Door Skin Adhesive Failure - Hollow Sound When Closing

[itwelder]

Thought I would see if anyone else notices this.

On my 25 4dr Badlands, a couple months after I bought it, the doors developed a distinct 'empty tin can' sound when you shut them.
On my 25 2dr, today I noticed it made the same sound on the Passenger side - which was heating up in the sun (black color).
So I looked inside the doors, and discovered that the adhesive used to bond the door skin to the impact bar had separated. Out of 6 doors, only the driver door on the 2dr is still attached, and it closes with a solid thud.

Anyone else get that hollow tin can sound when closing their doors?

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[zebrex]

How can you tell that the skin has pulled away from the impact bar? Where do you look? Dont into the window down area? My driverside door also makes this sound

 

[Motovita]

I have the same Bronco, the doors have always sounded different than any vehicle I've ever owned, it's hard to describe, but it's not a satisfying thunk like other vehicles doors. They all sound the same though so I figure that's just the way they are.

 

[TX-Dennis]

Mine have always sounded hollowish. I thought it was just the lightweight nature of the removable doors. Jeep doors sound pretty janky, too.

 

[GreyZ]

This is interesting. First time I have seen this mentioned, but one of my doors has always sounded different than the other three when closing. Almost more "tinny". How did you diagnose? Or did you removed the door card and inner panel?

 

[itwelder]

Roll the window all the way down and lift up the Glass Run from the back, being careful not to detach the front. Apply slow upward force at the back edge, and it will lift up. You only need to lift it an inch or two. Move it slightly to the side, and you can look straight down and see the adhesive / impact bar. Push the Glass Run down slowly but firmly to re-seat it when done.
Here is a picture of my only door that is not fully detached yet, and one that is separated. Arrow is view angle.

 

[Eldowerks]

Ok, now need to determine the best way to get at the door skin/crashbar junction to re-adhere….
Hopefully there’s a good shot at it with the door card removed and the window rolled up.
I’ve used Franklin TiteBond gun adhesive to good effect with metals in the construction business, but never on an automobile.

 

[itwelder]

I'm still trying to figure out what adhesive is used, and if it is structural - I don't think it is just from how little is used.
You can easily access the area by removing the door panel and splash shield.

On my 2 door, the adhesive kind of 'split' down the middle, it was easy to see.

On the 4 door, the adhesive detached from the door skin, and at first it looks good, but if you push lightly on the outside of the door you can easily see that it separated.

Also be careful when inspecting 4-doors, you should pop this rubber thingy out (in this pic) before lifting the Glass Run, or you'll tear the thin rubber piece. No major damage if you don't but if you're like me it will annoy you. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[23OBX2.7]

I did sound deadener on metal skins and Resonix Black absorber on plastic panel inner faces doors close with a thud.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

If you pull your door panels I’d recommend doing what @23OBX2.7 did while you’re in there. I didn’t do the back of the plastic panels like they did but applied a dynamat type product to the door skin metal and no more popping but a nice thud.

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