Icon Stage 4 on 37s | Severe Duty Rack | Daily / Trail Setup

[AaronD1776]

This post is long overdue, been on here a long time with little input and a lot of info taken away, so I’m trying to give back what I can. Always willing to answer any questions on my build, the Idea was to Build it to handle 37s correctly

2021 Badlands Sasquatch, 2.7L, Soft top.

Current Setup
Power

• Ford Performance ProCal 4 Tune
• Flowmaster Axle-Back Exhaust

Suspension

• ICON Stage 4 (2–3” lift for Sasquatch)

Steering / Strength

• Ford Performance Severe Duty steering rack
• JKS max tire clearance kit

Wheels / Tires

• ICON Rebound Pro 17x8.5
• Falken Wildpeak A/T4W – 37x12.50R17

Armor / Support

• TOR Tire Carrier + Tailgate Reinforcement

Air

• ARB Twin Underhood Compressor

Lighting

• KC flex era 3 Ditch Lights

Audio
- kicker hideaway / cs speakers with key amp 200 ( kit from trail seven)

impressions

• Drives better than stock Sasquatch
• Steering feels solid on 37s
• Suspension is controlled, not just lifted

This is how the truck should have come from the factory.

Where do I Push It Next?

• Regear or keep running it as-is?(mainly a daily driver)
• Adjustable track bar worth it at this point?
• Anything I’m overlooking

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[Demon4x4]

Very similar to mine, I mostly just added adjustable rear control arms and traction bar (mine all from Core4x4 - 'crawl' series), and used a different crash bar delete (Lobo). If I was doing it over I might have added a traction bar relocation bracket to keep the rear bar more flat (and may do so still in the future).

 

[broadicustomworks]

Solid choices.
Go ahead and get the needle adapter needed to keep those Upper ball joints greased and keep the grease on the UCA zerks where the bushings are. They will creak if you don't.
As inexpensive as a track bar bracket is, I'd recommend just going ahead and doing it. Adjustable is cool to have (I do not currently) but with the amount you are lifted, the bracket will suffice.

Off-topic for performance/suspension, but my favorite mod when I had the soft top were the IAG soft top hatch struts. They are a game changer.
IF you plan on removing the doors more than once, go ahead and get the EX4X4 door pin setup. The best $50 you'll spend that is bang-for-the-buck.

 

[dragonnuts]

I dont if badlands needs it or not, but did you do a front diff drop, or the cv axles looking ok. And definitely a track bar relocation bracket.

 

[5GENIDN]

Where do I Push It Next?

• Regear or keep running it as-is?(mainly a daily driver)

Regear will be expensive. If you are happy with the acceleration right now I would not regrear. Since it was SASQ. you are aready at a 4.7 to 1..... Pretty low gearing.

• Adjustable track bar worth it at this point?

You only need an adjustable track bar if your rear axle is pulled too far over to the drivers side. My guess is that it might be only about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch... should be fine. One way to address that (and help with handling - rear steer over bumps) is to mount a track bar relocation bracket. I do not see any picks of your track bar. How flat is it? The flatter (horizontal) it is the less rear steer you will get. Rock Jock makes a nice one that adjusts the passenger side of the track bar upwards about 2.5 inches... I think it is about $100.... I found it one of the best investment I have made

• Anything I’m overlooking

Pretty impressive so far.... You have gone way beyond most people.

 

[Oldhippie]

I will second track bar relocation bracket and diff drop with Icon coilovers…enjoy

 

[Bricktop]

Do you have the threads maxed on the coilovers? Or just went with the out of box setting?

 

[agentdarnell]

This post is long overdue, been on here a long time with little input and a lot of info taken away, so I’m trying to give back what I can. Always willing to answer any questions on my build, the Idea was to Build it to handle 37s correctly

2021 Badlands Sasquatch, 2.7L, Soft top.

Current Setup
Power

• Ford Performance ProCal 4 Tune
• Flowmaster Axle-Back Exhaust

Suspension

• ICON Stage 4 (2–3” lift for Sasquatch)

Steering / Strength

• Ford Performance Severe Duty steering rack
• JKS max tire clearance kit

Wheels / Tires

• ICON Rebound Pro 17x8.5
• Falken Wildpeak A/T4W – 37x12.50R17

Armor / Support

• TOR Tire Carrier + Tailgate Reinforcement

Air

• ARB Twin Underhood Compressor

Lighting

• KC flex era 3 Ditch Lights

Audio
- kicker hideaway / cs speakers with key amp 200 ( kit from trail seven)

impressions

• Drives better than stock Sasquatch
• Steering feels solid on 37s
• Suspension is controlled, not just lifted

This is how the truck should have come from the factory.

Where do I Push It Next?

• Regear or keep running it as-is?(mainly a daily driver)
• Adjustable track bar worth it at this point?
• Anything I’m overlooking

Is that 2-3 inches lift over the already lifted badlands squatch? how much travel does it have?

A couple things I wish my badlands sas had was travel equal or greater than the raptor and 37's.

 

[CitrusBronco]

Nice build.
What to do next? I suggest take a few off-road trips and use it, no reason to spend money on anything more until you shake out what you have done.

 

[5GENIDN]

I wish my badlands sas had was travel equal or greater than the raptor and 37's.

To achieve the kind of articulation a Raptor has you will need to change your suspension out to a long arm. That is essentially what a raptor has (more of a mid arm)...

You can improve the rear end articulation a bit with new rear trailing arms that replace the polymer bushings with hiem or Johnny joints.... I went with a Core 4x4 crawler series 5 link and I scored a 540 on the trailer as opposed to a 430 stock. Not a great score but improved for having T-Rex arms in front.... AND not bad for stuffing 40s....

 

[BattleBornBronco]

If you regear, please do a write up. Daily driving 37s is not too bad, but wondering if 5.38 might be nice to have on and off road.

 

[5GENIDN]

If you regear, please do a write up. Daily driving 37s is not too bad, but wondering if 5.38 might be nice to have on and off road.

If you are going to a 5.38 I would strongly recommend changing the axle out... The Dana 220 exclusively uses a 220 mm diameter ring gear (about 8.66 inches). MY Opinion.... is that your tooth profile is getting a little too thin on anything over a 5 to 1. A Dana 60 or Ford 9 inch would increase the diameter of the ring and allow for a stronger tooth profile. Again... this is just opinion...

 

[Squatch]

I'm on a similar setup and the Rock Jock relocation bracket seemed necessary to me. I put it on after I got the lift on and the track bar looked wonky. I drove it before and after and it could be a spent-the-money-already bias, but I felt it eliminated rear input over rough roads and bumps.

 

[Brian_B]

If you regear, please do a write up. Daily driving 37s is not too bad, but wondering if 5.38 might be nice to have on and off road.

I went to 5.38 and it has pros and cons

My 2.3 definitely doesn't need to work as hard - it will spin up ~fast~. In fact I usually hit the turbo blowoff well before the red line if I try to accelerate too hard.

Acceleration is easier but you wind out quickly - on my 7MT it’s slower to accelerate now and you row through the first three gears very quickly — but clutch is a lot easier, and even starting on an incline is almost effortless

Top speed and RPM at freeway speeds are fine - there’s definitely enough transmission gears to keep it happy on the highway. 6th gear on the 7MT is still mostly useless though with 38s.

4Lo is a monster.

Have to be very careful with downshifts and low speed downhill crawls.

I’m still on the Dana 44 - so time will tell if I start chewing up gears or not

 

[Valhalla]

For daily keep the gear if it is 4.7.
Build looks solid.
I would get better bumpers front and rear and the stock are flimsy. You may be more of a crumple zone person. Of course, in a world of runaway semies, survival rate falls to zero.

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