Audio upgrade for dummies

[Johnny Mo]

So I did say this was for dummies and a dummy I am. The sub in the back is not a dummy sub. It’s a real live sub lol.
So that’s good news. I think the answer is the Kicker Key and upgrading the rear pods. It’s funny because there’s so much talk about the Bronco systems sucking that I just kinda felt like yeah it sucks! But I’m kind of wondering if they seriously improved it in the 24’s because mine really isn’t terrible. Though, there is some room for improvement so. I had the JK Alpine system which was awesome so I might just be spoiled lol thanks for all the reply’s and feel free to keep updating!

It 's not terrible with doors and windows and roof all in place - the second you open a window, remove a roof panel or doors - then it sucks. And I have the B&O and it was disappointing to say the least. Spent $1100 on upgrades and couldn't be happier.

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[maus92]

So I did say this was for dummies and a dummy I am. The sub in the back is not a dummy sub. It’s a real live sub lol.
So that’s good news. I think the answer is the Kicker Key and upgrading the rear pods. It’s funny because there’s so much talk about the Bronco systems sucking that I just kinda felt like yeah it sucks! But I’m kind of wondering if they seriously improved it in the 24’s because mine really isn’t terrible. Though, there is some room for improvement so. I had the JK Alpine system which was awesome so I might just be spoiled lol thanks for all the reply’s and feel free to keep updating!

Yea, my '24 Big Bend is not so bad. A notch below my Tesla MY, but better than the F-150.

 

[John_Sawgrass_Ford]

Do you have pictures of the sub box? And where it was installed?
I am interested in seeing it. If you can snap some pictures..
I appreciate it !

I paid a shop to install my system because the last time installed a system in my car was early 90's. Now, almost 2 years after installing it and reading almost every installation on this forum, I am confident that I can do it myself and save me some money.

The most important thing is budget and amplification (IMO). Why? a small mediocre amp will sound better than the factory, but will not allow you to expand or upgrade in the future, nor will produce the clean fuller sound you are looking for. Component speakers not necessarily sound better than coaxial's on the dash and kick panel without DSP (expensive) and/or expensive speakers.

On my 22 Badlands (non BO or sub option), I wanted JL audio all around. MY shop, specialized on boats and ATV's installs and carried a lot of pricey marine audio components. We discussed what I wanted and they made recommendations based on my budget. Originally I selected JL C3 components for the dash and kick panels and they called me to let me know that they did not liked the way it sounded and they recommended a 4in coax on the dash instead of the 1in tweeter. Distance is an issue with component speakers. This set up worked for me.

My system breakdown:
PAC LPA-E.4 Loc PRO Advance line output converter and harness.
DASH and REAR PODS: 4" Memphis audio PRX4.
AMPLIFICATION: JL Audio XD 700/5
SUBWOOFER: JL Audio's AC208LG-W3v3 (they also have a powered version)
Wiring

Pros: Clean full and punchy bass / The dual 8's pack a punch. You won't win SPL competitions with it but it is enough bass. I listen to everything and the system is enough for me...for now. My volume level with top on is 6-7, top down 10 at cruising speed. No distortion at 15 or higher. Saved money by not installing a DSP or rear pods, and did not have to use FORSCAN to make the rear speakers work.

Cons: Lost some room in the rear area and cubby box (amp was installed at this location). For peace of mind, I purchased the Ford (hinged) metal molle enclosure. As expected, it rattled with some bass notes. Installed Killmat on the trunk floor, metal lid and panels and fixed the rattling up to 60hz. Lost rear fader capabilities (not a biggie to me).

My suggestion:
Determine a solid budget.
Go to Crutchfield and compare speakers and what fits on the stock location. They will provide great guidance on Ohms and loads.
Select a great 5 channel amp (I have a JL Audio XD 700/5, pricey, but does the job very well)
Select line output converters and applicable harness. Do not let any shop work on your bronco without verifying that they have done broncos before and they are surgeons when it comes to splicing and wiring your rig, lots of butcher installs here.
Select speakers!!! for stock locations and subwoofer.
Install and enjoy the sound.

If you do decide to install a sub on the dummy location, make sure that you use plenty of sound deadening. It will rattle the flimsy paneling on the bronco. During install, if panels are removed, and bare metal is exposed, sound deadening is a most.

What will I do different now?
Will have splurge on dash speaker panels from MTI acoustics and JL Audio C7's, but that will have doubled the budget and cost me a second honeymoon...

Let us know what you decide to do. Hope you get the sound you expect and need.

I paid a shop to install my system because the last time installed a system in my car was early 90's. Now, almost 2 years after installing it and reading almost every installation on this forum, I am confident that I can do it myself and save me some money.

The most important thing is budget and amplification (IMO). Why? a small mediocre amp will sound better than the factory, but will not allow you to expand or upgrade in the future, nor will produce the clean fuller sound you are looking for. Component speakers not necessarily sound better than coaxial's on the dash and kick panel without DSP (expensive) and/or expensive speakers.

On my 22 Badlands (non BO or sub option), I wanted JL audio all around. MY shop, specialized on boats and ATV's installs and carried a lot of pricey marine audio components. We discussed what I wanted and they made recommendations based on my budget. Originally I selected JL C3 components for the dash and kick panels and they called me to let me know that they did not liked the way it sounded and they recommended a 4in coax on the dash instead of the 1in tweeter. Distance is an issue with component speakers. This set up worked for me.

My system breakdown:
PAC LPA-E.4 Loc PRO Advance line output converter and harness.
DASH and REAR PODS: 4" Memphis audio PRX4.
AMPLIFICATION: JL Audio XD 700/5
SUBWOOFER: JL Audio's AC208LG-W3v3 (they also have a powered version)
Wiring

Pros: Clean full and punchy bass / The dual 8's pack a punch. You won't win SPL competitions with it but it is enough bass. I listen to everything and the system is enough for me...for now. My volume level with top on is 6-7, top down 10 at cruising speed. No distortion at 15 or higher. Saved money by not installing a DSP or rear pods, and did not have to use FORSCAN to make the rear speakers work.

Cons: Lost some room in the rear area and cubby box (amp was installed at this location). For peace of mind, I purchased the Ford (hinged) metal molle enclosure. As expected, it rattled with some bass notes. Installed Killmat on the trunk floor, metal lid and panels and fixed the rattling up to 60hz. Lost rear fader capabilities (not a biggie to me).

My suggestion:
Determine a solid budget.
Go to Crutchfield and compare speakers and what fits on the stock location. They will provide great guidance on Ohms and loads.
Select a great 5 channel amp (I have a JL Audio XD 700/5, pricey, but does the job very well)
Select line output converters and applicable harness. Do not let any shop work on your bronco without verifying that they have done broncos before and they are surgeons when it comes to splicing and wiring your rig, lots of butcher installs here.
Select speakers!!! for stock locations and subwoofer.
Install and enjoy the sound.

If you do decide to install a sub on the dummy location, make sure that you use plenty of sound deadening. It will rattle the flimsy paneling on the bronco. During install, if panels are removed, and bare metal is exposed, sound deadening is a most.

What will I do different now?
Will have splurge on dash speaker panels from MTI acoustics and JL Audio C7's, but that will have doubled the budget and cost me a second honeymoon...

Let us know what you decide to do. Hope you get the sound you expect and need.

 

[Alassise]

Do you have pictures of the sub box? And where it was installed?
I am interested in seeing it. If you can snap some pictures..
I appreciate it !

Here you go. The first 2 pics are the current set up. I used L brackets to mount it to the ford molle hinged cage (Very sturdy). I also added kilmat to the floorboard, underside of the lid, front of the cage and side panels to minimize rattle. It did its job and reduced a lot of the rattle expected on some very low frequencies.

In this configuration, the approximate dimensions of the trunk are 41" wide by 23.5" deep and 20-23" tall (the lid is not flat)enough for my needs. The drawer is about 4"X6"X35".

The last 2 pics are the down firing original set up. Changing the position of the box did not affected the perceived bass (at least to me) but gave me more linear room to store stuff. The subs are more protected in this configuration.

Hope this gives you an idea for your set up. I listen to all music and the bass is tight and punchy. I don't care much for SPL , they are 8" subs, but the sound is clean and crisp, top on or top less.

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