Which aftermarket bumpers to consider - kinetic recovery/strength concerns

[twvette]

Been researching a bit but maybe looking in wrong places or not sure many consider/do this. New to Broncos and trying to get up to speed also. Had a very expensive aftermarket metal bumper on my 2500 RAM a while back and I remember the "very beefy looking" clevis mounts on it were only tied to the metal plating so not really meant to be a recovery point and it basically deleted my factory tow hooks that were to the frame, so was a major downgrade for recovery. I assume this is similar on most aftermarket Bronco bumpers? Or are some heavily reinforced/frame tied and just need some frame horn reinfocement (I have read up on that a bit)? In other words, what are people doing for recoveries front and rear with aftermarket bumpers and any aftermarket bumpers really meant for this or just use other stronger points? I am looking at the Turn Offroad winch bumper currently and seems to have some frame horn integrated, but not sure if that is good enough or if others that are better tied to frame. I realize they are some situations not to use kinetic as done a lot of recoveries of stuck trucks and extemely heavy motorhomes buried to frame in the sand. No I am not trying to recover motorhomes with the Bronco haha. Trying not to be the next video of a bumper coming detached or damaging one from a recovery LOL.

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[Thatguylegit69]

I thought the stock modular & capable bumber tow points were fixed on the front of the frame. I could be misremembering that.
I know some aftermarket bumpers do have tow points fixed on the frame, so check those.

Rear recovery, im ver fucking skeptical, after watching some dude use a Clevis and Kinetic rope on his ball hitch, which slingshot into the rear vehicle, killing the driver.
Either use frame mounted stuff, or a rear hitch with a welded in recovery ring. Ive seen those before. You should use a buffer pin for it, but if the ring meets it's breaking point, it won't launch into your skull, but rather just hit the ground with how it's configured.

I'll see if I can find the link for it.

 

[twvette]

I thought the stock modular & capable bumber tow points were fixed on the front of the frame. I could be misremembering that.
I know some aftermarket bumpers do have tow points fixed on the frame, so check those.

Rear recovery, im ver fucking skeptical, after watching some dude use a Clevis and Kinetic rope on his ball hitch, which slingshot into the rear vehicle, killing the driver.
Either use frame mounted stuff, or a rear hitch with a welded in recovery ring. Ive seen those before. You should use a buffer pin for it, but if the ring meets it's breaking point, it won't launch into your skull, but rather just hit the ground with how it's configured.

I'll see if I can find the link for it.

Thanks for the input, this prompted me to do some more digging too and its like a flash back to the last aftermarket metal bumper I purchased LOL ...

I watched some install videos and the capable/modular bumper hooks are a direct mount to the frame horn. This is more similar to diesel trucks that we have used multiple trucks to pull a single stuck truck out from the their front hooks that have a 20k lb plus fith wheel trailer attached to it burried in sand with kinetic and we dont break or mess up anything for recovery. You would have to rip multiple bolt heads off or pull many bolts large bolts out of the threads as they are in line with the pulling force, which seems to be the key to allowing this.

The aftermarket bumper install I watched uses a T bracket (and not an extremly thick one) to attach to the same point, but the bolts that actually hold the new bumper on are perpendicular to the pulling force and thus you are basically pulling "through" a single sheet of metal on each side in a recovery. The clevis mounts are close to the mount bracket on the one I watched (so that is good), but much further out form the frame itself so a lot more side load stress on that bracket for sure too if at any angle. I now see why the bumpers come flying off in some videos as the bracket could essentially just knive though the bolts when pulled hard/quick. Yikes!

I think this just confirms I wont be using an aftermarket bumper clevis/hook for recovery unless find one that mounts more direct to the frame horn with forward facing bolts or very thick/multiple brackets. Will continue the search to see what I find ...

Never attach to any hitch ball for recovery!!! They are meant for vertical load, not side load from a strap which creates a sling shot and thus becomes a cannon ball as you mention. One of the incidents that got a lot of attention more recently and probably the one you are tlaking about was close to me. We use our diesel truck hitches, but with with a dedicated clevis/shackle mount in it to do kinetic extractions from the rear to 60k lb plus motorhomes burried in the sand (not recommended at all ... but we know the limits/what needs to be done to slowly extract them) attached to the motorhome frame.

 

[Thatguylegit69]

Thanks for the input, this prompted me to do some more digging too and its like a flash back to the last aftermarket metal bumper I purchased LOL ...

I watched some install videos and the capable/modular bumper hooks are a direct mount to the frame horn. This is more similar to diesel trucks that we have used multiple trucks to pull a single stuck truck out from the their front hooks that have a 20k lb plus fith wheel trailer attached to it burried in sand with kinetic and we dont break or mess up anything for recovery. You would have to rip multiple bolt heads off or pull many bolts large bolts out of the threads as they are in line with the pulling force, which seems to be the key to allowing this.

The aftermarket bumper install I watched uses a T bracket (and not an extremly thick one) to attach to the same point, but the bolts that actually hold the new bumper on are perpendicular to the pulling force and thus you are basically pulling "through" a single sheet of metal on each side in a recovery. The clevis mounts are close to the mount bracket on the one I watched (so that is good), but much further out form the frame itself so a lot more side load stress on that bracket for sure too if at any angle. I now see why the bumpers come flying off in some videos as the bracket could essentially just knive though the bolts when pulled hard/quick. Yikes!

I think this just confirms I wont be using an aftermarket bumper clevis/hook for recovery unless find one that mounts more direct to the frame horn with forward facing bolts or very thick/multiple brackets. Will continue the search to see what I find ...

Never attach to any hitch ball for recovery!!! They are meant for vertical load, not side load from a strap which creates a sling shot and thus becomes a cannon ball as you mention. One of the incidents that got a lot of attention more recently and probably the one you are tlaking about was close to me. We use our diesel truck hitches, but with with a dedicated clevis/shackle mount in it to do kinetic extractions from the rear to 60k lb plus motorhomes burried in the sand (not recommended at all ... but we know the limits/what needs to be done to slowly extract them) attached to the motorhome frame.

If its not the same incident, I wouldn't be shocked. People just think they know the basic and nothing bad happens.
It was in Central-ish Arizona, after the washboards got flooded. Driver (recovered vehicle) killed with kinetic rope and ball hitch, 8y/o son & 11y/o daughter (I think) sitting next to him as it happened. Driver (recover operator) gassed it hard with extreme slack still in the kinetic rope.
Very sad for all involved.

 

[Fordified1]

Been researching a bit but maybe looking in wrong places or not sure many consider/do this. New to Broncos and trying to get up to speed also. Had a very expensive aftermarket metal bumper on my 2500 RAM a while back and I remember the "very beefy looking" clevis mounts on it were only tied to the metal plating so not really meant to be a recovery point and it basically deleted my factory tow hooks that were to the frame, so was a major downgrade for recovery. I assume this is similar on most aftermarket Bronco bumpers? Or are some heavily reinforced/frame tied and just need some frame horn reinfocement (I have read up on that a bit)? In other words, what are people doing for recoveries front and rear with aftermarket bumpers and any aftermarket bumpers really meant for this or just use other stronger points? I am looking at the Turn Offroad winch bumper currently and seems to have some frame horn integrated, but not sure if that is good enough or if others that are better tied to frame. I realize they are some situations not to use kinetic as done a lot of recoveries of stuck trucks and extemely heavy motorhomes buried to frame in the sand. No I am not trying to recover motorhomes with the Bronco haha. Trying not to be the next video of a bumper coming detached or damaging one from a recovery LOL.

My concerns were as much because we flat-tow with a towbar behind our motorhome and have seen front bumpers ripped off towed vehicles when driving over transitions entering parking lots etc, so I have a Fab Fours stubby winch bumper that has extra plates that go under the frame which add 4 extra bolts up through the bottom plus the LOD frame horn angle brackets that add another 4 bolts through the sides of the frame. The recovery clevis brackets go through the thick structure and are welded on inside and outside and tie into where the structure ties into the frame horns. I’m a certified welder with over 40 years experience and was very pleased with this bumper’s structural integrity.

On the rear, My black diamond has a factory recovery loop bolted to the bottom of the rear frame rail. I will eventually replace the rear bumper also. I’

 

[Gluestick]

ADD Rock Fighter uses the three bolts per side into the OEM frame bumper face plates, plus another with a bracket that connects to frame with a bolt from below. Added the ADD frame horn reinforcements so the bumper bolts go through them and the factory bumper face plates into the bumper, and are bolted to the frame at the sides. Seems beefy enough for me.

 

[RoseLane4]

VEHICLE RECOVERY needs to be very respected!!! NEVER use a ball hitch or an open “hook” type strap!!

Never attach to suspension! Only frame mounted attachment points that clearly aren’t damaged.

Please research and/or practice with experienced individuals that are educated in recovery!

Use quality, “load appropriate” clevis/d-shackles. If you’re going to use synthetic “soft shackles”, be sure they’re not frayed or damaged and of quality.

For these “after market” bumpers, again quality prevails. The attachment points on these bumpers are designed (again, on quality products) for recovery. (Avoid extreme side-angle pulls and similar; straight line pull if possible.) exceeding the “shear strength” of 3/8” steel is unlikely.

Always error on the side of caution - NO bystanders or onlookers within the recovery area!

As you wrote above.. people die from careless & avoidable situations.

 

[RoseLane4]

Videos & practice:

https://www.safe-xtract.com/about/

 

[twvette]

Thanks for the pic as many don't show the inside. That is mounted and reinfoced much better!

 

[twvette]

ADD Rock Fighter uses the three bolts per side into the OEM frame bumper face plates, plus another with a bracket that connects to frame with a bolt from below. Added the ADD frame horn reinforcements so the bumper bolts go through them and the factory bumper face plates into the bumper, and are bolted to the frame at the sides. Seems beefy enough for me.

Mount pic looks much better too, and have been lookign at ADD. The video link is a good watch/refresher also ...

 

[twvette]

I spent WAY too many hours looking at bumpers to try and make an educated decision. So, figured would summarize what I found ... just my .02

My choices ended up rather limited as had some specific requirements for not only what looked like good recovery strength but also winch required, not detract much if any from approach angles, something not too heavy, and something I thought looked good too.

Some I immediately eliminated that were built out of 11ga or similar metal as too thin for me. Most are listed as 7ga , 3/16in, or 4-5mm thick metal which are all close to the same.

Several of the propular brands are made in China. Obviosuly prefer USA made but very hard to keep price low if so. In the end, I leaned heavily towards US made for the front bumper as it would be most likely to be the extraction point in most recoveries and obviously for using a winch. Still not sure this is really a proper consideration as found a couple lets say "bad video results" of US made ones too.

Few actually show how they are built on the inside of the bumper so reviewed countless random videos to try and figure that out too. Not sure if this is intentional or not , but even those who found looked very strong and well thought out don't market or talk about this so its very frustating research.

For winch mount location I realized one that sits partially down in the bumper is likely the best for strength. The winch mount plate on most ties the two recovery points together the best it seems so it is basically a gusset. Hidden winch would take away from approach angles on most and one that sits up high on top of the bumper would need to have significant additional reinforcement to hold well it seems.

Glad doing a lot of research as also stumbled on the fact that the Bronco frame horns (and perhaps related hardware) are not up to par and will likely fail as fast if not quicker than most the the bumper out there so should address this too for tough recoveries, winching, and flat towing.

Here is where my thoughts ended up on my top five front bumper options for me:

1. Custom local made - there are talented people close to me who do bumpers and would have been best way to define what material to use and could make it stupid strong and take care of any other frame horn reinforcing too. Would be expensive if doing a lot for just "looks" which is basically a lot of extra plating and welding. Long lead times (but so are many of the US company made bumpers) but could still get something rather nice and basic that would be great for similar or less than many of the US made ones. I also don't have front parking sensors (FYI caught me by surprise me ... I have all major options except Lux including rear parking sensors) neverless adaptive cruise so without these is much easier job for them and install. I just did not want another "project" to get this done as working on multiple projects currently.
2. Hefty Fabworks - they were one of only a couple who have exactly what I was wanting with the recovery points being direct frame mounted and looks good too. It got a bit too pricey especially since it did not seem to go well with the factory skid plate and adding theirs put it a good bit more than wanted plus then need to get it painted/powdered on my own when recieve it. Lightweight, good approach angles, US made and was very close to just going with this one.
3. CBI - This is what I went with as it checked all the boxes essentuially and was a bit different look I wanted to try. The recovery points are not direct but I liked how they are tied into the winch plate in essentially a perfect "cross" brace centered between the frame horn mount (did not se ethis on others) to help with direct and lateral forces I think. I also really liked how their winch plate is competely seperate from the "bumper" and thus is easily accessible. If I dont like anything I see when get it I can weld in additional support very easily. Makes install of bumper and winch very easy too. The bumper part is then one full length piece (not two modular side pieces) bolted into the winch plate with its mount points centered around the recovery points also. This should help to share some of the forces directly where wanted at recovery points also I think. It weights only one pound more than stock capable bumper. US made and a little lower cost than many (but they do have a high shipping cost and powder is an add on so gets up there) plus 4th of July sale and discount code helped a little. Leightweight, good approach angles, and mid mount winch plate helped. 12 week lead time ... ouch ... I lack patience lol!
4. SVC Baja Winch - was another essentially direct mount frame horn recovery bumper I was considering and a tubular style somewhat like the CBI.
5. DV8 Spec series - seems built well from what I could see and great price. I really was very close to just buying this one as in stock ready to ship too and thought looked good. China built.

I went with the Maximus-3 Frame Horn reinforcement brackets after researching this related topic too. I liked that is super beefy 1/4in, replaces the stock nut plate, and should be no concerns of it bolting up form what read and priced middle of the pack. You want to do this when have the front bumper off already. Shipped day after buying it.

For a rear bumper I went with DV8 Tube style as look will go well with the CBI I think. Bought a Curt tow hitch to be installed too when do this bumper. Will use the hitch for light recovery as it has limited attachment points and/or maybe keep a frame mounted point like has stock so should be good here to likely not use the rear bumper (like on any vehicle).

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