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Wheel shake when driving?

BaseBlackCoupe

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You need hub centric rings installed. These are very cheap.

They fill the void between the hub on your axle (whatever it's called) and the inside of your wheels. Stock wheels fit snug to this, aftermarket do not. When I received my wheels from Custom Offsets they included some with my order.

My truck had the same issue, installed these and boom lola's gone.

Try it!
I'm going to try this.. I think the rings might be my issue. After installing 35's and aftermarket wheels I get a slight slight shake at the steering wheel going above 50mph or so
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Lilhoss105

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I'm going to try this.. I think the rings might be my issue. After installing 35's and aftermarket wheels I get a slight slight shake at the (wheel at times, but most of the time) going above 50mph or so
Good luck!

we just passed 3k miles on the aftermarket 35s and nothing of an issue at all!
 

Lilhoss105

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Did you have the rings installed?
Takes more time to take the damn wheels off than anything.

wheels used to be lug-centric now they are hub-centric, hence the need for the rings.
 

BaseBlackCoupe

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Takes more time to take the damn wheels off than anything.

wheels used to be lug-centric now they are hub-centric, hence the need for the rings.
Okay yea exactly what I have right now. They're lug centric, once I add my rings I'll be hub centric. I don't really care what anyone says, it absolutely cannot hurt to be hub centric.. even if it doesn't fix the issue and I need my tires re balanced, I won't regret going with the rings. Thanks for the replys šŸ˜ŽšŸ‘
 

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LockedBronco

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Lol
Can't be hub centric and lug centric only one or the other.
 

HoosierDaddy

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It can be tire related or wheel related ... or both.

Over the years, I've dealt with 5 sets of aftermarket wheels. Only two sets would run out "perfectly". (in tolerance)

Currently my Methods on the Bronco roll out VERY smoothly all the way up to 80/90 mph Interstate speeds with the Toyo 35's I have on them.

After having an "economy" brand tire blow out on me while doing 80mph in a K5 Blazer, nothing but quality brand tires for me.
Also, a life time of fucking around with trying to get cheaper tires to balance or last a normal lifetime, just isn't worth all the effort.

Buy quality shit once and forget about it.

I'm not certain I'd ever file Generals or Kenda in the "quality" file.
I've only experienced Generals twice ... both sets, two different models ... trash tires. I couldn't wait for them to wear out.
Fuck, I hated those tires so much!

Also, hub rings. They will be a huge help in getting an 80 to 100 lb wheel tire combo placed properly while you're installing the lug nuts.
It can be done with out, but most places/people have no idea what they are dealing with or how to do it properly and will fuck it up.
 

John94

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I have a 2022 Badlands 4 door with stock grabbers and I am having the same issue. The vibration starts at around 35mph and gets worse with the higher speeds. Took it in into the dealer and they don't think it is tires and want to set an appointment. With higher speed I get a harmonic thundering noise also. Only have 3000 miles on it.
Any update on the outcome of this?
 

Dads_bronze_bronco

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Do check the lug nut torques yourself.

People will recommend load force balancing or maybe bead balancing.

Here is my recommendation: get it rebalanced, preferably on a load force balancing.

If after that you still have issues at 70-80 mph, its a defective tire(s): return the tires for a different set.

Donā€™t wait, and donā€™t accept good enough. Having driven on tires that would not balance well enough for highway speeds for 40000 miles on my Jeep, it is far better to address this issue now.

FWIW, my 37ā€ KO2s donā€™t vibrate at highway speeds.
 

Golfsnob

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This is exactly why I installed a new set of Badlands takeoffs on my base. I just sold a Tacoma that had an aftermarket set I bought from Custom Offsets and I never could get them balanced to my satisfaction after multiple attempts. I'm sticking with OEM from here on out.
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