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alignment issues after 2” level with 35's

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Got a BB and added a 2in level with 35's, have a alignment done 3 times now and looks good for a couple days and then the top of the front tires kick out about a inch . camber bolts are tight and not rubbing anywhere. any techs know what may be causing this?
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Pics? This sounds weird. Does the steering get outta wack too? Still track straight?
 

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Pics? Maybe with a level to get an idea of how bad the wheels are "kicked out"? What type of lift and who installed it? Did you install new upper control arms as well? Only thing that would cause the wheels to do that is some sort of UCA failure or something not being tightened up. But you would probably feel it while driving as well.
 
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Pics? Maybe with a level to get an idea of how bad the wheels are "kicked out"? What type of lift and who installed it? Did you install new upper control arms as well? Only thing that would cause the wheels to do that is some sort of UCA failure or something not being tightened up. But you would probably feel it while driving as well.
2IN rough country installed at a shop, did not replace control arms. I work at dealership and watched the bolts get tightened to the max. feels fine driving but after a couple days i pick up a slight vibration and then i look and sure enough it out a little bit

IMG_20220228_102519359[6456].jpg
 
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Pics? This sounds weird. Does the steering get outta wack too? Still track straight?
still drives straight , just pick up a slight vibration after a couple days

IMG_20220228_102519359[6456].jpg
 

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So let's backup a second and get a little bit more information. For example when you got 3 different alignments done what was the specs that it was out each time during those 2nd and 3rd alinements? It seems like the alignment shop would have been able to tell you ”jeeze you're out by 3゚ this way or that way.” The 1st guess for issues is always those lower adjustment Cam bolts ...they can ,do cause and have had issues with Toyota's and other vehicles in the past, somehow not getting tight enough and rotating when hitting a bump or the suspension cycles. I gotta admit this is one thing I was very disappointed to see ford do...very cheap weak out dated style of alignment...race trucks have this adjustable part modified, beefed up or eliminated.

I would use a paint pen and mark the cams at all 4 points and keep track...also ask the alignment shop for the paperwork that should show clearly what they did, and what was changed, and what was outta wack.
 
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So let's backup a second and get a little bit more information. For example when you got 3 different alignments done what was the specs that it was out each time during those 2nd and 3rd alinements? It seems like the alignment shop would have been able to tell you ”jeeze you're out by 3゚ this way or that way.” The 1st guess for issues is always those lower adjustment Cam bolts ...they can ,do cause and have had issues with Toyota's and other vehicles in the past, somehow not getting tight enough and rotating when hitting a bump or the suspension cycles. I gotta admit this is one thing I was very disappointed to see ford do...very cheap weak out dated style of alignment...race trucks have this adjustable part modified, beefed up or eliminated.

I would use a paint pen and mark the cams at all 4 points and keep track...also ask the alignment shop for the paperwork that should show clearly what they did, and what was changed, and what was outta wack.
the alignment was done at the ford dealership i work for. one when the tires were swaaped out. ran it for a daay and noticed it off. did another, looked great and after a couple days it was back out. actully ordered new cam bolts thinking they may have been bad . replaced cam bolts friday and looked great agin. drove it this weekend (100 miles ) and noticed it again this morning we are going to paint pen the bolts and see if they are backing out for some reason.
 

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Here's my guess...the inner lower Control arm bushing has a travel limit...(the bushings only rotate so far)... As the tech is tightening the Cam bolts, the bolts actually grab the inner metal tube in the bushing and rotate it as it is being tightened and clamp it in a semi-rotated position...this causes the bushing to be at near max rotate position at ride height....then later when you hit a big bump the bushing rotates as the suspension cycles, but runs into the ”stop”(or runs outta rotational travel) Sooooo then the only thing that can happen as the suspension cycles to the far limits, is the bolts are spun as the Bushing gets tighter and tighter ....or the bushing tears or fails.

I've seen this happen on toys and isuzu s.
 
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Here's my guess...the inner lower Control arm bushing has a travel limit...(the bushings only rotate so far)... As the tech is tightening the Cam bolts, the bolts actually grab the inner metal tube in the bushing and rotate it as it is being tightened and clamp it in a semi-rotated position...this causes the bushing to be at near max rotate position at ride height....then later when you hit a big bump the bushing rotates as the suspension cycles, but runs into the ”stop”(or runs outta rotational travel) Sooooo then the only thing that can happen as the suspension cycles to the far limits, is the bolts are spun as the Bushing gets tighter and tighter ....or the bushing tears or fails.

I've seen this happen on toys and isuzu s.
do you have any suggestions if this is the case, i appreciate your info
 

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Don't tighten the Cam bolts at full suspension droop (like on a lift with tires hanging) this clamps the bushing in the wrong position.

Ford tech should know better.
 

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I agree with Bigmeats. Your cam bolts are rotating for some reason. Fought this issue myself before.
 

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More weight equals more stress on alignment points, wheel Bearings etc. OEM parts are engineered for stock configuration. That being said....always get a print out of camber/caster before and after alignment is done. As said in an earlier reply....use a paint pencil after you get home from the alignment and mark the alignment cam for reference.
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