No power to my upfitter switches

[Michael Shaddock]

I have read the previous posts on the upfitter switches and most of them cover poor customer wiring, however I cannot find the reason why there is no power to the switches themselves and every part of the system tests good when uninstalled and tested individually what am I missing?

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[Brian_B]

Key on? Sounds stupid but I have missed obvious things like this myself

 

[gbub]

The upfitter switches do not have power. You must connect the wires that go to them (located on the firewall) to something that has a power source. They just turn the power on and off (probably through grounding). At least that is the way I interpret it. So far, I have just followed the instructions for the components from the manufacturer of the components. I have done on board air compressor and LED fog lights.

 

[Michael Shaddock]

Key on? Sounds stupid but I have missed obvious things like this myself

I have had the key on thank you.

 

[Michael Shaddock]

The upfitter switches do not have power. You must connect the wires that go to them (located on the firewall) to something that has a power source. They just turn the power on and off (probably through grounding). At least that is the way I interpret it. So far, I have just followed the instructions for the components from the manufacturer of the components. I have done on board air compressor and LED fog lights.

So if the switches are just switches, why then have the fuses in the main fuse box and also claim they have power on the circuit?

 

[KillerPenz]

Need more information. How do you know there is no power? Are you testing the wires under the hood for power? Waiting for a switch to light up?

If it's a DIY setup, did you tighten down the fuse box? I've seen far too many issues with the box being loose and just need to tighten it down.

 

[userdude]

So if the switches are just switches, why then have the fuses in the main fuse box and also claim they have power on the circuit?

You should have a bundle of wires that are pre-run for you if you open the hood and look in the driver-side corner. These are related to the switches. Not sure if you're aware of that or not.

 

[GoHawks63]

Another obvious question. Are the switches switched on when you're testing for power?

The wires on the driver's side near the firewall are powered only when the key is on and the switch is set to ON. Make sure you're actually testing the wires from the outfitter switches and not from the wires that are run from the various locations (i.e. grille, A-pillar, windshield header and rear). Those wires do not have power.

For example, when I installed the floodlights on my nudge bar, I connected them to the wire near the hood latch. I then couldn't figure out why they wouldn't turn on when I turned on the outfitter switch, until I figured out that the other end of that wire, which is next to the bundle by the firewall, needs to be connected to a wire from the outfitter switches. They are all in the same area. I assume you have the schematic (available on this site) to help you.

 

[SledDog30]

For reference.

 

[Michael Shaddock]

Need more information. How do you know there is no power? Are you testing the wires under the hood for power? Waiting for a switch to light up?

If it's a DIY setup, did you tighten down the fuse box? I've seen far too many issues with the box being loose and just need to tighten it down.

2021 black diamond sasquatch with pre wired switches that do not light up when the key is on for provide power to the wires under the hood also no power to the fuses and yes I have tested for both power and function and have found no power on any of that system.

Another obvious question. Are the switches switched on when you're testing for power?

The wires on the driver's side near the firewall are powered only when the key is on and the switch is set to ON. Make sure you're actually testing the wires from the outfitter switches and not from the wires that are run from the various locations (i.e. grille, A-pillar, windshield header and rear). Those wires do not have power.

For example, when I installed the floodlights on my nudge bar, I connected them to the wire near the hood latch. I then couldn't figure out why they wouldn't turn on when I turned on the outfitter switch, until I figured out that the other end of that wire, which is next to the bundle by the firewall, needs to be connected to a wire from the outfitter switches. They are all in the same area. I assume you have the schematic (available on this site) to help you.

Yes the switches were on and I also have tested tor power ahead and behind the switches and get no power ahead of the switch and obviously not behind either.

For reference.

Just to be clear my powered circuits are not powered

 

[Michael Shaddock]

Need more information. How do you know there is no power? Are you testing the wires under the hood for power? Waiting for a switch to light up?

If it's a DIY setup, did you tighten down the fuse box? I've seen far too many issues with the box being loose and just need to tighten it down.

2021 black diamond sasquatch with pre wired switches that do not light up when the key is on for provide power to the wires under the hood also no power to the fuses and yes I have tested for both power and function and have found no power on any of that system.

Another obvious question. Are the switches switched on when you're testing for power?

The wires on the driver's side near the firewall are powered only when the key is on and the switch is set to ON. Make sure you're actually testing the wires from the outfitter switches and not from the wires that are run from the various locations (i.e. grille, A-pillar, windshield header and rear). Those wires do not have power.

For example, when I installed the floodlights on my nudge bar, I connected them to the wire near the hood latch. I then couldn't figure out why they wouldn't turn on when I turned on the outfitter switch, until I figured out that the other end of that wire, which is next to the bundle by the firewall, needs to be connected to a wire from the outfitter switches. They are all in the same area. I assume you have the schematic (available on this site) to help you.

Yes the switches were on and I also have tested tor power ahead and behind the switches and get no power ahead of the switch and obviously not behind either.

For reference.

Just to be clear my powered circuits are not powered

 

[Beach_Bum]

With it being out of warranty, it looks like you are in for some trouble-shooting. Any signs of rodent damage in the engine bay?

 

[Fastmc25]

maybe this will help

remove the security card to access F2

 

[CalvinT]

Check F2 (10A) in the Body Control Module (BCM). For 2022 and 2023 it provides power to the overhead switches. That's how they're able to activete the relays.

If it's blown your switches won't light up and you won't get power from the relays. I see no reason for other years to be different. Except for Raptors.

The BCM is in your instrument panel on the left side behind the light switch.

 

[Mibuckeye]

This is still unclear what you are measuring. So no power on each side of the switch would be correct if you have not connected the lead wire under the hood to a power source. So are saying that there is no power on the wires that are coming from the fuse box also? Not to seem remedial but you have to make multiple connections for any switch to power an accessory. One to the power source under the hood which powers the switch. A second to the accessory. For some, a third is required tying the two together in one of the locations noted in the "non powered" location in the diagram above. Hope that makes sense.

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