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Bronco Plug and play 1150W RMS amp replacement kit for B&O back in stock!

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mObridge

mObridge

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2 door owners, I will honor this discount when the kit becomes available again if you shoot me an email/dm with an expression of interest before then too.

[email protected]
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BASE729

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1. This depends on what you are trying to achieve. Bass or clarity?
I tend to listen to rock music the most, and it just sounds garbled when the volume is up, so I'd say clarity to start.
2. 3 way all the way! It makes a night and day difference, if you can be bothered with the wiring I would sacrifice your center channel, run is and the spare channel on our amp to tweeters mounted in the A pillars. This will sound awesome.
I think this is where I'm missing the improvements in technology. I was thinking of getting a 3-way speaker set, but using a passive crossover and use just the kick panel speakers as the source, and run speaker wire from the crossover near the kick panel up to the mid and tweeter up in the dash. If I'm understanding your answer correctly, you're saying treat the kick panel, mid, and tweeter as separate speakers and let the amp perform the active 'crossover' function, is that correct?

5. Audio frog are awesome, system will sound great with a 2 way coax setup for sure, but if you want audiophile quality, it is worth the effort to run a couple extra wires to run the tweeters on their own channels. It just gives you a lot more tuning ability. Keep in mind though, this will be slightly more difficult to tune and if you are going 3 way active I would also recommend the purchase of a RTA microphone to dial them in properly.
Would it then make sense to upgrade the kick panel speaker as a simple replacement. Replace the dash speaker with a separate mid / tweeter with a 2-way passive crossover for now... then when I add the amp, I can run more wire, get rid of the crossover and treat the dash speakers as individual speakers?
 

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In response to question 1 speakers or amplifier.

The speakers alone made a huge improvement on the 2021, but learning from my DSP install on the 2023 base system, having a DSP with such incredible shaping ability can make even shit speakers sound way better than you can imagine... Either way, you are going to want both.

If it were me, and I had to choose 1. It would be the amp, because the factory B&O amp has at most 168 watts of power based on 12 amps at 14 volts. Assume that 80-100w goes to the sub, that leaves 60-80w left for the other 9 speakers. Let's be generous and call it 10w per speaker, really the kick panel speakers need 2x the wattage of the front, rear, and center speakers. Front, rear, and center speakers are all rated for 25w and I forget the rating of the kick panel speakers, but nominally 40-50w is likely. 80-100w + 125w is 205-225w of speakers with only 60-80w of power.

To me, the amp and DSP upgrade makes the most sense.
 
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I tend to listen to rock music the most, and it just sounds garbled when the volume is up, so I'd say clarity to start.

I think this is where I'm missing the improvements in technology. I was thinking of getting a 3-way speaker set, but using a passive crossover and use just the kick panel speakers as the source, and run speaker wire from the crossover near the kick panel up to the mid and tweeter up in the dash. If I'm understanding your answer correctly, you're saying treat the kick panel, mid, and tweeter as separate speakers and let the amp perform the active 'crossover' function, is that correct?


Would it then make sense to upgrade the kick panel speaker as a simple replacement. Replace the dash speaker with a separate mid / tweeter with a 2-way passive crossover for now... then when I add the amp, I can run more wire, get rid of the crossover and treat the dash speakers as individual speakers?

So for clarity you will get some improvement by replacing the speakers in the dash, but the problem is you will still be battling the equalising for the factory speakers so you'll only get so far.
The factory amplifier chips will also be distorting at higher volumes too.

But hey, you could start by dropping a couple of decent 4 inch speakers in the corners of the dash and see if that is good enough. Realistically you will end up doing it any way eventually even if you dropped our amp in.

Yes that is correct, our amp has DSP built in that can handle all crossover functions we have adjustable slopes and filter models too. So you can remove all passive crossover components. Let the amp do all of that.

Yeah that might be a good solution until the amp. Once you run that setup fully active on separate channels you will be in music heaven. 3 way active gives you the ultimate ability to dial a system in.
 

Rusty Sheckelford

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4 door owners are usually shocked that 2 doors get cup holders in every single 2 door without having to order leather. Then they become envious or worse angry. LOL.
I just don't understand ford lately.

You can't get factory secuicode or a standalone cold weather package but they'll design multiple trims and seating surfaces which may or may not come with cupholders.
 

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I just don't understand ford lately.

You can't get factory secuicode or a standalone cold weather package but they'll design multiple trims and seating surfaces which may or may not come with cupholders.
Tell me about it... Seriously annoying!
 

Danny's Bronco

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Does this @mObridge amp only work with the B&O system?

I have the high package 2023 with the sub delete. Trying to figure out what to do. Considering Kicker Key 200 and 500 with replacing the speakers myself. Local stereo shop quotes were like $3-5k for a 10" with speaker replacements, dsp and seperate amp. $1500-2000 just in labor.

The forscan makes me nervous DIY. I am sure it's not as bad as I think, but I also would have to buy a windows laptop. Not sure what to do. Never messed with car audio since the 90's.
 

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Does this @mObridge amp only work with the B&O system?

I have the high package 2023 with the sub delete. Trying to figure out what to do. Considering Kicker Key 200 and 500 with replacing the speakers myself. Local stereo shop quotes were like $3-5k for a 10" with speaker replacements, dsp and seperate amp. $1500-2000 just in labor.

The forscan makes me nervous DIY. I am sure it's not as bad as I think, but I also would have to buy a windows laptop. Not sure what to do. Never messed with car audio since the 90's.
You don't need the A2B that the MoBridge Bronco kit is for, however, MoBridge may have a DSP/amp that would be perfect for the standard Bronco sound system. It would have more total power than the Kicker Key 200.4 and 500.1, and probably easier to tune, but it's less tunable as well.
 
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Does this @mObridge amp only work with the B&O system?

I have the high package 2023 with the sub delete. Trying to figure out what to do. Considering Kicker Key 200 and 500 with replacing the speakers myself. Local stereo shop quotes were like $3-5k for a 10" with speaker replacements, dsp and seperate amp. $1500-2000 just in labor.

The forscan makes me nervous DIY. I am sure it's not as bad as I think, but I also would have to buy a windows laptop. Not sure what to do. Never messed with car audio since the 90's.
Yeah that quote is no surprise especially with a 10inch sub. Good audio is expensive unfortunately!

We do not currently have a solution for the base system yet. We are working on an analogue version of this amplifier, hopefully will have a solution for the base system in around 6 months. Our solution would include a coding dongle to handle the Forscan business for you.

Stay tuned.
 

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Yeah that quote is no surprise especially with a 10inch sub. Good audio is expensive unfortunately!

We do not currently have a solution for the base system yet. We are working on an analogue version of this amplifier, hopefully will have a solution for the base system in around 6 months. Our solution would include a coding dongle to handle the Forscan business for you.

Stay tuned.

Thanks Fraser
 

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Does this amp have a bass knob available? If not, how can we quickly adjust the subwoofer level?

Also, can different presets be saved and changed without using the laptop?
Thank you!
 
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Does this amp have a bass knob available? If not, how can we quickly adjust the subwoofer level?

Also, can different presets be saved and changed without using the laptop?
Thank you!
We do not have a bass knob, but we do allow the selection of 4 saved tune presets through the factory headunits via the "speed compensated volume" setting. We repurposed this. The tune that comes preloaded on the amp uses these to increase the subwoofer in steps of 3db. This can be fully adjusted
 

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We do not have a bass knob, but we do allow the selection of 4 saved tune presets through the factory headunits via the "speed compensated volume" setting. We repurposed this. The tune that comes preloaded on the amp uses these to increase the subwoofer in steps of 3db. This can be fully adjusted

Can the rca preout be tuned with dsp to add an additional amplifier? An example would be using it to feed a mono subwoofer amp.
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