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Badlands
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I would like to tweak a couple things stated here. 1: the sasquatch has less travel and Badlands for tire clearance. Not protection of the suspension geometry. The added travel of the non-sas Badlands is in jounce which is already less extreme geometry than rebound. OEM's have very stringent standards regarding tire clearance. Most of us are willing to tolerate much tighter fits or even some rubbing between tires and wheel liners/frame, but not the OEMs.

As for what Vaugh Gittin Jr was saying: I would also point out that any lift whether its "proper" or not, if it changes your tie rod angles off-road it is almost certainly increasing the chance of breaking a rack or tie rod. Spacer lifts have additional downsides, like over-extending your CV's in rebound, and of course that goes for the steering as well, but no suspension lift is immune to increasing the risk of steering breakage. Flat angles make a happy rack.

I am now running 2" lift on Icons, aware of the risks, but I think 2" lift or less combined with suspension awareness while wheeling will be alright. Carry spare tire rods regardless!
Do you know the list of tools for a trailside tierod swap? Wrench/crow's foot size for the inner ball socket?
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Midnight_Blue

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I bought a Sasquatch so we don’t have to worry about what will break due to “upgrades.”
 

SubmarineNuke

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Serious question - bend any tie rods?​
I’m genuinely curious as some forums make it seem like they’ll bend just looking at them.​
If someone wheels without being abusive and within the capability of a stock/stockish Bronco, is the risk low?​
Haven’t wheeled my Badlands yet but I wheeled my JL Rubicon a bunch. I’m honestly more hesitant with the Bronco.​
I've taken my 4 door Wildtrak to Merus, and Colorado twice (ALpine Loop trails and Rim Rocker), and Arkansas not a single problem with my tie rods. Wheel intelligently and you'll be fine. Spare parts are never bad, but just don't be dumb.
 

Rumbloki

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I would like to tweak a couple things stated here. 1: the sasquatch has less travel and Badlands for tire clearance. Not protection of the suspension geometry. The added travel of the non-sas Badlands is in jounce which is already less extreme geometry than rebound. OEM's have very stringent standards regarding tire clearance. Most of us are willing to tolerate much tighter fits or even some rubbing between tires and wheel liners/frame, but not the OEMs.

Anyone know if it is possible to lower the steering rack with spacers?
 

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What tires are those? I ask, because they are VERY clogged with mud and didn't seem to self-clean.
 

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Anyone know if it is possible to lower the steering rack with spacers?
That would not be advisable. The rack is pretty securely fastened to the chassis so any kind of drop would have to be extremely stout. Even then that would be a bad idea because the geometry would be way off (tie rod angle out of line with the control arms) giving it terrible bump steer.

One way you can raise the suspension while keeping the arms level, is a cradle drop kit which includes custom knuckles so that the wheel center and diff can move down but the steering, CV and control arms remain more or less parallel to their original position. Downside is those require cutting of the rear cross member (in most cases) and dropping the cradle removes most of the clearance under the frame that you just tried to gain with the lift. You are also then extremely limited in shock selection unless you run big spacers in the strut towers which again is not a good idea IMO. Helps package larger tires I suppose, but moral of the story is there is no free lunch.
 

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Arrowbear Rider

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you're dropping the weight of the vehicle on a corner or performing high-speed foolishness. I think you would have to be pretty careless to damage them. Easy for newbies to do on accident, and those with more cents then sense, well...
Once you get your angles out of whack it’s a ticking time bomb. Add bigger tires, especially 37’s and you really compound the problem. This is why I'm happy with my Sasquatch's ability and I'm convinced by Jason that a body lift, leaving the CV angles alone, is the way to go here.
Ford designed it that way to keep your angles in check with the bigger & heavier 35’s. Agree with both of your comments, yes it's a clearance thing with Ford, but this too.
I've been on multiple level 6 and 7 trails with a stock rack and no reinforcement on tie-rods, and half of those trails have been with 37" tires. If you don't try to force the steering too hard or get aggressive with the skinny pedal, you can do some pretty amazing stuff. Having minimal lift always helps too. I imagine if I was on a 3-4" lift with 37's that may have pushed things too far. YEP!
I would also point out that any lift whether its "proper" or not, if it changes your tie rod angles off-road it is almost certainly increasing the chance of breaking a rack or tie rod. Spacer lifts have additional downsides, like over-extending your CV's in rebound, and
I'll add I went into a boulder field I had no business going into and my spotter coming back through wasn't the best and I hit hard a few times, fortunately I didn't hit on the rack or tie rods and I made it out with the only real damage being my (cheaper) sliders/steps. But the sliders did their job and my body and rockers were fine.

Note: the boulder field was more difficult and way more treacherous then normal due to the heavy snow melts run off washing away all of the smaller rocks and dirt, a couple of guys forced it and broke axles on the bigger field that I turned around at.
 

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The website says, "Not tested on Hoss 3.0." For the group, would this work on my SAS/Hoss setup? Sorry for the noobie question--I've done suspension work before, but never done tierods. Should I get this for my WT SAS?
It could be made to work in a pinch, but not ideal. You would need to carry a non-Hoss 3 outer as well (hoss 3 inner is larger diameter, but the threads on the rack bar are the same). Just as easy to carry a Hoss 3 spare, and the rest of the tools (should?) work
 

drmdwebb

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It could be made to work in a pinch, but not ideal. You would need to carry a non-Hoss 3 outer as well (hoss 3 inner is larger diameter, but the threads on the rack bar are the same). Just as easy to carry a Hoss 3 spare, and the rest of the tools (should?) work
So buy this kit w/o any tie rods and buy a separate Hoss 3.0 tie-rod spare?
 

userdude

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