Ultimate Oil, Oil filter, Weights, Additives and so much more.

[Bradley Thornton]

Ok, some will be data and some will be my opinion, I'm going to give my opinion first to save the person that just wants an quick answer a ton of time.

My opinion
(If you ask me why on my opinion please look at the data first then ask)
On break in (New Car) change oil like every 3000 mile for first 9-10k, Mobil 1 oil and filter is a great and safe go to (Always fill oil filter with oil before install). (2nd choice on oil is Pins oil ultra platinum) (2nd filter K&N) Run 5-30 never use additives except for fuel and do that at least once a year, I'm a Lucas or Chevron fuel treatment guy. If you drive a good amount of mile per 10k miles change oil every 10k. If you drive short miles often like say mostly city maybe every 5k-7,500 miles (due Turbo oil heat soak). Outside oil filter magnet I'm a fan on high hp cars and can't hurt and I recommend if running a K&N filter or 30 micron. Never go cheap on filter or oil (Never)

Now for data I'm going to share some videos (Not mine) with a ton of real world data. I did this research years ago and knew all this but the oil additive info that was new info/data for me. After my Ultimate battery write up I thought videos may help vs my bad spelling and grammar lol.

On break in change oil like every 3000 mile for first 9-10k,


Reason for 5-30, 0-30 is better for fuel and better oil but if it gets out of specs is way worse and not worth the risk. Graph at 6:21min


Reason for Mobil 1
(No perfect oil but per $ and good oil I like Mobil 1) (reason for sooner oil changes Turbo soak)(You can skip to 25:00 if you don't care about nothing but raw data) You may like Pins oil ultra platinum better


Oil Filter
(I fill like this one is harder to understand do to so much info its just a lot so I'm going to try and explain some first) Then give the data so you will know what to look for and why.
Worst thing that can happen is bypass fails so no cheap brand bypass filters. This then takes you to micron many are going to say 20 is better than 30 but if your pressure gets to low due to filter being stopped up it bypasses then all solids go in motor. Ford says 20-30 micron is fine. Must have anti drain back valve 99% do in todays world but you also want it to be silicone. Personally I also think the media needs to be a synthetic blend or synthetic.

Not in the data but Toyota makes a great filter.

Real world test.


Explain Bypass


Ton of data and info To be clear I disagree with this guy a good bit but you get what you want from it. (I gave you my opinion in the beginning and you seen real world test above)


Additives (I said no to oil additives but times to use motor knocking and trying to just make it home add Lucas, Lifter sticking add Marvel but only run marvel till lifter comes unstuck then change oil)


My opinion
Radiator stop leak and flush and head gasket repair (Just say no)
Never use this just buy new radiator why it will also stop up your engine water ports, heater core, or flush is a band-aid just replace. Head gasket repair bad idea same reason but if you do it change oil as soon as fixed due to bad for the oil.

Real world data


Again I say never but I want to give more info.


Oil filter magnet real world data


Little bonus I run Valvoline VR1 10-30in my race car/street car K&N filter with 2 magnets

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[CalvinT]

Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (same as Holt's Radweld) is an excellent stop leak. It works and will not clog up your cooling passages. Up until then I never trusted a stop leak. All the ones I saw previously looked like they could clog passages.

I've used it, it sealed a crack in the upper tank and a hole the size of a paper clip wire. Also there was no sign of clogging when I took the radiator apart later. That was back around 2004 or 2005 (replaced radiator). I'm still driving the same Subaru with no problems. Heater works great.

 

[DC1]

Always fill oil filter with oil before install?? Not possible on a 2.7 for sure.

 

[CalvinT]

(Always fill oil filter with oil before install).

This guy isn't thinking things through completely.

There are some cars where the oil filter points down when installed. The filter is on top of the engine (many Subarus starting around 2011. There are others). Such filters have a check valve to keep them from draining when the engine is shut off. Others are mounted sideways.

He should have said, "let the engine idle until the oil pressure/engine light goes out" then wait a few seconds longer. I stopped going to one of the oil change places because they'd immediately rev the engine after doing the fill. I asked them about it, they said, "to check the oil filter gasket for leaks."

There are a couple of problems with that practice.
1. engine is starved for oil until the filter is filled.
2. oil pumps have a pressure release valve to limit oil pressure to a certain value. That keeps seals and gaskets from being blown out. Revving the engine doesn't increase oil pressure, it just forces it to build quicker.

 

[Bradley Thornton]

Always fill oil filter with oil before install?? Not possible on a 2.7 for sure.

This is true with many engines. If you watch the video he says that and points out you should when possible. Common sense comes in to play at some point.

They make an adaptor for my 302. This guy shows how to turn it over without start to get oil in filter to keep from dry start.

To get to turn over engine with out start go to 9:35 min

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