500.1 kicker and was hoping to not run that wire to the fuse box. I was told I could tap into another wire (possibly the light or cig lighter) but wasn't sure if that turned off when the doors open. Want something that will not drain the battery.

If not I will run it to the fuse panel, was just hoping to make it a little easier.

EDIT *****
So I ran the 8g power wire to the 500.1 I was referring to the remote turn-on wire. Unless this is not needed, however I thought it was? Now I am confused. Sorry this was not the amp I was planning on using, but fits the space so much better plus the plug in play kit that I got.

Thank you!

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[RagnarKon]

I'd run a new wire up front.

There is the 12V power port in the back you could theoretically use, but it's only got a 16 gauge wire feeding it... so.... real bad idea.

 

[Brian_B]

I'd run a new wire up front.

This.

There is the 12V power point that @RagnarKon mentions. There's also a pre-run wire that goes up to the glove box area in the front that stops right about where the amp sits on the enclosure, just there for adding stuff after the fact (it would connect with other pre-run wires that also end up in that same area if you wanted to go through the firewall).

But both of those wires are going to be too small to really run your amp. You want at least a #8 wire, #6 would be ideal, with a 60A fuse and for that, you'll need to run a new wire up to the battery, with a fuse. (Kicker recommends a 60A fuse for that amp)

You could probably get away with #12 or #10, but if you do that I would drop to a 30A fuse, and you could run into situations where that amp would blow the fuse. And even at just 30A I wouldn't go with an add-a-tap, I would go right to the battery or a relay from the battery.

 

[HotdogThud]

For the 500.1, I wouldn't even go to the fuse box or use any existing wiring in the truck, run your own 8ga with a 60A fuse to the battery, and then just tie down a ground in the back (I used a rear seat bolt).

Sounds like you might be concerned that the amp turns off when you leave the car, but they turn on and off with the speaker inputs on their own, so it's a non-issue

 

[23_Yeti_Bronco]

So I ran the 8g power wire to the 500.1 I was referring to the remote turn-on wire. Unless this is not needed, however I thought it was? Now I am confused. Sorry this was not the amp I was planning on using, but fits the space so much better plus the plug in play kit that I got.

 

[Brian_B]

I was referring to the remote turn-on wire. Unless this is not needed, however I thought it was?

Ah - not needed with the Kicker. Since you are doing a speaker-level input, the amp will detect when the head unit turns on, and turn itself on.

 

[23_Yeti_Bronco]

Ah - not needed with the Kicker. Since you are doing a speaker-level input, the amp will detect when the head unit turns on, and turn itself on.

Thank you!

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