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dgorsett

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Thanks to @87-Z28 for the great technical explanations , I revisit this thread every 6 months expecting an answer to this : "Best of both worlds, or worst compromise ever. All depends on your use case."

So I'll ask directly: 90% pavement, 8% easy dirt, 1% pushing it and 1% getting pissed at the lack of articulation. I don't want to unbolt and zip tie because I never know when that 1% is going to happen. A good "pull a pin" type would be good with me, but there doesn't seem to be one. So are the Walker links right for me? How is longevity? Will my wife notice more on road body roll 😁 ?
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SierraBronco

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Thanks to @87-Z28 for the great technical explanations , I revisit this thread every 6 months expecting an answer to this : "Best of both worlds, or worst compromise ever. All depends on your use case."

So I'll ask directly: 90% pavement, 8% easy dirt, 1% pushing it and 1% getting pissed at the lack of articulation. I don't want to unbolt and zip tie because I never know when that 1% is going to happen. A good "pull a pin" type would be good with me, but there doesn't seem to be one. So are the Walker links right for me? How is longevity? Will my wife notice more on road body roll 😁 ?
Can’t say much on longevity, but you’ll like the improved ride. You won’t notice the body roll if you have a rear swaybar
 

dgorsett

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Can’t say much on longevity, but you’ll like the improved ride. You won’t notice the body roll if you have a rear swaybar
No rear sway bar.
 

ThunderFlash

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Thanks to @87-Z28 for the great technical explanations , I revisit this thread every 6 months expecting an answer to this : "Best of both worlds, or worst compromise ever. All depends on your use case."

So I'll ask directly: 90% pavement, 8% easy dirt, 1% pushing it and 1% getting pissed at the lack of articulation. I don't want to unbolt and zip tie because I never know when that 1% is going to happen. A good "pull a pin" type would be good with me, but there doesn't seem to be one. So are the Walker links right for me? How is longevity? Will my wife notice more on road body roll 😁 ?
No rear sway bar.
You won't be a flex monster with the links, but they do free up the front a bit. I added the OEM rear bar buying used off eBay to get free shipping, otherwise shipping is as much as the dang bar. The used bar came with end links, too, so I was all in about $200 after buying new mounting hardware. I went to 35" MT BB AT that are Load Range D. Looks like you have LR E tires.

Adding the links to soften the front bar, adding the rear bar to control the rear(Roof rack loads), and moving from the LR C SAS GYs to a LR D tire made for a better riding and handling, more balanced feeling truck. Is it like night/day? No, but it is a noticeable improvement. I'm not a rock crawler, but I've been out on my typical mild trails and it would seem I was getting better traction across the board and using the rear locker less.

The rear bar is like 17mm diameter, so it is pretty soft. The impact on the rear articulation is likely minimal. If you have a heavy truck with a lift and also a roof rack adding high weight, the rear bar probably a smart addition, particularly with the front links.
 

Nanook

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Thanks to @87-Z28 for the great technical explanations , I revisit this thread every 6 months expecting an answer to this : "Best of both worlds, or worst compromise ever. All depends on your use case."

So I'll ask directly: 90% pavement, 8% easy dirt, 1% pushing it and 1% getting pissed at the lack of articulation. I don't want to unbolt and zip tie because I never know when that 1% is going to happen. A good "pull a pin" type would be good with me, but there doesn't seem to be one. So are the Walker links right for me? How is longevity? Will my wife notice more on road body roll 😁 ?
The fact that you revisit this every 6months answered your own question. Leave it stock. Add some lights or stickers.
 

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dgorsett

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You won't be a flex monster with the links, but they do free up the front a bit. I added the OEM rear bar buying used off eBay to get free shipping, otherwise shipping is as much as the dang bar. The used bar came with end links, too, so I was all in about $200 after buying new mounting hardware. I went to 35" MT BB AT that are Load Range D. Looks like you have LR E tires.

Adding the links to soften the front bar, adding the rear bar to control the rear(Roof rack loads), and moving from the LR C SAS GYs to a LR D tire made for a better riding and handling, more balanced feeling truck. Is it like night/day? No, but it is a noticeable improvement. I'm not a rock crawler, but I've been out on my typical mild trails and it would seem I was getting better traction across the board and using the rear locker less.

The rear bar is like 17mm diameter, so it is pretty soft. The impact on the rear articulation is likely minimal. If you have a heavy truck with a lift and also a roof rack adding high weight, the rear bar probably a smart addition, particularly with the front links.
Thanks...
getting better traction across the board and using the rear locker less.
this is the bottom line for me, hate to use that locker when I shouldn't have to.
 

dgorsett

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The fact that you revisit this every 6months answered your own question. Leave it stock. Add some lights or stickers.
Love me some stickers...;
 

crenca

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...90% pavement, 8% easy dirt, 1% pushing it and 1% getting pissed at the lack of articulation...
Huuummm, would the extra articulation that they provide really be significant?

If I recall my numbers correctly, the extra articulation the links provide are just shy of half way between stock sway bar and the Ford electronic disconnect that is standard on Badlands and optional on others (which itself is not quite as much as a sway bar delete).

If you had one or more obstacles that you regularly go over you could test it after you get the links on, but short of that how would one really know?

I'm going to say while it would not be nothing, it would not be "game changer", "out of this world", etc. for you even on these obstacles. Indeed they might be more noticeable in other situations, such as washboard gravel roads.

Regardless of the correct answer, they are relatively cheap for a mod, relatively easy to install or take off, and mine have been almost since the beginning (one of the first mods I did), at least 40K miles, and show no signs of needing to be rebuilt yet - and I wheel quite a bit.
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