Decent Rear Bumper?

[Skip2a]

Has anyone seen any aftermarket rear bumpers with a receiver on it? I did a web search but it's only coming up with Rhino and Amazon stuff. I'm thinking of dropping the factory hitch is a desperate attempt to get mine before next year.

I plan on hauling a 4 x 6 or 6 x 10 utility trailer. It will be used for drywall and other odds and ends for house renovations.

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[peta8368]

if you plan to tow an utility trailer on the road, then you need electrical hookup, and that is the bigger push toward the factory tow package. We have already seen pictures of the hitch itself, and it's really nothing fancy. For people who only use the hitch for bike rack or other carrying use, after market hitch (or hitch bumper) makes a lot of sense. But for anyone who's actually towing, we don't have a complete solution for wiring yet. (there is a thread started by flip working toward a solution though)

Peter

 

[Skip2a]

if you plan to tow an utility trailer on the road, then you need electrical hookup, and that is the bigger push toward the factory tow package. We have already seen pictures of the hitch itself, and it's really nothing fancy. For people who only use the hitch for bike rack or other carrying use, after market hitch (or hitch bumper) makes a lot of sense. But for anyone who's actually towing, we don't have a complete solution for wiring yet. (there is a thread started by flip working toward a solution though)

Peter

Thanks Peter!

I found a video today that said the wiring is supposed to come from up front with the factory install compared to just splicing into the breaks/blinkers/running lights as an aftermarket would do. I'm only ten minutes from Lowe's so aftermarket should work without an issue unless it causes electrical problems.

I'm so close to completion of my house so I only need about 20 more sheets of drywall and my deck wood but it all won't be at one time. I really don't want a trailer but I feel it is going to be a necessity after relying on a truck for the last 35 years.

 

[peta8368]

Thanks Peter!

I found a video today that said the wiring is supposed to come from up front with the factory install compared to just splicing into the breaks/blinkers/running lights as an aftermarket would do. I'm only ten minutes from Lowe's so aftermarket should work without an issue unless it causes electrical problems.

We don't know what the electric portion is going to look like yet. The factory tow package includes a module, and some forum members have mentioned PWM (pulse width modulation, which is a new way to control bulb brightness based on "on-time", rather than varying voltage. More importantly, this means the circuit is computer controlled, and not simply switch activated). I cannot remember if this has been confirmed yet, but there are unknowns that may preclude simply splicing wires.

The selfish side of me wants to see people attempt things, and see the outcome. But I cannot in good conscience recommend that you try this.

Peter

 

[survivormanca]

I just ordered about a dozen accessories for my Bronco that is arriving next week. One of them is the tow hitch. The supply manager at my dealer told me that everything was readily available except the tow package, but that they could get it to me in two days.

 

[Silver-Bolt]

The factory wiring harness should be plug and play, no splicing.

 

[ZackDanger]

The factory wiring harness should be plug and play, no splicing.

I’m going to quote from another thread… click on Flip’s username to be brought to the discussion:

This is the plan based on what is in the wiring diagrams and what wiring I think is there, factory TT or not.

Possible problems. Wiring is not there or where I think it is. Ford accessory tail light converter doesn't play well with factory modules/sets circuit fault codes. It's designed to work with PWM (LED) lights and halogen bulbs. The converter is prewired with the 4 pin, which I plan on cutting for use with OE trailer plug 7/4.

Known problem. The Bronco specific 7/4 trailer plug comes with it's own special bracket that's not available from Ford individually. I got one of 3 of these that were in the depot and have not seen any since. If you buy the Ford accessory trailer hitch kit it comes with the hitch, 4 bolts and bracket for the flat 4 pin. See the pic below..

If you just want a flat 4 a lot of this isn't going to apply but I'm going to walk through adding the 12V+ supply and reverse.

If you had factory TT this is what the wiring manual shows. There are two higher amp VBATT 12V+ coming in through this connector near where the module would mount. Problem is, this plugs into the module which means the male side is part of the module. Got a fix.
.

I've got a source for the correct connector and terminals. Ford also carries the pigtails but they are much more expensive than where I'm getting them. The downside, you have to make up your own pigtails. The larger connector should have one circuit coming in for park lights. That's assuming the BCM feeds this factory TT or not. Not a huge problem because we can pick that signal up at the next connector.

While this is up I'll explain the connectors. C410 on driver side and C411 (not pictured) are where the turn, stop, park, reverse lights meet up prior to exiting through the orange bulkhead and to the tail light housings. G400 is where we will pick up a ground for the Ford tail light converter. The 3 connectors circled are for factory TT. The plan is to mount the converter in this general area.

The big question, to cut or not cut. I hate Scotch lock connectors having fought electrical problems in the past due to half arsed installations. Ideally, there would be another set of male/female connectors between C410 and C411 with jumpers coming off the wires we need to pick up signal from but we're getting into more cost and more complexity. The connectors are unsealed Molex MX150 20 cavity. Readily available but short of buying pre made pigtails, would require crimping tools.

This brings us back to trying to make this as easy to do as possible without butchering the factory wiring. Two other options are to cut the wires, add the branches, solder and heat shrink or remove the pins from the connectors, cut and wire in a pre soldered "Y" section. Would still require reconnection via solder and heat shrink or insulated butt connector. Again, this may be within some folks abilities, some not so much which is OK.

These branches would supply the needed signals to the converter. Have to figure out how to get the turn signal from the right side to the left. The main harness runs behind the rear seat and doesn't have any connectors after it comes out of the BCM in the front until it hits the C411 connector.

After we have the right signals to the converter it's either time to say good enough with the flat 4 and try to find a body plug or bulkhead to get it back to the hitch. This is why I need a vehicle here since the rear trim panels and floor have to come out for access.

If you want the 12V+, we'll need to obtain a Pollak or equivalent harness. The 12V+ will be connected to the corresponding 7 pin terminal, the flat 4 from the converter will need to be cut and wires added to the Pollak harness (solder and heat shrink or insulated butt connectors and taped up). You can buy a Pollak 7/4 trailer plug with a bracket, it just won't be the right bracket and you'll have to figure out how or where to mount. Could just zip tie the thing to the factory hitch if you don't mind sneers and jeers from Bronco TT purists.

Obviously there's more detail including specific wire colors and circuit number that will be added once I've got a victim, er vehicle, to practice on.

 

[peta8368]

The factory wiring harness should be plug and play, no splicing.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/tow-package-arrived-contents-inside.17659/

Here's what ordering the tow hitch and wiring after build looks like. It does NOT come with everything for a plug-n-play solution. Flip is working on figuring out a solution for those of us who did not or could not order the factory tow package.

There is a good bit of technical discussion happening there, so for anyone interested for the tow solution (wiring more specifically) after build, that'd be the thread to follow.

Peter

 

[buzpro]

Jeez, now I'm scared to even ask about the trailer brake control wiring harness!

 

[Chrism81]

Has anyone seen any aftermarket rear bumpers with a receiver on it? I did a web search but it's only coming up with Rhino and Amazon stuff. I'm thinking of dropping the factory hitch is a desperate attempt to get mine before next year.

I plan on hauling a 4 x 6 or 6 x 10 utility trailer. It will be used for drywall and other odds and ends for house renovations.

Nothing out there except for the 4wp one. I am waiting for ARB to release theirs

 

[Skip2a]

Thank you for all of the input!

I looked at Flip's thread: it is beyond my limited automotive electrical ability to follow. I was hoping to shave a few months off of my delivery by trying this myself but I really do not want to botch up the wiring on a new vehicle. If prices weren't so crazy I would just buy a cheap beater truck for this and not worry about a trailer.

I dumped the roof rack this week on my order; I don't trust the quality of the MiC tops to be able to handle the stress of it being fastened to it. That is something I can pick up afterwards. I though seriously about dropping the SaS package to try to get an earlier delivery: that one I just can't part with. It looks like I will end up leaving the TT package on and just put up with the inevitable wait until '22. The whole idea of getting this beauty was for my son to enjoy with me this summer as he progressed through his permit and gets his license. I had grand visions of unforgettable father/son time but Ford put the screws to that.

 

[dgorsett]

I’m going to quote from another thread… click on Flip’s username to be brought to the discussion:

There you go again...confusing us with facts.

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