Retorquing Bead Lock Rings (TL/DR - Needed)

[swamp2]

Did this today after a day of low speed and crawling and a couple hours of high speed (both low psi) + a few thousand road miles.

Spec. is 24 ftlb (with anti-sieze). I assembled these myself and meticulously torqued them when new. Somewhat to my surprise, they absolutely needed to be retorqued. I'd guess many were around 20-ish ftlb, average was needing only a eighth or quarter turn or so. Some were still at 24. They seemed to need more where they got dinged up on the rocks (very minor).

Since the rings contact the rim, I'm not sure if this is relaxation is due to slightly relaxing powder coat (shop missed the masking request on the joint...), stress of use or perhaps tire compression set. After all, a properly designed joint and fastener should never need to be retorqued.

Will check again after some additional combined use.

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[22 Spyder]

I would think it would have to to with the powder coating. Should be good going forward but always a good idea to check every few weeks. Wonder if this is an issue with people that don't have their rings powder coated.

 

[Neps]

In my experience, one of the drawbacks to Beadlocks is the periodic maintenance required to retorque them. I 've ran them for years on a hardcore rig and found they needed to retorqued, often after ever off road outing.
Didn't seem to matter if the rims are steel or aluminum- all needed to be retorqued. The beadlocks with more bolts displayed less movement in the materials.

 

[swamp2]

Every few weeks @22 Spyder - no way. This was multiple trips, of all types, months and thousands of miles and nothing loose enough to be concerned.

I knew what I was signing up for with possible maintenance. If I get really tired of it I might switch to low strength loctite which also serves as anti-sieze (as contradictory as that sounds).

 

[Neps]

Or maybe Rat Rod style

 

[DillonC]

I thought it was pretty standard practice to retorque true beadlocks.

Ford even recommends it every 500 miles.

 

[swamp2]

I thought it was pretty standard practice to retorque true beadlocks.

Ford even recommends it every 500 miles.

Yeah, I've heard lots of discussions on this. The only reasonable conclusion is that this remains a fundamentally mis-designed joint. Again, all properly designed ones never need to be. It's unfortunate.

 

[RimrockPaul]

Did this today after a day of low speed and crawling and a couple hours of high speed (both low psi) + a few thousand road miles.

Spec. is 24 ftlb (with anti-sieze). I assembled these myself and meticulously torqued them when new. Somewhat to my surprise, they absolutely needed to be retorqued. I'd guess many were around 20-ish ftlb, average was needing only a eighth or quarter turn or so. Some were still at 24. They seemed to need more where they got dinged up on the rocks (very minor).

Since the rings contact the rim, I'm not sure if this is relaxation is due to slightly relaxing powder coat (shop missed the masking request on the joint...), stress of use or perhaps tire compression set. After all, a properly designed joint and fastener should never need to be retorqued.

Will check again after some additional combined use.

The more trinkets you have. The more you have to mess with them. I think the powder coat is an issue..any painted or coated fastener surface will give problems. I'd remove them and remove the PC in the the hole and also on the mating surface on the rim side of the ring. Then reinstall and check after each long outing
If they don't stay tight I would consider new hardware and chasing rim threads before install.
Might consider studs with nuts and use locking nuts. don't get Chinesium stuff!
Thats my old man 2 cents.
Good luck my friend
Paul in AZ

 

[swamp2]

The more trinkets you have. The more you have to mess with them.

Spot on...

I think the powder coat is an issue..any painted or coated fastener surface will give problems.

I guess you mean joint or fastener surface? I've got no PC on fasteners nor in the tapped holes.

I'd remove them and remove the PC in the the hole and also on the mating surface on the rim side of the ring.

Removing the PC in the counterbores would be a huge hassle and would likely make an uneven/low quality surface.

Thats my old man 2 cents.
Good luck my friend
Paul in AZ

Thanks! I'm not too fussed on a bit of additional maintenance, esp since it seems like I can go multiple off road trips and thousands of miles.

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