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Ride height calibration issue

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Wender85

Wender85

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Step one. Connect your FORSCAN to your truck. Ignition on engine off.

Step two. Open the live read of your shock heights you will have to go into the screen with a squiggly lines and you’ll see a bunch of empty boxes double click the empty box and then you will have to select VDM from the drop-down menu then find RF LF etc. you’ll click the arrows over to the right and then hit play. You will now see all four of your shocks ride height live.

step three. Using the pictures I sent as reference you will disconnect the two metal bolts off of the ride height bracket. I had to disconnect the connector to manipulated it enough to pull the bolt out but be careful. The sensor is plastic. You will disconnect all four of your ride height sensors.

step four. Now move the sensor around while you’re looking at your laptop with FOR scan and start moving the dial until you can get it to zero on all four corners or at least plus or minus one.

Step five. Verify that all four sensors are reading at zero or close to it. I would say plus or -1 max of two.

step six. With the ignition on engine off, depress the brake and put your vehicle in neutral. Make sure you either have the E brake on or your wheels chalked so it does not roll away from you.

Step seven. Turn the ignition off and wait for all your screens to go black. Then on your steering wheel, hold down the OK button for about 8 to 10 seconds. While still holding down the OK button press the ignition on the engine off continue holding down OK on the steering wheel. Keep in mind your vehicle is still a neutral. After about 4 to 5 seconds, you’ll see in the lower right hand corner of your dash ET. This is letting you know that you are in engineering mode. As soon as you see ET come up press the gas pedal three times fully depressing it and letting it spring back completely.

step eight. Go back on your for scan and verify that you are still close to zero on your right height. You will now go into the wrench tab on FORSCAN click the VDM drop-down and then look for ride height calibration. You’re going to click on it and then hit the play button.

step nine. Once you hit the play button, it’s gonna come up with a warning and then explain to you that you need to put it ET mode. But you have already done that verifying your dash that it still says ET in the bottom, right hand corner. And then hit OK. It will now calibrate your suspension and it will be successful.

Step 10. Put your Bronco Raptor back in park and Click on the DTC icon on FORSCAN. And clear all of your codes and follow the prompts exactly.

Step 11. Once all your codes are cleared. Cycle your ignition fully off and then back on. You will now have access to all of your goat, modes again, and no error codes.

step 12. Make sure your ignition is off and re-bolt up all of your ride height sensors back onto the brackets. Again, be careful they are plastic and obviously remember how you took them off. I would recommend disconnecting the connector so you can rotate it around enough to fit the bolts back in.

step 13. Once everything is snug on the brackets, do another walk around and make sure all of your connections are plugged in to the right height sensors. Then turn your ignition on and start your vehicle. You should not have any error codes and have access to all of your goat modes again.
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As for doing the right height recalibration with the new springs, I am still working on that, but I have noticed that the brackets that the sensors attached to have some room for adjustments. Meaning, if you loosen the main bolts that hold the bracket on they can be moved up and down slightly. I’m going to look and see if somebody makes a bracket that can set these to the right height within tolerance to conduct a relearn if not, I plan on taking these brackets and trembling off the tabs so I can make a big enough adjustment to be able to recall it. I will continue to keep this chat open if I figure it out hopefully this all helps you all especially the individuals that don’t have access to their goat modes and feel like they’re riding on cinderblocks lol
 

mityike

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Thanks. I had read on another forum somewhere that they did just what you did, except they left them out about 1", did the calibration, cycled it a couple times, and then set them where they were. This way the computer is tackling half of the height at a time. Just need to figure out how far out the computer will allow the height to be off before it faults. I know it didn't like my 60MM measurement. I see people posting about installing the 2" springs and running them awhile to let them settle before calibrating. Maybe anything under 2" and the calibration would work. Only one of mine was out over 2". I installed the 2" rear HD springs to compensate for some gear, and I wanted to keep a little rake, but emptied the cargo out for the calibration. The next biggest was 1.49. I'll give it a shot this weekend and report back.
 

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Is there any noticeable difference (if anyone has calibrated) after lift springs?

We have the Hyperco and haven't messed with calibration. No errors or issues after nearly 2yrs. Didn't notice any wonky handling.
 
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Thanks. I had read on another forum somewhere that they did just what you did, except they left them out about 1", did the calibration, cycled it a couple times, and then set them where they were. This way the computer is tackling half of the height at a time. Just need to figure out how far out the computer will allow the height to be off before it faults. I know it didn't like my 60MM measurement. I see people posting about installing the 2" springs and running them awhile to let them settle before calibrating. Maybe anything under 2" and the calibration would work. Only one of mine was out over 2". I installed the 2" rear HD springs to compensate for some gear, and I wanted to keep a little rake, but emptied the cargo out for the calibration. The next biggest was 1.49. I'll give it a shot this weekend and report back.
That’s a smart idea!!! Yes please report back in. Let me know if that worked out. I will try it next week as well and give my feedback.
 

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Are you running Hyperco front and back, or front only? After swapping, I really couldn’t feel a big difference, maybe a tad stiffer, but I haven’t broke them in yet. Jumped on the “you need to calibrate ride height” train and fighting to get ride modes back. If I get it calibrated, I’ll let you know. Worst case is I go back to stock setting and don’t calibrate.
 

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Are you running Hyperco front and back, or front only? After swapping, I really couldn’t feel a big difference, maybe a tad stiffer, but I haven’t broke them in yet. Jumped on the “you need to calibrate ride height” train and fighting to get ride modes back. If I get it calibrated, I’ll let you know. Worst case is I go back to stock setting and don’t calibrate.
We have front / rear hd hyperco.
 

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i have been fight with this same issues for weeks, i have gone in steps and tried to re calibrate in increments and it is very hit or miss, it worked the first time then failed multiple time after that, a few weeks later i tried again and it worked once and then started the failures. I am around zero on 3 wheels(with in 2mm) and one that is at 13mm and this is where im stuck. if anyone has the secret sauce i will buy you some beers :)

Running Hyperco 2.25 and 2
 
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Iv seen it will never stay perfect as long as you’re close. I also noticed the brackets have none room for adjustment in front and rear. Might dial you closer. Once anyone figures it out 99% or closer please post on here.
 
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I’m traveling all weekend but I can’t wait to try it out and send feedback asap
 

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Iv seen it will never stay perfect as long as you’re close. I also noticed the brackets have none room for adjustment in front and rear. Might dial you closer. Once anyone figures it out 99% or closer please post on here.
Im not looking to get perfect, i just need it to succeed, i currently do not have any goat modes and a error on the dash.
 

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I didn't originally go bonkers on the size of my lift collars so that it would stay within range and not need recal or as it seems other changes.
Same here. Didn't want nor need any significant lift, more of a load correction and leveling.
 
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Im not looking to get perfect, i just need it to succeed, i currently do not have any goat modes and a error on the dash.
Too easy brother go and read my step-by-step process. It’s super simple a little time-consuming, but it will bring your goat modes back 100% guaranteed.
 
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Im not looking to get perfect, i just need it to succeed, i currently do not have any goat modes and a error on the dash.
Step one. Connect your FORSCAN to your truck. Ignition on engine off.

Step two. Open the live read of your shock heights you will have to go into the screen with a squiggly lines and you’ll see a bunch of empty boxes double click the empty box and then you will have to select VDM from the drop-down menu then find RF LF etc. you’ll click the arrows over to the right and then hit play. You will now see all four of your shocks ride height live.

step three. Using the pictures I sent as reference you will disconnect the two metal bolts off of the ride height bracket. I had to disconnect the connector to manipulated it enough to pull the bolt out but be careful. The sensor is plastic. You will disconnect all four of your ride height sensors.

step four. Now move the sensor around while you’re looking at your laptop with FOR scan and start moving the dial until you can get it to zero on all four corners or at least plus or minus one.

Step five. Verify that all four sensors are reading at zero or close to it. I would say plus or -1 max of two.

step six. With the ignition on engine off, depress the brake and put your vehicle in neutral. Make sure you either have the E brake on or your wheels chalked so it does not roll away from you.

Step seven. Turn the ignition off and wait for all your screens to go black. Then on your steering wheel, hold down the OK button for about 8 to 10 seconds. While still holding down the OK button press the ignition on the engine off continue holding down OK on the steering wheel. Keep in mind your vehicle is still a neutral. After about 4 to 5 seconds, you’ll see in the lower right hand corner of your dash ET. This is letting you know that you are in engineering mode. As soon as you see ET come up press the gas pedal three times fully depressing it and letting it spring back completely.

step eight. Go back on your for scan and verify that you are still close to zero on your right height. You will now go into the wrench tab on FORSCAN click the VDM drop-down and then look for ride height calibration. You’re going to click on it and then hit the play button.

step nine. Once you hit the play button, it’s gonna come up with a warning and then explain to you that you need to put it ET mode. But you have already done that verifying your dash that it still says ET in the bottom, right hand corner. And then hit OK. It will now calibrate your suspension and it will be successful.

Step 10. Put your Bronco Raptor back in park and Click on the DTC icon on FORSCAN. And clear all of your codes and follow the prompts exactly.

Step 11. Once all your codes are cleared. Cycle your ignition fully off and then back on. You will now have access to all of your goat, modes again, and no error codes.

step 12. Make sure your ignition is off and re-bolt up all of your ride height sensors back onto the brackets. Again, be careful they are plastic and obviously remember how you took them off. I would recommend disconnecting the connector so you can rotate it around enough to fit the bolts back in.

step 13. Once everything is snug on the brackets, do another walk around and make sure all of your connections are plugged in to the right height sensors. Then turn your ignition on and start your vehicle. You should not have any error codes and have access to all of your goat modes again
 
 





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