F150LEDs - Automatic Engine Bay LED Kit

[redone17]

File this under “Modifications That Should Have Come From Factory”

This kit has been out for a while and it’s been sitting in my garage for over a year. I finally got around to installing and it’s a major improvement and easy to install. It comes with a switch so that they automatically illuminate when open and turn off when shut.

https://www.f150leds.com/products/2...ight-kit?_pos=2&_psq=bronco+hood&_ss=e&_v=1.0

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[BroncoDave24]

The light strips and the braided harness are great! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ADDITION!
My problem was the quality of the switch and the wire gauge they provided going from the battery to the harness fuse.
The switch was not sealed in any way and the contacts were visible and looked to be made out of a ferrous metal, not stainless. I did not want to drill a hole in the lip of the fender either! So, I never considered using it after I looked it over. No way it was IP67 as the box claimed. I ordered a sealed tilt switch off Amazon and attached it to the hinge. Works GREAT!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HNMCMN?ref=fed_asin_title
Also, I felt a little uncomfortable connecting several inches of un-fused #16 gauge wire directly to the battery terminal block as they recommended. I installed a very short heavy gauge wire from the battery terminal strip to a heavy fuse holder with a 5 amp fuse, then on the the supplied wiring harness.
After experimenting with several placement options I positioned the strips around the forward lip of the hood liner ( See Photo). They light the whole engine bay evenly and they are behind your head with the hood open, so they don't shine in your eyes.
Like I said, the light strips and the braided harness are really nice quality. The mods I mentioned make it safer, more robust and a little more tidy.

 

[redone17]

@BroncoDave24 - you beat me to it. This switch is trash. I’m going to put all of your other advice into practice as well. I already drilled the hole (which is the least of my worries) - but, clearly this needs some better engineering.

Also, I received some bullshit AI respose from F150LEDs customer support email.

Glad I tested this out on my Bronco before installing on the Ranger (which is less beat on).

 

[redone17]

I’m also thinking of ways to mount the wiring on the hood outside of zip ties. Thinking some generic wire holders that can pop into the smaller holes. I don’t have the insulation.

 

[Dreamer]

Would you also consider instead of using the automatic switch, using manual switch. Something like this maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Button-4-5Lines-Motorcycle-Bathroom/dp/B0FBD5QWYZ

 

[BroncoDave24]

I don't think that is a momentary switch.

 

[redone17]

@BroncoDave24 - would you mind snapping a shot of your custom wiring at the battery? If it’s 16 awg in the braided section- what’s the benefit of heavy duty for that 10-12”? Isn’t there a way to just protect it? Also, mine came with an inline fuses on the black switch wire. So that if the switch shorts - assuming they’re anticipating that even though they claim it’s IP69. You put a 5 amp on the hot side?

I wish I had thought to put both strips on that upper lip like you have. I just followed their examples and put one on the lower near the cowl, but that’s proving to be pretty useless.

I had not seen one post about these on this forum which is why I figured I’d share my experience.

 

[BroncoDave24]

It is the red wire going directly from the battery terminal stud to a heavy fuse holder with a 5 amp fuse. I took the wire loom off for clarity.
Refresh my memory... did the light kit have the ground side fused or was it the positive side?
Seems like i was shocked to see the manufacturers fuse was on the ground side! That leaves the entire harness susceptible to fires! If my memory is correct, DO NOT HOOK THIS KIT UP AS THE MANUFACTURER SUGGESTS! The entire harness has NO over current protection from shorts!

 

[redone17]

@BroncoDave24 - you're correct. They have the ground side fused. Made no sense to me either. Just figured they knew something I didn't (I am not great at electrical).

I am trying to get in touch with someone over at F150LEDs to get the story straight. But, looks like I have a wiring project ahead of me this weekend.

 

[CalvinT]

Never fuse the ground lead. I wouldn't trust the design of any product where the instructions tell you to fuse the ground lead. You don't know what else they got wrong.

 

[redone17]

I’m getting the runaround from their reps and R&D. Leaving a sour taste in my mouth for this company. I’ll report back.

 

[BroncoDave24]

@redone17, I remember now... I was in total disbelief that someone had engineered this accessory with the positive going un-fused, straight to the battery, and with the negative (ground) lead having the only fuse. Not to mention the IP30 rated switch they expected us to use on this fire hazard! I left them a very nice, but honest review of the product over a year ago, similar to what I said here. You mentioned yours had been on the shelf for a year, so hopefully they have made some changes to current versions going out. If not, they could have some bad surprises coming!

 

[BroncoDave24]

@CalvinT , I know you will agree with me when you think about wiring something that is chassis grounded, as well as grounded directly to the negative battery post, like a proper 2-way install.
I would want a fuse on both the positive AND the negative leads, IF they are both going directly to the battery. If your negative lead goes to the vehicle frame, and not directly to the battery, a negative fuse is unnecessary.
This is in case the vehicle ground conductor goes bad to the battery. You don't want your starter current running through your 2-way chassis to get back to the battery.

 

[redone17]

@BroncoDave24 - no changes have been made and they claim 1000s of Rangers have installed without a complaint.

They offered an L bracket to move the switch lower…I asked how they expected an L bracket to work on a horizontal fender lip??

I’m starting to think this team isn’t the brightest

I asked for a partial refund because I need to fix their mistakes and spend my own money on their $90 kit. They said I can return for a refund only…

Hopefully our reviews will inform someone.

Thanks for helping engineer these issues.

 

[BroncoDave24]

If my company had 1000's of those in the field and I was still selling them, knowing it was a hazardous design, I couldn't sleep at night! Shame on them!! It would be wise to keep their liability insurance paid up. I wonder if there have been any unexplained fires on those 1000's of Rangers??

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