Looked everywhere - constant power in Body Control Module

[alfiefmc]

Thanks @sportcoupe - I am connecting a hardwire kit for dashcam, so I am looking for a "constant on" for the parking mode AND an "ignition on only" position for regular record operation. Both will carry a 5A fuse. I was planning on using the "not used" positions if I could find one of each. I broke down today and went to harbor frieght and purchased a $4 12V tester with does the trick! I will definitely check 30. Thanks!

Hey, I am trying to hardwire a dashcam myself, which fuses did you tap into for ignition and constant. Does everything work like it's supposed too? The Parking mode function is the most important one for me. I just want to make sure I'm doing it the right way. Thank you for your help in advance.

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[murrman]

Hey, I am trying to hardwire a dashcam myself, which fuses did you tap into for ignition and constant. Does everything work like it's supposed too? The Parking mode function is the most important one for me. I just want to make sure I'm doing it the right way. Thank you for your help in advance.

Were you ever able to find a fuse that is confirmed to be always on? I'm having issues finding one for my dash cam's parking mode. Some seem to turn off after an extended period of time, even if they're labeled as constant.

 

[Brian_B]

Can always go back to the battery for a for-sure constant on. There are upfitter wires already run through the firewall, so don't even need to do anything other than provide a fused lead to connect to the battery and splice a few existing runs together. These wires are present even if you don't have upfitter switches

Connect a fused lead to wire C and wire it to a (+) battery terminal, splice that to one of the B's, splice that to D, and you are up by the visor on the passenger side ready to come right over to the rearview mirror area with full time power. Don't have to use all those wires together, like if you wanted to come up the driver's side instead of passenger, just splice your own wire in, or trim thea B wire back. But ... they are already there.

Or run your own wire to save the pre-runs for other things, getting through the firewall isn't too terribly difficult, especially if you are talking only 5A.

This drawing shows the location, but not the color codes - I would have to dig that up

 

[stewart.chrisr]

Were you ever able to find a fuse that is confirmed to be always on? I'm having issues finding one for my dash cam's parking mode. Some seem to turn off after an extended period of time, even if they're labeled as constant.

This is exactly what I’m finding. Whatever fuse I used seems to drop power after being parked for some period of time, even though it is not changed by ignition. If the door is open, the Bronco seems to wake up the circuit and it always tests fine. But my dashcam keeps losing power. I’d love if someone knows that a certain fuse can be tapped and be ALWAYS on. I don’t really want to run a direct wire if I can avoid it.

 

[WillinMA]

This is from the Brandmotion rearview mirror installation. Both constant and ignition fuses under the steering wheel.

 

[MontelG]

This is exactly what I’m finding. Whatever fuse I used seems to drop power after being parked for some period of time, even though it is not changed by ignition. If the door is open, the Bronco seems to wake up the circuit and it always tests fine. But my dashcam keeps losing power. I’d love if someone knows that a certain fuse can be tapped and be ALWAYS on. I don’t really want to run a direct wire if I can avoid it.

Did you find a solution to this? I’m in the same situation right now.

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