Let me just say I am so grateful for this community. Never would've thought RV/Trailer shopping would be so damn complicated with a tow rating of 3500lbs but alas, here we are.
Stoked to stay I'm grabbing this bad boy over the weekend. 2700ish dry weight, 3500 gvwr. Used the ford points and...
That would be ideal of course. My constraint is that I need a place to work on a computer so some sort of dinette and power (solar most likely or portable battery system).
I want to camp this year and take advantage of being able to work remotely. I love my Bronco (21 Badlands, Squatch, 4DR 2.7) but am struggling to find a good sized live-in camper that could be towed relatively safely.
If the limit is technically 3500lbs and a camper weighs 3500lbs dry, roughly...
I remember asking why their stuff was so much more expensive and the response I got was 1. build quality, 2. made in USA.
1 of those seems to be true. If the reason is because of the strut bracket thats the laziest excuse ever.
As I said earlier I dont think this is anywhere near ideal but if you're in a pinch and want something to double as a jump pack (for relatively cheap) this has lasted me overnight multiple times. I'm using a Dometic CFX45...
I posted on here about my attempts to do a Justin McBride inspired raised deck in the rear of my BL a while back. It mostly did the trick but 10k+ miles later I've learned where it fell short, and thanks to so many here with similar ideas I went to the drawing board to re-do this entirely...
I've said it before I'll say it again (in my own experience): with 2.7 SAS on the highway/interstate the RPM threshold is 2300. When I've been at or above that I can watch my MPG drop, and below it gains.
I did a cross country from Florida to Utah and back, trip to North Carolina, all over...
I would find a EG paint pen, fill in the scratches, and try to buff it flat or touch it up with lacquer wet sand and polish. If you mess it up you know how much it costs to get the door blended lol