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Thinking of moving to DSP Amp

Brian_B

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Long story short:

Got my tax refund, looking to upgrade my amp to a DSP amp.

So far considering Musway M6Pro + something for sub, Musway D8 and running sub bridged, or Audison M8.14 and running sub bridged - looking for opinions, advice, suggestions, etc. Especially looking to hear if I have overlooked a good option here or if there would be issues with one I have picked out.



The long story long:

Upgraded my Bronco's sound system almost right off the bat, looking for something with enough power that i could listen cleanly with the top down. I used a Kenwood x802.5 amp, which is about 50W to 4 channels + 300W (4Ω - how my sub is wired) amp. I installed it in my glove box, the wiring tucks up nice and neat, and I still have plenty of room in the glove box. Fiddling with the sound, it never quite sounded right. I have landed on up splitting the dash speakers out separately and running them from the Factory ACM, and leaving the default Factory EQ enabled. Ultimately, I believe the issue to be that I do not have a DSP, and I cannot correct for timing issues with the speakers. Without the factory EQ enabled, the speakers individually sound ~much~ better... but the phasing is off and certain songs sound like you are listing from around the corner of a wall. Enabling the Factory EQ - the phasing comes in and I lose that echo, but it clips the range on my speakers.

Overall, the Kenwood does fairly well for me - the power is adequate, the sound is clean enough, it puts enough power to the sub, and it's in a nice, easy to access location with clean wiring. It's just this lack of ability to tune anything that I missed. I had never really used it in any other vehicle, and it was never an issue like it is in the Bronco.

I thought about just adding a DSP - that would be an option. But with just the 5-channel amp, I would have to return the front channels to stock parallel and could not tune them individually, or continue to run one set from the ACM and it wouldn't get tuned at all. So really looking for a DSP/Amp I think.

Additionally, I like the installation location I have now. I absolutely do not want to go under the seats, the amp will get wet there. I have wiring run to where I could install a sub amp in the back, but it would require me opening up the back - so I have a couple of options where that isn't needed.

The first thing that came up in my search was the Musway D8. It has enough channels to run all the speakers separately at 70W/Ch. I can bridge a set of channels to run the subwoofer, although it would be at a loss of power (200W vs 300W that I have now). It appears that it would fit directly in where I have the Kenwood now.

Looking at keeping the subwoofer power up for top down / soft top use... that lead me to using the M6 / M6Pro with a separate sub amp in the back. I could re-wire my current sub out to be power (it's large enough gauge), run a signal line back, and mount it back on the sub enclosure. I hadn't really picked out a sub amp, this would be the most powerful option (120W/Ch up front, +whatever in the back, I have a CompRT 8", so that's 300W RMS). A bit more cost this way, but not outside my budget.

Keeping that in mind I went looking for options that would fit up front like the Musway D8, but gave me a bit more power. That lead me to the Audison M8.14. 90W/Ch, bridgeable pair that would give 280W, would fit where the current Kenwood is and no re-wiring required.

Honestly leaning toward the Audison solution - it would cost about what the M6Pro option would... but seems to check all the boxes. Wondering if I'm missing something here.
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Brian_B

Brian_B

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I went the other direction and bought a new chainsaw - which being an idiot, I'll likely run without hearing protection - which will decrease my hearing even further, making any Bronco audio upgrades moot.

You're welcome. Enjoy your new muted atmosphere.
I do have a few chainsaws, and I work around large machinery - so that is an option.
 
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Brian_B

Brian_B

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Been eyeing an alpine c80-88 amp, just waiting for a stock speaker to blow before I go full retard on the stereo.
That would be pretty much exactly what I have in the Kenwood in terms of output power with a integrated DSP.

Where where you thinking of mounting it?
 

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EOD98

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I went with the Musway M6 Pro and a separate amp for two subs. I will say, can’t go wrong with Audis on or Musway. Both are great products.
 

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Bridged channels dont have enough power for sub. Need 1000W @ 2 ohm or so.

Talking to Audison tech a while ago they state not much total audible volume difference between AFC and AFM. 35W channel at dull volume will damage hearing....

I have AP8.9 in classifieds cheap, freeing up cash for a good mono amp and good sub. Had it controlling 1000W kenwood sub amp now in Bronco.
 

RoLyMa27

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Long story short:

Got my tax refund, looking to upgrade my amp to a DSP amp.

So far considering Musway M6Pro + something for sub, Musway D8 and running sub bridged, or Audison M8.14 and running sub bridged - looking for opinions, advice, suggestions, etc. Especially looking to hear if I have overlooked a good option here or if there would be issues with one I have picked out.



The long story long:

Upgraded my Bronco's sound system almost right off the bat, looking for something with enough power that i could listen cleanly with the top down. I used a Kenwood x802.5 amp, which is about 50W to 4 channels + 300W (4Ω - how my sub is wired) amp. I installed it in my glove box, the wiring tucks up nice and neat, and I still have plenty of room in the glove box. Fiddling with the sound, it never quite sounded right. I have landed on up splitting the dash speakers out separately and running them from the Factory ACM, and leaving the default Factory EQ enabled. Ultimately, I believe the issue to be that I do not have a DSP, and I cannot correct for timing issues with the speakers. Without the factory EQ enabled, the speakers individually sound ~much~ better... but the phasing is off and certain songs sound like you are listing from around the corner of a wall. Enabling the Factory EQ - the phasing comes in and I lose that echo, but it clips the range on my speakers.

Overall, the Kenwood does fairly well for me - the power is adequate, the sound is clean enough, it puts enough power to the sub, and it's in a nice, easy to access location with clean wiring. It's just this lack of ability to tune anything that I missed. I had never really used it in any other vehicle, and it was never an issue like it is in the Bronco.

I thought about just adding a DSP - that would be an option. But with just the 5-channel amp, I would have to return the front channels to stock parallel and could not tune them individually, or continue to run one set from the ACM and it wouldn't get tuned at all. So really looking for a DSP/Amp I think.

Additionally, I like the installation location I have now. I absolutely do not want to go under the seats, the amp will get wet there. I have wiring run to where I could install a sub amp in the back, but it would require me opening up the back - so I have a couple of options where that isn't needed.

The first thing that came up in my search was the Musway D8. It has enough channels to run all the speakers separately at 70W/Ch. I can bridge a set of channels to run the subwoofer, although it would be at a loss of power (200W vs 300W that I have now). It appears that it would fit directly in where I have the Kenwood now.

Looking at keeping the subwoofer power up for top down / soft top use... that lead me to using the M6 / M6Pro with a separate sub amp in the back. I could re-wire my current sub out to be power (it's large enough gauge), run a signal line back, and mount it back on the sub enclosure. I hadn't really picked out a sub amp, this would be the most powerful option (120W/Ch up front, +whatever in the back, I have a CompRT 8", so that's 300W RMS). A bit more cost this way, but not outside my budget.

Keeping that in mind I went looking for options that would fit up front like the Musway D8, but gave me a bit more power. That lead me to the Audison M8.14. 90W/Ch, bridgeable pair that would give 280W, would fit where the current Kenwood is and no re-wiring required.

Honestly leaning toward the Audison solution - it would cost about what the M6Pro option would... but seems to check all the boxes. Wondering if I'm missing something here.
mObridge 8 channel?
 
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Brian_B

Brian_B

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Bridged channels dont have enough power for sub. Need 1000W @ 2 ohm or so.

Talking to Audison tech a while ago they state not much total audible volume difference between AFC and AFM. 35W channel at dull volume will damage hearing....

I have AP8.9 in classifieds cheap, freeing up cash for a good mono amp and good sub. Had it controlling 1000W kenwood sub amp now in Bronco.
1000W is waaaay more than I need. I've been pretty happy with the 300W I have been getting from the Kenwood to be honest.
 
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Brian_B

Brian_B

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mObridge 8 channel?
Aren't they mostly A2B amps? I have the standard audio, so I don't have the proper input for a mObridge, unless they have a version that accepts high level inputs.
 

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RoLyMa27

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Aren't they mostly A2B amps? I have the standard audio, so I don't have the proper input for a mObridge, unless they have a version that accepts high level inputs.
Yeah, you're right. Didn't think about that!
 

Snacktime

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That would be pretty much exactly what I have in the Kenwood in terms of output power with a integrated DSP.

Where where you thinking of mounting it?
One of the back quarter panels, probably do a sealed 10"-12" sub fiberglassed in. Anything more will take more space than I want to give up.
 

EOD98

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I was able to fit a Musway M6 Pro under my driver seat, mounted on the stinger amp bracket. But barely and not a direct mount to the bracket. I had to make some new holes. Used some small m3 nut rivets to use the screws that came with it. Could be done differently. Putting it under the seat gives me some wasy access to make changes. Pros and cons for sure.
 

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1000W is waaaay more than I need. I've been pretty happy with the 300W I have been getting from the Kenwood to be honest.
It's all about head room takes a lot of power to get full range from sub but as long as your sub RMS matches amp RMS should be fine.

I did bridge my Audison channels for a JL 10" and was OK but was way better when added the XR1001.1
 
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Brian_B

Brian_B

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It's all about head room takes a lot of power to get full range from sub but as long as your sub RMS matches amp RMS should be fine.

I did bridge my Audison channels for a JL 10" and was OK but was way better when added the XR1001.1
Makes sense

The AP8.9 is like 130W bridged, which is about the same as the OEM sub amp.
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