2025 Bronco Badlands - Suspension / Wheel & Tire Build advise requested

[bfoster]

Hey everybody, I imagine this type of thing gets asked all the time so apologies to anyone that might be offended.

I have a 2025 Ford Bronco Badlands (non-Sasquatch) that I’m planning to upgrade over the next several months. I’m looking for input on the parts direction I'm considering, listed below, as well as a shop in my area that prioritizes proper geometry, drivability, and quality installation work rather than just throwing parts at the vehicle. So if you know a good shop in the Jacksonville/St. Augustine FL area that would be an amazing bonus!

The Bronco honestly spends approximately 90% of its time on pavement, but I still want it to be genuinely capable off-road and maintain good long-term reliability and road manners. I of course am looking for a more aggressive stance but I've never been one to throw inferior parts at a vehicle just for the look. My goal is a functional build rather than just an overly aggressive “show truck” setup.

Current plan is approximately a 2–3” suspension setup on 35s with the following components:

Suspension / Steering:

Bilstein 6112 suspension front and rear
ICON Tubular Upper Control Arms w/ Delta Joints
MetalCloak Duroflex rear control arms (leaning this direction over Johnny Joints)
ICON Adjustable Rear Track Bar
RockJock RJ-181400-101 Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket

Wheel / Tire Setup:

Method MR305 17x8.5 +25 wheels
Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T 35x12.50R17 tires

The goal is:

maintain good highway stability and steering feel
minimize unnecessary scrub radius changes
maintain proper suspension geometry
avoid excessive lift height
preserve good ride quality and tire wear

I probably wont do it all at once, meaning wheels/tires and suspension. I'll need to split those two up. Obviously the wheels and tires I can do my self but I'll need a good shop for the suspension and alignment.

Should I do the suspension 1st and keep the stock wheels and tires for a bit or would that wheel and tire combo work with the stock suspension after removing the front and rear crash bars?

Do you think I'll need a tailgate reinforcement? If my math is correct I think I'm adding about 8lbs over OEM.

Is there anything in this combination that you would personally change or recommend differently?

Roughly what labor range should I expect for installation/alignment of this setup?

Thanks in advance for your input!
Bryan

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[CalvinT]

Before I make any mods to a vehicle I own I ask myself the following, "What potential problem will it solve? What defficency will it fix?" In other words, how are the factory parts lacking? How am I planning to use my vehicle where the factory configuration is inadequate? Do I have the skill to take advantage of the changes I'm planning?

Just becouse others are making the changes isn't a good enough answer. Too many people make changes because "that's what everyone else is doing."

I have made changes both to my WRX and to my Bronco, but only after a great deal of thought. My Subaru ended up staying mostly stock other than an engine tune and some details (urthane suspension parts, shift linkage, muffler among others). I kept the stock turbo and still can easily shut down a stock STI.

For my Bronco I've added, or am planning a rack, ditch lights, light bar, overhead molle rack, compressor, two Wavian cans, a few cosmetic details and above all else, a way to carry water. I'm leaving the power train and suspension stock. It will exceed my needs as is. Notice I didn't add a winch. Also I've found larger tires to be more of a bother than a solution.

For both vehicles all changes were made only after I identified the need through personal experience, experience of someone I knew, or the experience of someone with a documented track record. Very few were made at the suggestion of a shop, and those were relatively inexpensive and were made to solve an identified problem.

Before you make any changes, find someone who's made the change and ask they why they did it and how the change made a difference for them. Avoid the "placebo effect."

I bought my Badlands for overlanding and exploring backroads. It's more capable than I am. My previous three jobs required 4WD in mud, snow, mountain roads and sand and in all weather. In all I drove a 3/4 ton 4WD truck, Ford, Dodge and Chevy. I've had a blow out on a 40% slope (rock went through a sidewall) and had to get to level ground to replace the tire. I was almost always solo, with only a two way radio to call for assistence, which I never needed. I've never been rock crawling and don't intend to. I've never taken a route "just to prove I could do it."

Personally, given your intended use I wouldn't recommend any of your changes. I'm not saying your ideas are bad, I just don't see the need for them. In my opinion they're mostly "feel good" and cosmetics. You'll save thousands which can go toward gas.

Good luck finding a shop that meets your requirements. One way to test is to ask them about a certain part or "improvement" and see if they tell you that you don't need it. A shop should be able to precisely explain why you need the part or modification, why it's an improvement and the situation where it could help you. If they can't, don't get it, and don't use them.

Ask for a list of satisifed customers. Join local off road groups and find out who they use. Find out what kind of vehicles they've worked on. A good shop can and will save you money, but many are more sales driven. Also a good shop will listen to you without making you feel like an idiot if you have a bad idea.

 

[bfoster]

Excellent advice Calvin and I agree 100%. Do I need any of these things? Well of course not, like you, this vehicle is certainly more capable than I am.

My goal is to achieve "a" look while trying to be conservative, and keep the geometry right. Kind of OEM +. I don't want to cause too much extra stress on the various parts and I don't really want to lose the road manners the Bronco has. That's one of the things that lured me from Jeep honestly, that and the damn ducks

Is part of this for looks? Yep, but in the same breath I don't want to just throw on a cheap lift and bigger tires, it needs to walk the walk, not just talk the talk.

I appreciate your feedback and I know that you are correct, I don't need any of it but I do want it. I'm hoping that as you mentioned I will hear from others who have done the same or similar modifications and get their feedback on what worked and what didn't.

I'm already concerned that the +25 offset may be too conservative and may cause fitment issues so maybe a +18 would be a better compromise. I know a lot of people go 0 offset and even negative offset but everything I've read says that's just not a good long term idea.

Thanks again for your feedback and enjoy those AZ backroads! We're hoping to get out that way one of these days to explore.

 

[CalvinT]

Excellent advice Calvin and I agree 100%. Do I need any of these things? Well of course not, like you, this vehicle is certainly more capable than I am.

My goal is to achieve "a" look while trying to be conservative, and keep the geometry right. Kind of OEM +. I don't want to cause too much extra stress on the various parts and I don't really want to lose the road manners the Bronco has. That's one of the things that lured me from Jeep honestly, that and the damn ducks

Is part of this for looks? Yep, but in the same breath I don't want to just throw on a cheap lift and bigger tires, it needs to walk the walk, not just talk the talk.

I appreciate your feedback and I know that you are correct, I don't need any of it but I do want it. I'm hoping that as you mentioned I will hear from others who have done the same or similar modifications and get their feedback on what worked and what didn't.

I'm already concerned that the +25 offset may be too conservative and may cause fitment issues so maybe a +18 would be a better compromise. I know a lot of people go 0 offset and even negative offset but everything I've read says that's just not a good long term idea.

Thanks again for your feedback and enjoy those AZ backroads! We're hoping to get out that way one of these days to explore.

As long as you have a clear idea what you want and why, more power to you!!!

 

[Oldhippie]

While you have a pretty good list there, Broncos were made with 35”s in mind so really all your badlands needs is a 1/2”-1” spacer lift on the front and removal of crash bars to easily run those 35s…better coilovers are always a good idea for better ride/control and more lift will give ya more clearance on some hard parts so you do you…party on!

 

[bfoster]

While you have a pretty good list there, Broncos were made with 35”s in mind so really all your badlands needs is a 1/2”-1” spacer lift on the front and removal of crash bars to easily run those 35s…better coilovers are always a good idea for better ride/control and more lift will give ya more clearance on some hard parts so you do you…party on!

Also a good point and something I am actually considering, at least temporarily because I have no patience and I want my 35" tires back (still on the fence about the wheel offset).

So I may end up putting the Zone 2 Inch Lift Kit | Ford Bronco (Badlands and all Sasquatch-equipped) (21-26) on there to level it out and slightly lift it, remove the crash bars, install the new wheels and tires and then go from there. That shouldn't lift it enough to cause any issues with UCAs and it will give me plenty of room for the new tires.

So many decisions.. having real 1st World issues.

 

[CalvinT]

Wheel offset can increase loading on wheel bearings and will affect wheel alignment. It's more of a problem with RWD passenger cars.

 

[CDub from the OC]

Before I make any mods to a vehicle I own I ask myself the following, "What potential problem will it solve? What defficency will it fix?" In other words, how are the factory parts lacking? How am I planning to use my vehicle where the factory configuration is inadequate? Do I have the skill to take advantage of the changes I'm planning?

Just becouse others are making the changes isn't a good enough answer. Too many people make changes because "that's what everyone else is doing."

I have made changes both to my WRX and to my Bronco, but only after a great deal of thought. My Subaru ended up staying mostly stock other than an engine tune and some details (urthane suspension parts, shift linkage, muffler among others). I kept the stock turbo and still can easily shut down a stock STI.

For my Bronco I've added, or am planning a rack, ditch lights, light bar, overhead molle rack, compressor, two Wavian cans, a few cosmetic details and above all else, a way to carry water. I'm leaving the power train and suspension stock. It will exceed my needs as is. Notice I didn't add a winch. Also I've found larger tires to be more of a bother than a solution.

For both vehicles all changes were made only after I identified the need through personal experience, experience of someone I knew, or the experience of someone with a documented track record. Very few were made at the suggestion of a shop, and those were relatively inexpensive and were made to solve an identified problem.

Before you make any changes, find someone who's made the change and ask they why they did it and how the change made a difference for them. Avoid the "placebo effect."

I bought my Badlands for overlanding and exploring backroads. It's more capable than I am. My previous three jobs required 4WD in mud, snow, mountain roads and sand and in all weather. In all I drove a 3/4 ton 4WD truck, Ford, Dodge and Chevy. I've had a blow out on a 40% slope (rock went through a sidewall) and had to get to level ground to replace the tire. I was almost always solo, with only a two way radio to call for assistence, which I never needed. I've never been rock crawling and don't intend to. I've never taken a route "just to prove I could do it."

Personally, given your intended use I wouldn't recommend any of your changes. I'm not saying your ideas are bad, I just don't see the need for them. In my opinion they're mostly "feel good" and cosmetics. You'll save thousands which can go toward gas.

Good luck finding a shop that meets your requirements. One way to test is to ask them about a certain part or "improvement" and see if they tell you that you don't need it. A shop should be able to precisely explain why you need the part or modification, why it's an improvement and the situation where it could help you. If they can't, don't get it, and don't use them.

Ask for a list of satisifed customers. Join local off road groups and find out who they use. Find out what kind of vehicles they've worked on. A good shop can and will save you money, but many are more sales driven. Also a good shop will listen to you without making you feel like an idiot if you have a bad idea.

This is such great advice, that the OP should listen to!

I had similar plans when I got my Badlands/SAS. I took it to a hard core jeep shop in Carson City who had worked on quite a few Broncos as well. The owner and the lead mechanic went through the stock set up and told me the truck is capable of doing all but the most extreme parts of the Rubicon.

Being a beginner, they recommended I do none of my list which was much like the OP’s.

What he recommended instead was to join the local off-road clubs and get the basic equipment I’d need to get started:
Kinetic recovery rope
Tow strap
soft shackles
air down and up gear (went with Moorflate)
Recovery boards
Optional but nice: winch and tree saver.

I took his advice, saved thousands and thousands of dollars. And I quickly found out that the Badlands/SAS was WAAAAAAY more capable than I was.

 

[GreyZ]

Before I make any mods to a vehicle I own I ask myself the following, "What potential problem will it solve? What defficency will it fix?" In other words, how are the factory parts lacking? How am I planning to use my vehicle where the factory configuration is inadequate? Do I have the skill to take advantage of the changes I'm planning?

Just becouse others are making the changes isn't a good enough answer. Too many people make changes because "that's what everyone else is doing."

I have made changes both to my WRX and to my Bronco, but only after a great deal of thought. My Subaru ended up staying mostly stock other than an engine tune and some details (urthane suspension parts, shift linkage, muffler among others). I kept the stock turbo and still can easily shut down a stock STI.

For my Bronco I've added, or am planning a rack, ditch lights, light bar, overhead molle rack, compressor, two Wavian cans, a few cosmetic details and above all else, a way to carry water. I'm leaving the power train and suspension stock. It will exceed my needs as is. Notice I didn't add a winch. Also I've found larger tires to be more of a bother than a solution.

For both vehicles all changes were made only after I identified the need through personal experience, experience of someone I knew, or the experience of someone with a documented track record. Very few were made at the suggestion of a shop, and those were relatively inexpensive and were made to solve an identified problem.

Before you make any changes, find someone who's made the change and ask they why they did it and how the change made a difference for them. Avoid the "placebo effect."

I bought my Badlands for overlanding and exploring backroads. It's more capable than I am. My previous three jobs required 4WD in mud, snow, mountain roads and sand and in all weather. In all I drove a 3/4 ton 4WD truck, Ford, Dodge and Chevy. I've had a blow out on a 40% slope (rock went through a sidewall) and had to get to level ground to replace the tire. I was almost always solo, with only a two way radio to call for assistence, which I never needed. I've never been rock crawling and don't intend to. I've never taken a route "just to prove I could do it."

Personally, given your intended use I wouldn't recommend any of your changes. I'm not saying your ideas are bad, I just don't see the need for them. In my opinion they're mostly "feel good" and cosmetics. You'll save thousands which can go toward gas.

Good luck finding a shop that meets your requirements. One way to test is to ask them about a certain part or "improvement" and see if they tell you that you don't need it. A shop should be able to precisely explain why you need the part or modification, why it's an improvement and the situation where it could help you. If they can't, don't get it, and don't use them.

Ask for a list of satisifed customers. Join local off road groups and find out who they use. Find out what kind of vehicles they've worked on. A good shop can and will save you money, but many are more sales driven. Also a good shop will listen to you without making you feel like an idiot if you have a bad idea.

I have modified my non-sas badlands with a very similar approach in mind. I did the 4wp coilovers to gain some travel, but I actually went with slightly softer springs to keep the ride height (and CG) on 35s low. With IFS the ride height is pretty irrelevent until you are dragging front skids on stuff. What matters is the max droop and the max compression. I have a few threads on it going over the suspension stuff that are a good read. A 35x10.5 or 35x11.5 should fit on the OEM offset wheels and very minor lift adjustment on a badlandsss non-sas.

 

[CalvinT]

The owner and the lead mechanic went through the stock set up and told me the truck is capable of doing all but the most extreme parts of the Rubicon.

I think Ford took stock SAS Broncos over the Rubicon as part of their development program.

 

[N8do]

Be aware if you do the Zone 2 inch, you will have to disassemble the coil-overs and re index them. It will reduce suspension travel and droop with the collars. IMHO a 1 inch front level kit from Amazon, Rough Country or Motofab will do what you need for cheap and do it yourself. The BL package is pretty formidable as is.

I installed a Motofab on the front, and a Amazon, and partial Rough Country, on the rear to raise it 1 inch front and 1/2 inch rear on my BL Sas to give a bit more clearance and an option for 37s in the future. still has a 1/4 inch rake in the back for some weight squat.
Lifts are 2:1 ratio for the front and 1:1 ratio on the rear.

 

[Eric and Trail Dog PNW]

I have modified my non-sas badlands with a very similar approach in mind. I did the 4wp coilovers to gain some travel, but I actually went with slightly softer springs to keep the ride height (and CG) on 35s low. With IFS the ride height is pretty irrelevent until you are dragging front skids on stuff. What matters is the max droop and the max compression. I have a few threads on it going over the suspension stuff that are a good read. A 35x10.5 or 35x11.5 should fit on the OEM offset wheels and very minor lift adjustment on a badlandsss non-sas.

Good information on the OEM non-SAS wheels. I am 2.5“ lifted on Eibach HDs and plan to run 35/11.50’s on the stock wheel. just like how they look and want to keep my width narrow. Doesn’t look terrible with the stock BFG KO2’s.

 

[bfoster]

For the moment I swapped the wheels to something other than the stock. I just did not like the stock wheels at all. I ended up going a different direction from the Method MR305 17x8.5 +25 wheels I was looking at. While I didn't want to go super aggressive 0 or negative offset, +25 started sounding a bit too conservative. I ended up choosing Motegi Racing MR150 Trailite 17x8.5 +18.I think they look pretty good, they are much lighter than the stock wheels and seem to have a respectable reputation. Time will tell. This will at least hold me over for a little bit while I finalize my strategy.

 

[HalfmuleFarmer]

Wheel offset can increase loading on wheel bearings and will affect wheel alignment. It's more of a problem with RWD passenger cars.

Q: what difference in offset would you be worried about? Seems like a lot of SAS wheels folks go from OEM wheels that are +30 to aftermarket wheels that are 0mm offset (ET0) — would you be concerned about this ‘increase load’ on the bearings and alignment issues, or not?

 

[CalvinT]

Q: what difference in offset would you be worried about? Seems like a lot of SAS wheels folks go from OEM wheels that are +30 to aftermarket wheels that are 0mm offset (ET0) — would you be concerned about this ‘increase load’ on the bearings and alignment issues, or not?

I don't know. I haven't researched it because I'm using stock wheels. If I did to change wheels ( Method 707 Bead Grip) I'd do my research. But... Anyone changing offset should do their homework.

There's an alignment specification called camber. It's normally set so the center of rotation of your ball joints points close to the center of your tire contact patch. The amount of difference in centers is called scrub. It can vary some depending on vehicle design and affects steering effort and straight ahead stability. It may be necessary to use different than factory camber settings if changing wheel offset. A good alignment shop will know.

You'll see offset changes with larger tires. For example non SAS Broncos have +55mm offset. SAS Broncos have +30mm. This helps keep loading centered above the axle bearing. SAS wheels are 8.5 inches wide, others are 7.5-8 inches wide. This minimizes scrub and loading on steering gear.

Offset and width move the wheel centerilne. Besides affecting tire scrub they also affect wheel bearing loading. Ideally the wheel centerline will pass through the center of the wheel bearings. Too much offset can affect bearling loads so the inside bearing gets more downward loading and the outer bearing gets more upward loading. Probablly not a problem with Broncos. This is a real factor when people start putting wheels with extreme offsets on passenger cars. Think about some low riders. They often have an extreme offset. Front wheel bearings of RWD cars have a different design and extreme offsets can accelerate bearing wear besides affecing steering response. Extreme offset doesn't affect bearing wear on rear axles of RWD cars.

I invite comments to help clarify.

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