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B&O Sub only upgrade?

Jhuff

Badlands
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I added an 8" Polk MM 300w, as it had a sensitivity just slightly lower than the Kickers that some people claimed worked well on the factory amp. Mine, at least, did not fare as well and was only "acceptablly" loud and seemed to be missing some frequencies. It did sound better than oem when playing perfectly mixed songs in the frequency range I did have, though.

I just installed a Kenwood 300w amp... and a powered LOC, because the Kenwood has rediculously low input voltage compared to the Key amps (that are designed for amplified inputs). I chose the Kenwood because it is waterproof, as are all my speakers and meticulous wiring harnesses.

While the box was out, I reniforced the 8" mounting hole with 3/16" plastic sheet and plastic adhesive, added sound deadener all around (and on the box), and as an experiment, covered the port with 2 layers of deadener.

Final outcome: I couldn't be happier, and by luck, have the exact sound that I wanted.

As adjusted, my sub players slightly harder than OEM with the ability to crank it up via a remote volume control for the amp. I now have the freedom to adjust the EQ as I wish, rather than having bass cranked up all the way and everything else set low (as with the B&O amp on either sub).
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Hossfire

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Clubs
 
Alright! It's pretty much done just some finishing touches sand the outside all pretty and adjust the inside to get more cu-ft.

important note: The box I made has cu-ft of 6.03 and the minimum for this sub is 5.0. Max: 21.2. My sidewalls are 3/4inch. Considering my box is awfully close to what's pictured the box they sell couldn't be much bigger cu-ft than mine, if they did 1/2 walls then they're bigger.As a consumer I pay 600$ for the box now knowing the sub would be just in ideal range. I don't know if I would be happy with the purchase. Being said let's discuss the b&o sub enclosure.
D8D7EED6-C771-4946-A839-5A94F45CF600.jpeg

Again I'm no box expert.

I think a contributing factor why the b&o isn't good may be from the box? It's hard to tell. I believe it's ported also I don't have one so I can't verify. I'd like to know the cu-ft on the b&o box.

Anywho I'll do a giant post when it's all done.
17B9E5A8-CFD6-4241-827B-180BB6C6EE77.jpeg

I also decided to run jl mx300/1 marine amp. This this is tiny.
9E7BFFE8-C959-4E5D-B979-563233887CE5.jpeg
Nice job! a couple questions:

1) Did you mean 0.6 cubic feet of internal volume? If so, that is perfect for the sub I want to run. 6L. Yea, I figured that the space was fairly small. Price of stealth.
2) How much (top-mounted) depth did you end up with?
3) How did you set up the 'turn on' for the JL amp? Did you run a remote wire? If so, where?
 

PghBronco

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Nice job! a couple questions:

1) Did you mean 0.6 cubic feet of internal volume? If so, that is perfect for the sub I want to run. 6L. Yea, I figured that the space was fairly small. Price of stealth.
2) How much (top-mounted) depth did you end up with?
3) How did you set up the 'turn on' for the JL amp? Did you run a remote wire? If so, where?
2. What?? Explain that like I’m 5 please.
3. I ran my remote wire into my add a fuse for my oracle lights. the draw for each letter is like less than 0.6a so the Crutchfield wizards said it should work. And it does.
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